series 2 fitted with a 2.5 tds bmw p38

wammers said:

If it's got a few miles on it go to 10W40 semi synthetic. You need some synthetic in to cope with heat from turbo. Fully synthetic is overkill at the price and i think diesel engine oil and filter should be changed twice as often as specified. 5W30 is ok if you live in Alaska, no good for here and a older engine with miles on it. You can try sticking a can of STP or Wynns in with next change that will do some good.

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I think for I ll see how it go with more wind cooling the job and if I'm still not over happy I ll try a thicker grade of oil . I know the bottom end is good I've had the big ends off they are in great shape very little in the way off any tell tale signs of abuse and the guy I got the engine off was fanatical about oil changes on the dot and it only 130000 miles on it .

wammers said:

If it's got a few miles on it go to 10W40 semi synthetic. You need some synthetic in to cope with heat from turbo. Fully synthetic is overkill at the price and i think diesel engine oil and filter should be changed twice as often as specified. 5W30 is ok if you live in Alaska, no good for here and a older engine with miles on it. You can try sticking a can of STP or Wynns in with next change that will do some good.

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It's semi synthetic 10/30 Mobil i think it was I won't use the halfords or other shop branded unless it going in the tractor gearbox .

wammers said:

If it's got a few miles on it go to 10W40 semi synthetic. You need some synthetic in to cope with heat from turbo. Fully synthetic is overkill at the price and i think diesel engine oil and filter should be changed twice as often as specified. 5W30 is ok if you live in Alaska, no good for here and a older engine with miles on it. You can try sticking a can of STP or Wynns in with next change that will do some good.

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. Well I must admit not everything the manufacturer specifies is the best I tend to stick with a good oil and change every 5000 unless I've been towing a lot then ill change it at 40000ish . And while old oil is hot the chassis gets a good coating of it inside and out and bulkhead gets a liberal coat too to keep the metal maggots away.

Dean Whittam said:

. Well I must admit not everything the manufacturer specifies is the best I tend to stick with a good oil and change every 5000 unless I've been towing a lot then ill change it at 40000ish . And while old oil is hot the chassis gets a good coating of it inside and out and bulkhead gets a liberal coat too to keep the metal maggots away.

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Old school rust proofing was 50/50 old engine oil and paraffin. Worked well if done regularly. 5 W 30 5 W 40 is only recommended were temps go down to -30 degrees. In our climate 10 w 30 or 10 W 40 is what to go for which is in the -10 to +30 degrees range. On an engine that has done some miles i would say 40 is better than 30. Handles the heat better when tolerances maybe growing due to slight wear. And as said, a can of STP does no harm at all on each oil change. Gives a little bit of help to todays low Zinc oils.

wammers said:

Old school rust proofing was 50/50 old engine oil and paraffin. Worked well if done regularly. 5 W 30 5 W 40 is only recommended were temps go down to -30 degrees. In our climate 10 w 30 or 10 W 40 is what to go for which is in the -10 to +30 degrees range. On an engine that has done some miles i would say 40 is better than 30. Handles the heat better when tolerances maybe growing due to slight wear. And as said, a can of STP does no harm at all on each oil change. Gives a little bit of help to todays low Zinc oils.

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Well it's something to keep in mind but I ll do the heat related stuff first because if we ever have a hot summer I can see it being a problem and it can only be beneficial in the long run .

Dean Whittam said:

Well it's something to keep in mind but I ll do the heat related stuff first because if we ever have a hot summer I can see it being a problem and it can only be beneficial in the long run .

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Hot summer? You wish.

wammers said:

Hot summer? You wish.

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I can live in hope can't I .

Here's one my bmw m51 VE pump . It's starts first turn runs bob on but it's decided it doesn't want to settle back down to idle it lingers around 1200 to 1500 rpm and will stay there but if I put a load on to it it drops to idle right away . Anything under or over the 12 to 1500 range it's fine . Also if you let it overun going downhill it does again and only between 12 and 1500 cold or hot it makes no difference .and also you turn it off and keeps running although not as sweet but if you press the accelerator it cuts out . Could it be a tiny air leak or is more likely pump body pressure ?? Any advice would be gratefully received .The pump has only done 17000 since it was rebuilt .

Looks an excellent conversion by all accounts. Any more detailed pictures of the installation?
I wonder also what the BMW flywheel bolt PCD is, and how it compares to the 8x79mm of a 300 Tdi, I would agree a 2.5 diesel backplate is easier to mount on the BMW block (flat front face that the Tdi one doesn't have) but if the Tdi flywheel is the same PCD it would make the job a little easier.

Very nice job.