R
Richard Brookman
Guest
Mr.Nice. <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
Hi Mark. It's a few years since I did this, but I remember it being
not half as bad as I thought.
> Questions:
> Aside from a new timing belt do I need new anything else such as
> gaskets?
Can't remember exactly, but if you have to take it off (like the water
pump I think) then you will need a new gasket to put it back on.
> Are there any pain-in-the-arse bits that the books don't tell you,
> like a real bitch of a bolt at any point?
If you have removed the cooling fan shroud, there is plenty of room to
work. No real problems. The bolts holding on the timing cover are
all of different lengths, so make sure you keep them in order when you
dismantle.
> Do I need to go and buy some pullers?
Probably, but look on them as an investment - you'll need them again,
for sure. Don't buy cheap.
>
> What do I need to set the timing marks? is it a case of lining up
> marks or do I need pins to lock xy and z bits?
Two pins, one to lock the flywheel and one for the injector pump. I
didn't use either, for reasons I can't remember. I was just VERY
careful not to disturb the sprockets when the belt came off and went
on. All OK afterwards, although I might have got away with this
undeservedly.
> Will the process mean draining the coolant (not a problem as I need to
> do that anyway)?
Yes.
> Including tea brakes, bandaging hands, and swearing time, can this be
> done in a day for a home-mechanic? (you know my abilities to date,
> clutch master replacement recently, and brake overhaul, did a head
> gasket years ago too).
Unless you encounter problems, you should do it in a day easily,
probably half a day if it goes smoothly. Don't forget you will need
an old-fashioned torque wrench to set the belt tensioner (the type
with the long pointer and scale, NOT the click type). If you don't
have one anyway, get one. More uses than a very useful thing. And do
the tensioning procedure exactly as in the book - basically you set
the tension twice, turning the engine once in between. I am told that
failure to do this bit properly is the main cause of later failure.
This bit is tricky, but not impossibly so. Just needs patience (and
three hands).
If you're sensible, have the right tools and can read, you should
accomplish this OK. Best of luck! Usual caveats apply - this advice
is worth exactly what you paid for it. ;-)
Rich
RR 4.6
V8 trialler (WAS a 2.5 n/a diesel!)
Series 2a
Other gubbins
Hi Mark. It's a few years since I did this, but I remember it being
not half as bad as I thought.
> Questions:
> Aside from a new timing belt do I need new anything else such as
> gaskets?
Can't remember exactly, but if you have to take it off (like the water
pump I think) then you will need a new gasket to put it back on.
> Are there any pain-in-the-arse bits that the books don't tell you,
> like a real bitch of a bolt at any point?
If you have removed the cooling fan shroud, there is plenty of room to
work. No real problems. The bolts holding on the timing cover are
all of different lengths, so make sure you keep them in order when you
dismantle.
> Do I need to go and buy some pullers?
Probably, but look on them as an investment - you'll need them again,
for sure. Don't buy cheap.
>
> What do I need to set the timing marks? is it a case of lining up
> marks or do I need pins to lock xy and z bits?
Two pins, one to lock the flywheel and one for the injector pump. I
didn't use either, for reasons I can't remember. I was just VERY
careful not to disturb the sprockets when the belt came off and went
on. All OK afterwards, although I might have got away with this
undeservedly.
> Will the process mean draining the coolant (not a problem as I need to
> do that anyway)?
Yes.
> Including tea brakes, bandaging hands, and swearing time, can this be
> done in a day for a home-mechanic? (you know my abilities to date,
> clutch master replacement recently, and brake overhaul, did a head
> gasket years ago too).
Unless you encounter problems, you should do it in a day easily,
probably half a day if it goes smoothly. Don't forget you will need
an old-fashioned torque wrench to set the belt tensioner (the type
with the long pointer and scale, NOT the click type). If you don't
have one anyway, get one. More uses than a very useful thing. And do
the tensioning procedure exactly as in the book - basically you set
the tension twice, turning the engine once in between. I am told that
failure to do this bit properly is the main cause of later failure.
This bit is tricky, but not impossibly so. Just needs patience (and
three hands).
If you're sensible, have the right tools and can read, you should
accomplish this OK. Best of luck! Usual caveats apply - this advice
is worth exactly what you paid for it. ;-)
Rich
RR 4.6
V8 trialler (WAS a 2.5 n/a diesel!)
Series 2a
Other gubbins
