replacing a 90 200tdi bulkhead.tips?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

gezz

New Member
Posts
36
ive bought a replacement front bulkhead to replace my rotting original.
im considering galvanising it to sit on my new galvi chassis(1yr old).
can i remove the old bulkhead without removing the windscreen?
where can i source the various clips and fittings that attach to the new blkhd?local landy dealer?
any other tips would be gratefully appreciated.
and no sarcastic comments thanks.
 
ive bought a replacement front bulkhead to replace my rotting original.
im considering galvanising it to sit on my new galvi chassis(1yr old).
can i remove the old bulkhead without removing the windscreen?
No but removing the windscreen is a simple job just undo the bolts that hold it to the bulkhead thru the hinges (or imitation hinges) and undo the bolts that hold it to the roof. and the whole windscreen frame will come clear.

where can i source the various clips and fittings that attach to the new blkhd?local landy dealer?
Try Paddocks or similar or even fleabay. Dealer will ripp you off big time.

any other tips would be gratefully appreciated.
and no sarcastic comments thanks.
Don't be fooking daft this is LZ we're only here for the beer and the ****takes.. If you want serious try www.landroverforum.net.
 
Aye wot he sez.

An as fer galvying it, you can get it done, I saw one at Humberside galvanizing a bit back after galvying, an it want wot you might call straight, though if you weren't that fussed it would probly have fitted. I'd ton it upsidedown an blather the insides with waxoil or summat, an I'd spray it with a zinc primer before blathering heaps of paint on it, how long do you realisicly need it to last.

Get yer Nutserts from Haddocks an yer Rivnuts from a nut an bolt stockist.
 
I would seam seal all the fooking spot welded joins with a LOAD of seam sealer, then give it a load of coats of paint (doesn't need to be pretty you don't see it) then I painted my footwells inside and out with heaps of fibreglass resin, a little sand down, then paint that on. Makes it tough as nails.

Just get a big selection box of nuts, bolts and washers from screwfix, you will need a bunch of M5/6 (If I remember correctly) pozidrive machine screws.

I keep on meaning to post my craddocks list that had every plastic rivet, seal, washer, gasket you will need and I had everything I needed.

You will need things like heat shrink for sorting bits of the loom...

Someone asked about this really recently and I and many others posted a lot of good information about this, it was within the last few weeks. So have a look look, if you search posts by me and go back a bit you will see.
 
thanks for that.bought bulkhead off ebay £200(ouch).was in good nick but chap kept it outside.rusted in various seams but otherwise good.if galvanising warps the blkhd.not sure what to do.cant gurantee grinding all the rust off.initially i was going to get it blasted,then galvanised.now thinking of maybe taking the route you took.would really appreciate the list of bits from you.cheers
 
I think the sand blasting would be a good route, then used red oxide like yella says or that cold galv spray its brilliant.

I would still recommend rubbing down the seams afterwards and seam sealing it with proper car body shop seam sealer. £6 for a litre can and I am still using it on random jobs. You can use some white spirit on your finger when its fresh on to give it a smooth look - however the only ones that are visible are the footwells but by the time you put a mat in there you won't see it.

Obviously being a body shop sealer it over paints perfectly - So you can give the whole thing a coat of a good primer and then lay on the top coat, engine bay side of the bulkhead I gave it about 4 coats, footwells got about 10 coats, door pillars I don't know I just kept putting more on after it dried. You can also stuff the channel sections (door pillar, under & above the vent flaps) with waxoyle.

Remember to order door hinge captive nuts, does your door pillar have the captive nuts in it for the wing? If not get these, also get new wing bolts (very course threaded things which will probably not come out of the old BH properly) I ended up running a 9" angle grinder down the length of the old bulkhead and then just battered the bolts from the other side to ease them up and they soon came out - don't even waste time trying (make sure the courtesy light wiring is out of the pillar first - it comes in from a hole on the top).

I would also get a new set of door hinges, unless your current ones are in good order. I don't see the point in doing all this work then putting old rusty hardware back on. When you get the hinges like that you can paint them up during your bulkhead swap so come fitting time they are fully painted all sides. Remember hinge gaskets.

Where are you planning on doing the swap?

There are a few ways you can do it which will depend on help and space available.

You can strip the whole lot down in situ so by the end your lifting a naked bulkhead off the chassis - not the best if you have to do the swap outside.

Or

You can strip the the landrover enough to get the bulkhead out, remove all the connections, then get some strong people to help you lift the whole thing off and sit it somewhere with good light and if your lucky enough heat!

You can build a basic frame with timber to hold it for you while you do the hardware changeover you can sit the two next to each other and transfer the lot over.

Take your time and don't rush it, it will be worth it in the end, heater box out... sand it, give it a paint - I had a couple of cans of Satin Black spray paint and just blasted everything as I went... door catches, heater box, expansion tank, radiator mounts, brake servo...

I WILL post the list soon - its still in paper form somewhere.
 
just come in from fitting a stainless xhaust.right pain in the ass.from double s xhausts.rear section bracket was wrong,sent it back,they denied it was their fault,said my tires were too big.
noticed it is a bit pokier,200tdi power!
also water pump change last week.got the stubborn studs out aftr lots and lots of heat and wiggling.
planing to change the blkhd in an open barn or maybe a garage with pit.
living in a flat doesnt help much.
galvi spray sounds interesting?
 
From what I hear the trick to galvanizing the thin metal like on a bulkhead is to instruct the person doing the work not to 'quench' it after and to let it air-cool. It seems that it is the thermal shock of being tossed into cold water that causes the warping. I've talked to a couple people who've done it this way with good experiences.
 
Back
Top