G
grege
Guest
The only adjustment available on the clutch in a Series 3 Land Rover is the
pedal height at which the master cylinder is actuated. The adjustment for
this is on the pushrod into the master cylinder, where the clutch pedal
connects - you simply adjust the two nuts either side of the clutch pedal
connector on this pushrod to move it in or out [assuming you can get your
spanners in through the gap under the inspection cover!].
Make sure there is approx half a cm of float when the clutch pedal is
released, otherwise you risk not allowing the clutch to disengage when you
release the pedal [the release valve in the master cylinder never opens].
--> Greg
"DavidM" <djm81@(I hate spam)cam.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jumped into the SIII this weekend for a drive around and a bit of
> greenlaning, but the clutch kept fading and dissapearing.
>
> I had a similar problem 6months ago. Could not disengage clutch at times,
> fluid level moved when the peddle was pushed. We changed the master and
> slave cylinders and the problem was fixed. Although, there was only a very
> short amount of firm resistance at the end of the peddle travel. I expect
> this might be over extending the new slave cylinder.
> At the time I was unable to determine form the Haynes book how to adjust
the
> lever that opperates the clutch from the slave cylinder.
>
> Can this adjustment be made with the slave cylinder removed, or will I
have
> to get inside the clutch housing? Or am I barking up the wrong tree, are
the
> Paddocks/Craddocks (cant remember which) cheap cylinders a bit fooked?
>
> DavidM
>
> --
> -------
> # | |
> :===[==¬|====;
> [/ \|___|_/ \|
> \_/ \_/
> DavidM djm81NOSPAMatcam.ac.uk
>
>
pedal height at which the master cylinder is actuated. The adjustment for
this is on the pushrod into the master cylinder, where the clutch pedal
connects - you simply adjust the two nuts either side of the clutch pedal
connector on this pushrod to move it in or out [assuming you can get your
spanners in through the gap under the inspection cover!].
Make sure there is approx half a cm of float when the clutch pedal is
released, otherwise you risk not allowing the clutch to disengage when you
release the pedal [the release valve in the master cylinder never opens].
--> Greg
"DavidM" <djm81@(I hate spam)cam.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jumped into the SIII this weekend for a drive around and a bit of
> greenlaning, but the clutch kept fading and dissapearing.
>
> I had a similar problem 6months ago. Could not disengage clutch at times,
> fluid level moved when the peddle was pushed. We changed the master and
> slave cylinders and the problem was fixed. Although, there was only a very
> short amount of firm resistance at the end of the peddle travel. I expect
> this might be over extending the new slave cylinder.
> At the time I was unable to determine form the Haynes book how to adjust
the
> lever that opperates the clutch from the slave cylinder.
>
> Can this adjustment be made with the slave cylinder removed, or will I
have
> to get inside the clutch housing? Or am I barking up the wrong tree, are
the
> Paddocks/Craddocks (cant remember which) cheap cylinders a bit fooked?
>
> DavidM
>
> --
> -------
> # | |
> :===[==¬|====;
> [/ \|___|_/ \|
> \_/ \_/
> DavidM djm81NOSPAMatcam.ac.uk
>
>