Rover V8 Problem

Hi
I have a Rover V8 3.5 in my series 3 the engines done 6000 miles since I
fully rebuilt it, the engine was originally from a Rover P6.
It's ran fine for the last few years but over the last few months it has
developed a problem with randomly loosing power. Some times it feels like a
misfire, just a sudden hiccup then returns to normal straight away. But
other times it can loose power for about 10 to 15 seconds at a time some
times more severely than others. Some times you can just hear the engine
struggling a bit but doesn't slow down very much but other times it has very
quickly slowed almost to a stand still whilst going down hill as well, at
the time I though the throttle cable must have snapped but just as quickly
everything returned to normal and I suddenly shot off down the road.
I've noticed that when this happens the rev counter stays steady so I think
that the electronic ignition is working OK, I have noticed though that the
coil gets very hot, it always has done and this ones been on about a year
the old one was the same I only changed it so I had a spare. How hot should
the coil normally get?
The HT leads are new Magnecore ones so I think there OK. Distributor and
rotor arm are OK. The spark plugs are a bit old now so I'm going to change
them today anyway.
I have a vacuum gauge connected to one of the SU carburettors, when the
problem occurs the gauge shows very low vacuum, What would cause the low
vacuum level?
I've stripped both carbs down and replaced seals valves etc and carefully
set them up but has made no difference to the problem.
My other thoughts are the fuel pump and filters, I think I may change the
filters today but they look OK (clean inside) they are the see-through
plastic inline sort of filters. As far as I can tell the electric pump is
working fine and the problem can occur with a full or nearly empty tank so I
think the pick up pipe is OK but I'm going to check that today.
The problem can occur in all weather, it can keep doing it all day one day
then run fine for the next few weeks or so.
Anyone had problems like this before? Any ideas on this problem gratefully
received.

Thanks
Liam

Hello, Liam

Mine did this when the facet fuel pump filter was jamming inside the
pump.....

--
Neil

"Neil Brownlee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello, Liam
>
> Mine did this when the facet fuel pump filter was jamming inside the
> pump.....
>
> --
> Neil
>
>
What type of facet pump was it? I did have the cylindrical type on
originally but after two of those failed after being used for only a few
months (one the electrics burnt out other kept sticking) I am now using
square cube type.
This has no filter inside it so I have a filter in the pipe before it. Just
been looking at the filter and its clean but it is full of air, (whether
pump is running or not) the filter that I have after the pump is full of
petrol. Can't find a way of getting the air out of the first filter, could
this be causing any problems with supplying the petrol to the carbs.? I can
hear petrol running back into the tank so I assume its not a problem. Also
all the pipes and connections are OK.

Liam

In news:[email protected],
Liam <[email protected]> blithered:
> Hi
> I have a Rover V8 3.5 in my series 3 the engines done 6000 miles
> since I fully rebuilt it, the engine was originally from a Rover P6.
> It's ran fine for the last few years but over the last few months it
> has developed a problem with randomly loosing power. Some times it
> feels like a misfire, just a sudden hiccup then returns to normal
> straight away. But other times it can loose power for about 10 to 15
> seconds at a time some times more severely than others. Some times
> you can just hear the engine struggling a bit but doesn't slow down
> very much but other times it has very quickly slowed almost to a
> stand still whilst going down hill as well, at the time I though the
> throttle cable must have snapped but just as quickly everything
> returned to normal and I suddenly shot off down the road. I've noticed that when
> this happens the rev counter stays steady so I
> think that the electronic ignition is working OK, I have noticed
> though that the coil gets very hot, it always has done and this ones
> been on about a year the old one was the same I only changed it so I
> had a spare. How hot should the coil normally get?

Remember there's twice as many sparks per min on your V8 than the std 4pot in the
series. You need a 8 cyl coil.



> The HT leads are new Magnecore ones so I think there OK. Distributor
> and rotor arm are OK. The spark plugs are a bit old now so I'm going
> to change them today anyway.
> I have a vacuum gauge connected to one of the SU carburettors, when
> the problem occurs the gauge shows very low vacuum, What would cause
> the low vacuum level?
> I've stripped both carbs down and replaced seals valves etc and
> carefully set them up but has made no difference to the problem.
> My other thoughts are the fuel pump and filters, I think I may change
> the filters today but they look OK (clean inside) they are the
> see-through plastic inline sort of filters. As far as I can tell the
> electric pump is working fine and the problem can occur with a full
> or nearly empty tank so I think the pick up pipe is OK but I'm going
> to check that today. The problem can occur in all weather, it can keep doing it
> all day
> one day then run fine for the next few weeks or so.
> Anyone had problems like this before? Any ideas on this problem
> gratefully received.
>
> Thanks
> Liam



--
"He who says it cannot be done should not interrupt her doing it."

If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!

On or around Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:45:37 -0000, "GbH"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Remember there's twice as many sparks per min on your V8 than the std 4pot in the
>series. You need a 8 cyl coil.

I hope you're taking the **** here...

actually, what you *do* need is an "electronic" coil for an electronic
ignition system, or a "points" coil for a points system. IIRC, points coil
on an electronic will give unreliable sparks, and electronic one on points
rapidly gets too hot to touch...
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------\
>> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them.
a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:45:37 -0000, "GbH"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Remember there's twice as many sparks per min on your V8 than the std 4pot
>>in the
>>series. You need a 8 cyl coil.
>
> I hope you're taking the **** here...
>
> actually, what you *do* need is an "electronic" coil for an electronic
> ignition system, or a "points" coil for a points system. IIRC, points
> coil
> on an electronic will give unreliable sparks, and electronic one on points
> rapidly gets too hot to touch...
> --

I've check the coil and its the correct one. I'm using the Lucas 35DM8
electronic ignition module does anyone know if a ballast resistor is needed
with this? The wiring diagram I looked at when I fitted it did not show one.

Liam

Hi the old classic Range Rovers had the ballast resistor in the wiring loom
as a ballast wire i.e. it had a high resistance over its length so if you
have the correct coil for the vehicle then it ( should be ) ok.
Try a volt meter on the coil when its running and when you are cranking it
on the starter.

Rich

> I've check the coil and its the correct one. I'm using the Lucas 35DM8
> electronic ignition module does anyone know if a ballast resistor is
needed
> with this? The wiring diagram I looked at when I fitted it did not show
one.
>
> Liam
>
>