Replacing Crossmember on a D1

The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the plastic
trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace? If anyone has
done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the work?

"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace? If
> anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the work?
>

hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into those
corners mate.

"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the plastic
>> trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace? If anyone has
>> done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the work?
>>
>
> hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into those
> corners mate.


Took the plastic off and the whole piece is rotten, needs fixing pronto,
been quoted £300 to repair or around £600 to replace. Now I know why I got
rid of my old 90, one job seems to follow another and the bargain you
thought you had got turns into a moneypit !

"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace?
>>> If anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the
>>> work?
>>>
>>
>> hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into those
>> corners mate.
>
>
> Took the plastic off and the whole piece is rotten, needs fixing
> pronto, been quoted £300 to repair or around £600 to replace. Now I
> know why I got rid of my old 90, one job seems to follow another and
> the bargain you thought you had got turns into a moneypit !
>

That sounds way expensive matey, who was that from?

"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>>>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace? If
>>>> anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the work?
>>>>
>>>
>>> hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into those
>>> corners mate.
>>
>>
>> Took the plastic off and the whole piece is rotten, needs fixing pronto,
>> been quoted £300 to repair or around £600 to replace. Now I know why I
>> got rid of my old 90, one job seems to follow another and the bargain you
>> thought you had got turns into a moneypit !
>>
>
> That sounds way expensive matey, who was that from?

Stamford garage, SP can't do it, Old Mill don't weld but get someone in,
might have to get a quote off them.

"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>>>>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to
>>>>> replace? If anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be
>>>>> paying for the work?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into
>>>> those corners mate.
>>>
>>>
>>> Took the plastic off and the whole piece is rotten, needs fixing
>>> pronto, been quoted £300 to repair or around £600 to replace. Now I
>>> know why I got rid of my old 90, one job seems to follow another and
>>> the bargain you thought you had got turns into a moneypit !
>>>
>>
>> That sounds way expensive matey, who was that from?
>
> Stamford garage, SP can't do it, Old Mill don't weld but get someone
> in, might have to get a quote off them.
>

I would, or could we do it between us?

"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>>>>>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace?
>>>>>> If anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the
>>>>>> work?
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into those
>>>>> corners mate.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Took the plastic off and the whole piece is rotten, needs fixing
>>>> pronto, been quoted £300 to repair or around £600 to replace. Now I
>>>> know why I got rid of my old 90, one job seems to follow another and
>>>> the bargain you thought you had got turns into a moneypit !
>>>>
>>>
>>> That sounds way expensive matey, who was that from?
>>
>> Stamford garage, SP can't do it, Old Mill don't weld but get someone in,
>> might have to get a quote off them.
>>
>
> I would, or could we do it between us?


Haven't the first idea how to weld mate!

"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>>>>>>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to
>>>>>>> replace? If anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be
>>>>>>> paying for the work?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into
>>>>>> those corners mate.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Took the plastic off and the whole piece is rotten, needs fixing
>>>>> pronto, been quoted £300 to repair or around £600 to replace. Now
>>>>> I know why I got rid of my old 90, one job seems to follow another
>>>>> and the bargain you thought you had got turns into a moneypit !
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> That sounds way expensive matey, who was that from?
>>>
>>> Stamford garage, SP can't do it, Old Mill don't weld but get someone
>>> in, might have to get a quote off them.
>>>
>>
>> I would, or could we do it between us?
>
>
> Haven't the first idea how to weld mate!
>
>

I did learn years ago, can't be that hard. I can use an angle grinder
effectivly though!

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 12:00:29 -0000, "Andy"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the plastic
>trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace? If anyone has
>done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the work?
>

I did my D90 after a lorry had bent one rear side of the rear cross
member. It was rotten anyway.

I removed the rear tub which had to be replaced because it was bent,
then spot welded a box section jig onto the chassis with a piece of
flat bar along where the body bolts onto the cross member. I then
marked all the bolt holes on the flat bar and only then cut off the
cross member.

