Rusty Bolts

P

puffernutter

Guest

• Oct 5, 2006

• #1

In about 10 days I will be replacing the rear cross member on my 110
CSW.

It is one with extensions, so I have a number of rusty bolts (and nuts)
to take out (including a towbar).

Some are sacrificial and will be removed with an angle grinder (e.g.
those holding the tub at the back), for others they will need to be
saved.

For these latter ones, what are the groups recommendations for a
penetrant to get in there and make my life a little easier?

Cheers

Peter

 

W

William Tasso

Guest

• Oct 5, 2006

• #2

On Thu, 05 Oct 2006 09:35:24 +0100, puffernutter
<[email protected]> wrote:

> ...
> recommendations for a
> penetrant to get in there and make my life a little easier?

Plus Gas

--
William Tasso

Land Rover - 110 V8
Discovery - V8

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Oct 5, 2006

• #3

puffernutter wrote:
> In about 10 days I will be replacing the rear cross member on my 110
> CSW.
>
> It is one with extensions, so I have a number of rusty bolts (and nuts)
> to take out (including a towbar).
>
> Some are sacrificial and will be removed with an angle grinder (e.g.
> those holding the tub at the back), for others they will need to be
> saved.
>
> For these latter ones, what are the groups recommendations for a
> penetrant to get in there and make my life a little easier?

Heat - nothing in the way of liquid penetrants comes close to the
application of the blue-tongued lizard (oxy-acetylene torch) when it
comes to recalcitrant bolts.


--
EMB

 

G

Geoff

Guest

• Oct 5, 2006

• #4

In article <[email protected]>,
"puffernutter" <[email protected]> wrote:

> For these latter ones, what are the groups recommendations for a
> penetrant to get in there and make my life a little easier?

Not sure about the 110 but when I did the one on my 90 the biggest PITA
was the wiring loom, beware the heat.

--

Cheers, Geoff.
www.anoraks.uk.net

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Oct 5, 2006

• #5

William Tasso <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> On Thu, 05 Oct 2006 09:35:24 +0100, puffernutter
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> ...
>> recommendations for a
>> penetrant to get in there and make my life a little easier?
>
> Plus Gas

Seconeded , or diesel if you can't get any.

Lee D

 

G

Greg

Guest

• Oct 5, 2006

• #6

"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Heat - nothing in the way of liquid penetrants comes close to the
> application of the blue-tongued lizard (oxy-acetylene torch) when it
> comes to recalcitrant bolts.

But what do you do when you can't use oxy because it's alloy?, I have a
filler plug on the transfer box that's well stuck and no liquid I've tried
has made the slightest difference, nor those expensive freezer sprays, nor
every mechanical means I can come up with. It's the only plug on the whole
vehicle that's defeated me!.

Greg

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Oct 5, 2006

• #7

Greg wrote:

> But what do you do when you can't use oxy because it's alloy?, I have a
> filler plug on the transfer box that's well stuck and no liquid I've tried
> has made the slightest difference, nor those expensive freezer sprays, nor
> every mechanical means I can come up with. It's the only plug on the whole
> vehicle that's defeated me!.
>
> Greg
>
>
Careful heat - applied to the aluminium section. With the thermal
expansion rate of aluminium you don't need to get it very hot to start
things loosening up.

--
EMB

 

S

SimonJ

Guest

• Oct 6, 2006

• #8

> But what do you do when you can't use oxy because it's alloy?
>
You can use oxy on it, you would have to be being pretty careless to melt
the casing.


>, I have a
> filler plug on the transfer box that's well stuck and no liquid I've tried
> has made the slightest difference, nor those expensive freezer sprays, nor
> every mechanical means I can come up with. It's the only plug on the whole
> vehicle that's defeated me!.
>
Get a big nut, and weld it through the hole onto the plug. The heat will
break the plug loose, and you then have a big nut to grip it with.