Rr Diff noise

D

D

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #1

My 94 Rangie ran low in rear diff oil recently. It now has a droning noise
that my non landy mechanic believes is the diff, and he tells me that a
landy mechanic checked it and it is really not to bad.
It has an occasional clunk and vibration now when hot, at times this is
matched by road speed, which they believe could be the UJ on the prop
shafts.

Is there an easy way to check the UJ's and if so can I isolate the problem
to the diff?

If it is the diff would slick 50 and thicker oil help, as it drives smoothly
when cold, do the diffs have bearings that could be damaged?

Is replacing a diff a difficult or costly job and could it be done at home?

Thanks

Dave

 

S

SimonJ

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #2

> Is there an easy way to check the UJ's and if so can I isolate the problem
> to the diff?
>
Try moving them up and down, if they have no play, they are OK.
Have they been regularly greased?

> Is replacing a diff a difficult or costly job and could it be done at
home?
>
Pretty easy job, especially the rear diff.

Unbolt propshaft.
remove both halfshafts
Unbolt diff and remove.(very heavy!)

Assemble in reverse order.

 

D

D

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #3

They have not been regularly greased, but have been recently and this
possibly made it worse????

Will a recon dif have the outer casing and pinion bearing replaced or is it
simply the guts (I have not done this before, so don't know what to expect).

Any special tools or techniques needed before I tackle this on Sunday. I
plan to remove both prop shafts and test them by vigorous wiggling and
shaking.

Then try the same with the diff input flange and rear wheels.

And if this shows nothing then the diff will be removed

Dave
"SimonJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Is there an easy way to check the UJ's and if so can I isolate the
problem
> > to the diff?
> >
> Try moving them up and down, if they have no play, they are OK.
> Have they been regularly greased?
>
> > Is replacing a diff a difficult or costly job and could it be done at
> home?
> >
> Pretty easy job, especially the rear diff.
>
> Unbolt propshaft.
> remove both halfshafts
> Unbolt diff and remove.(very heavy!)
>
> Assemble in reverse order.
>
>

 

T

TonyB

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #4

"SimonJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Is there an easy way to check the UJ's and if so can I isolate the
problem
> > to the diff?

Ah, don't worry about a "singing" diff. I had a Carlton which I drove for a
year or so before checking the diff which had always sung. It was empty and
totally dry. I filled it and it was fine, although still sang, for several
years. As it didn't leak at all, ever, I conclude that it was empty from new
(oops!), but went on for around 80k miles. I sold it to a girl at work who
trashed it by driving it into a taxi shortly after. Shame, it was the best
car I'd ever had in the saloon type class.
TonyB

 

H

Huw

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #5

"D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My 94 Rangie ran low in rear diff oil recently. It now has a droning noise
> that my non landy mechanic believes is the diff, and he tells me that a
> landy mechanic checked it and it is really not to bad.
> It has an occasional clunk and vibration now when hot, at times this is
> matched by road speed, which they believe could be the UJ on the prop
> shafts.
>
> Is there an easy way to check the UJ's and if so can I isolate the problem
> to the diff?
>
> If it is the diff would slick 50 and thicker oil help, as it drives
> smoothly
> when cold, do the diffs have bearings that could be damaged?
>
> Is replacing a diff a difficult or costly job and could it be done at
> home?
>

Don't bother replacing the diff unless it is unbearably noisy or physically
broken. Try substances that are specifically meant to quieten diffs and
gearboxes. Vapormatic dealers should have this stuff in stock. Your Vap
dealer will likely be an ag engineer, from a one man band to a massive main
dealer. If you live or work in town, then Halfords might have some
equivalent stuff.

Huw

 

D

D

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #6

Ok, many thanks for the advice, the diff will stay in!

The vibration then. Prop shaft?
Should I replace them or simply the bearings and UJ's

Dave

"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My 94 Rangie ran low in rear diff oil recently. It now has a droning
noise
> > that my non landy mechanic believes is the diff, and he tells me that a
> > landy mechanic checked it and it is really not to bad.
> > It has an occasional clunk and vibration now when hot, at times this is
> > matched by road speed, which they believe could be the UJ on the prop
> > shafts.
> >
> > Is there an easy way to check the UJ's and if so can I isolate the
problem
> > to the diff?
> >
> > If it is the diff would slick 50 and thicker oil help, as it drives
> > smoothly
> > when cold, do the diffs have bearings that could be damaged?
> >
> > Is replacing a diff a difficult or costly job and could it be done at
> > home?
> >
>
> Don't bother replacing the diff unless it is unbearably noisy or
physically
> broken. Try substances that are specifically meant to quieten diffs and
> gearboxes. Vapormatic dealers should have this stuff in stock. Your Vap
> dealer will likely be an ag engineer, from a one man band to a massive
main
> dealer. If you live or work in town, then Halfords might have some
> equivalent stuff.
>
> Huw
>
>

 

H

Huw

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #7

"D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, many thanks for the advice, the diff will stay in!
>
> The vibration then. Prop shaft?
> Should I replace them or simply the bearings and UJ's
>

Check the UJ's to see if there is play. If not, check again in a week or so.
If there is play or a rough spot or resistance when the shaft is turned [not
easy to ascertain if you have no lift or pit] then the cross and bearings
should be changed. These are available as boxed kits almost anywhere. The
prop shaft itself will be fine unless obviously damaged or the centre joint
splines are obviously worn as shown by play if the centre of the shaft
length is pushed up and down.

Huw

 

D

Derek

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #8

"SimonJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...> > Unbolt
propshaft.
> remove both halfshafts
> Unbolt diff and remove.(very heavy!)
>
> Assemble in reverse order.
>
you didn't write the Haynes manual by any chance did you?
;-)
Derek

 

T

TonyB

Guest

• Oct 14, 2005

• #9

Unbolt
> propshaft.
> > remove both halfshafts
> > Unbolt diff and remove.(very heavy!)
> >
> > Assemble in reverse order.
> >
> you didn't write the Haynes manual by any chance did you?
> ;-)

Nah. Doesn't say "Disconnect the battery negative lead". My HBOL says that
before every job.
TonyB

 

S

SimonJ

Guest

• Oct 15, 2005

• #10

> Unbolt
> propshaft.
> > remove both halfshafts
> > Unbolt diff and remove.(very heavy!)
> >
> > Assemble in reverse order.
> >
> you didn't write the Haynes manual by any chance did you?
> ;-)
> Derek
>
>
No, the Haynes manual instructions for changing the diff are.......

"Take vehicle to dealer."