Don't forget to carefully measure where you will be welding on the new
cross member. You need the X member with extensions. I cut a bit short
so that I could grind down the chassis to get an exact fit, then spot
welded it in place to line up with the bolt holes on the jig before
completing the welding. £600 sounds like over kill to me!

The finished job was not 100% exact and I had to use some shims under
the body but nothing noticeable and it flew through it's MOT!

Not a difficult job at all and I am no welder!

Derry

Derry wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 12:00:29 -0000, "Andy"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace?
>> If anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the
>> work?
>>
>
> I did my D90 after a lorry had bent one rear side of the rear cross
> member. It was rotten anyway.
>
> I removed the rear tub which had to be replaced because it was bent,
> then spot welded a box section jig onto the chassis with a piece of
> flat bar along where the body bolts onto the cross member. I then
> marked all the bolt holes on the flat bar and only then cut off the
> cross member.
>
> Don't forget to carefully measure where you will be welding on the
> new cross member. You need the X member with extensions. I cut a bit
> short so that I could grind down the chassis to get an exact fit,
> then spot welded it in place to line up with the bolt holes on the
> jig before completing the welding. £600 sounds like over kill to me!
>
> The finished job was not 100% exact and I had to use some shims under
> the body but nothing noticeable and it flew through it's MOT!
>
> Not a difficult job at all and I am no welder!
>
> Derry

It's a Disco matey, same arrangement as the RRC, it's not a full
crossmember, it's a smaller kind of thing.

Andy, is it the actual chassis or the body tub thats rusted out?


--
Ta!

Nige

Subaru WRX (54)
Land Rover 101 GS/Ambi (Morph)
KTM 520 SX

"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Derry wrote:
>> On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 12:00:29 -0000, "Andy"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to replace?
>>> If anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be paying for the
>>> work?
>>>
>>
>> I did my D90 after a lorry had bent one rear side of the rear cross
>> member. It was rotten anyway.
>>
>> I removed the rear tub which had to be replaced because it was bent,
>> then spot welded a box section jig onto the chassis with a piece of
>> flat bar along where the body bolts onto the cross member. I then
>> marked all the bolt holes on the flat bar and only then cut off the
>> cross member.
>>
>> Don't forget to carefully measure where you will be welding on the
>> new cross member. You need the X member with extensions. I cut a bit
>> short so that I could grind down the chassis to get an exact fit,
>> then spot welded it in place to line up with the bolt holes on the
>> jig before completing the welding. £600 sounds like over kill to me!
>>
>> The finished job was not 100% exact and I had to use some shims under
>> the body but nothing noticeable and it flew through it's MOT!
>>
>> Not a difficult job at all and I am no welder!
>>
>> Derry
>
> It's a Disco matey, same arrangement as the RRC, it's not a full
> crossmember, it's a smaller kind of thing.
>
> Andy, is it the actual chassis or the body tub thats rusted out?
>
>

It's the body tub, box section that runs across the rear and joins the
chassis rails and boot floor just behind the top of the rear bumper (under
where the rear door closes). To replace it is a fair bit of work. The guy
who looked at it reckons that the underside is OK, it has just rusted
through on the top section where water sits so it can probably be plated up.
Getting a full quote tomorrow so we'll see.

Andy wrote:
> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Derry wrote:
>>> On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 12:00:29 -0000, "Andy"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The rear crossmember on my D1 is shot, the top section under the
>>>> plastic trim is completely rusted away. Is it a big job to
>>>> replace? If anyone has done it, what sort of cost should I be
>>>> paying for the work?
>>>>
>>>
>>> I did my D90 after a lorry had bent one rear side of the rear cross
>>> member. It was rotten anyway.
>>>
>>> I removed the rear tub which had to be replaced because it was
>>> bent, then spot welded a box section jig onto the chassis with a
>>> piece of flat bar along where the body bolts onto the cross
>>> member. I then marked all the bolt holes on the flat bar and only
>>> then cut off the cross member.
>>>
>>> Don't forget to carefully measure where you will be welding on the
>>> new cross member. You need the X member with extensions. I cut a
>>> bit short so that I could grind down the chassis to get an exact
>>> fit, then spot welded it in place to line up with the bolt holes
>>> on the jig before completing the welding. £600 sounds like over
>>> kill to me! The finished job was not 100% exact and I had to use
>>> some shims
>>> under the body but nothing noticeable and it flew through it's MOT!
>>>
>>> Not a difficult job at all and I am no welder!
>>>
>>> Derry
>>
>> It's a Disco matey, same arrangement as the RRC, it's not a full
>> crossmember, it's a smaller kind of thing.
>>
>> Andy, is it the actual chassis or the body tub thats rusted out?
>>
>>
>
> It's the body tub, box section that runs across the rear and joins
> the chassis rails and boot floor just behind the top of the rear
> bumper (under where the rear door closes). To replace it is a fair
> bit of work. The guy who looked at it reckons that the underside is
> OK, it has just rusted through on the top section where water sits
> so it can probably be plated up. Getting a full quote tomorrow so
> we'll see.

