Rear Brake Repairs

Hi All

Need advice from those who know best.
The Story:-
Have recently noticed that my rear brakes weren't performing at there best, started to get a squeal when braking on one side and disks not looking good.
Was going to replace pads and disks as soon as I was back in work after recently being made redundant. However true to form the P38 Goblins of mischief decided to press the matter. Was driving near home and as I braked, I heard a bang from rear end, got home ok though. Upon playing musical cars on drive way to make sure right car was in spot to leave first, got a low brake fluid warning. When I looked there is pretty much the full contents of my brake system fluid on drive behind left rear wheel.

So I've ordered set of pads, discs, 2 calliper guides & 2 rear callipers. As I figured that I may aswell change all the bits of the brakes on the rear rather than fix what I'm assuming is a knackered piston / seal / both as the pipework looks ok and the fluid was coming from bottom of calliper not the flexi brake pipe. ( If I'm putting new shiney bits on it make sense to replace all the bits at once as its done 180K and they look overdue for some TLC.)

Anyway my questions are

I'm not a mechanic, more an enthusiast who's not afraid to get dirty, who knows his way round a spanner etc.
I've read all the procedures on rave for servicing/replacing the brakes etc.

1) Should I go ahead and try it myself, or is it one of those jobs you really need to pay someone to do. After all its a pretty important job to get right.? (but money is tight with me not working)
2) Any pitfalls (apart from air in line) to look for?
3) Any hints or tips or advice to what to look for on wheel hubs that might show further issues that will need addressing.
4) Any advice to make the job go easier.

Many thanks for your help in advance and apology's for the duration of this post, but I've tried to put as much info in to give you as good a picture as poss.

Martin
:violent:

If you don't know what you are doing don't do it.

probably his first and last post...

Dear nickp3003,

any particular reason for your post or just an attempt at a cheap laugh. At least wammers gave an open and honest opinion and for that I thank him.
I thought that this was, THE site to use for all and any advice, info, guidance , and more importantly HELP. And also some humour.
Please dont assume that because ive never done that particular job, ive never done similar jobs before and as I'm still here they have worked out pretty well.
WE all learn somewhere and we all appreciate those that pass their knowledge on to us. THE MAN THAT KNOWS IT ALL, ACTUALLY KNOWS NOTHING.

I Bought my P38 knowing full well it would cause me problems, drain my wallet, make me want to cry, but above all else I would be able to try to learn how to look after it, learn some new skills in repairing it as best I could, seek help and guidance from fellow owners, and generally have some fun.

So please let mr reword a well known phrase to suit this occassion

If you cannot say anything USEFUL dont say ANYTHING at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The job is quite straight forward, when I did mine I had a few minor issues:

The discs can be difficult to remove I hit mine from the back while turning the hub and they came off ok.

The bolts that hold the caliper on can be very tight, make sure you have the correct socket.

Do follow the correct bleed procedure exactly, it's a two person job and takes time there are no shortcuts.

Probably the brake pipes over the rear axle are rusty and need replacing as well

Thanks for that,
I, ve already been spraying penetrating fluid on bolt heads for last day so that may help . Believe it or not the pipes look in good condition, about the only bit that does so far.
Tomorrow is the day it all starts.

mbcavanagh said:

Dear nickp3003,

any particular reason for your post or just an attempt at a cheap laugh. At least wammers gave an open and honest opinion and for that I thank him.
I thought that this was, THE site to use for all and any advice, info, guidance , and more importantly HELP. And also some humour.
Please dont assume that because ive never done that particular job, ive never done similar jobs before and as I'm still here they have worked out pretty well.
WE all learn somewhere and we all appreciate those that pass their knowledge on to us. THE MAN THAT KNOWS IT ALL, ACTUALLY KNOWS NOTHING.

I Bought my P38 knowing full well it would cause me problems, drain my wallet, make me want to cry, but above all else I would be able to try to learn how to look after it, learn some new skills in repairing it as best I could, seek help and guidance from fellow owners, and generally have some fun.

So please let mr reword a well known phrase to suit this occassion

If you cannot say anything USEFUL dont say ANYTHING at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

Didn't see the intro section? where you say a little about yourself and landy?

We have a fair few guys come on ask a question, get the answer then sod off,

However good to see you've come back and gave us a nice little intro above.
Welcome
We do likes things to be done properly on here

Hope your p38 doesn't give you too much hassle and we all honestly are happy to help sorry if I came across harsh

Ill put some useful input for you too if you fix your hub to the outside of the wheel it makes it a bit easier to pull the old brake disc off, as they are stuck on really well! Don't give up on it just keep hitting the thing off.

And make sure you've got a good extension bar for those calliper bolts , any problems post back here

Martin.

So long as you feel you have understood RAVE and have some time and tools, I think this is definitely doable. Don't rush.

Probably wise to change all rear brake pipes and the one front to rear. Sorry this one is hidden behind suspension condenser so air system need to be drained and tank removed.


Enjoy!

Follow bleeding logic to the letter and check recheck.