Right, thats more complicated than the rear chassis crossmember, but it
should still able to be sorted less than that!!

--
Ta!

Nige

Subaru WRX (54)
Land Rover 101 GS/Ambi (Morph)
KTM 520 SX

>>> Andy, is it the actual chassis or the body tub thats rusted out?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> It's the body tub, box section that runs across the rear and joins
>> the chassis rails and boot floor just behind the top of the rear
>> bumper (under where the rear door closes). To replace it is a fair
>> bit of work. The guy who looked at it reckons that the underside is
>> OK, it has just rusted through on the top section where water sits
>> so it can probably be plated up. Getting a full quote tomorrow so
>> we'll see.
>
> Right, thats more complicated than the rear chassis crossmember, but it
> should still able to be sorted less than that!!
>
> --

Found a repair panel on the web for £125, will try and factor this in to a
couple of days labour. 1 to cut out and prepare, the other to weld the new
panel in, grind the seams and schultz it etc.

Andy wrote:
>>>> Andy, is it the actual chassis or the body tub thats rusted out?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> It's the body tub, box section that runs across the rear and joins
>>> the chassis rails and boot floor just behind the top of the rear
>>> bumper (under where the rear door closes). To replace it is a fair
>>> bit of work. The guy who looked at it reckons that the underside is
>>> OK, it has just rusted through on the top section where water sits
>>> so it can probably be plated up. Getting a full quote tomorrow so
>>> we'll see.
>>
>> Right, thats more complicated than the rear chassis crossmember,
>> but it should still able to be sorted less than that!!
>>
>> --
>
> Found a repair panel on the web for £125, will try and factor this
> in to a couple of days labour. 1 to cut out and prepare, the other
> to weld the new panel in, grind the seams and schultz it etc.

Have you spoke to Richard at Beamends? I got a repair panel for the RRC
for £45, I would think that would be similar? Have you tried the
Discovery centre at all?

--
Ta!

Nige

Subaru WRX (54)
Land Rover 101 GS/Ambi (Morph)
KTM 520 SX

On or around Wed, 15 Nov 2006 14:13:53 -0000, "Nige"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>I did learn years ago, can't be that hard. I can use an angle grinder
>effectivly though!
>

speaking of which, just got some 1mm thick cutting discs and they're fookin'
ace.

Makre sure your grinder will accept them - not everyone has the facilities
to alter the grinder parts to accept thin discs.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
In Touch: Get in touch with yourself by touching yourself.
If somebody is watching, stop touching yourself.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Wed, 15 Nov 2006 14:13:53 -0000, "Nige"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>> I did learn years ago, can't be that hard. I can use an angle
>> grinder effectivly though!
>>
>
> speaking of which, just got some 1mm thick cutting discs and they're
> fookin' ace.
>
> Makre sure your grinder will accept them - not everyone has the
> facilities to alter the grinder parts to accept thin discs.

mmmmmmmmm - i might get my grinder out of the shed & buy some!!
ANNNNDDDYYYY - let me at it!!!

I remember my first disc explosion, i was doing some alterations to a
MK1 RS2000 (that i fully rebuilt from scratch years ago) Glad i had
goggles on!!


--
Ta!

Nige

Subaru WRX (54)
Land Rover 101 GS/Ambi (Morph)
KTM 520 SX