Re: Firing a 101 after 5 years.

On or around Tue, 13 Jul 2004 13:59:21 GMT, "R L Driver"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"Steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hopefully, this week, we'll fire up "Wendy" our 101 Ambi. What should we
>> do before we crank her up after 5 years laid up ?
>>
>> Change water and oil.
>> Change oil filter.
>> Change air filter..
>> New petrol ? Ouch.
>>
>> Should we try and turn it over manually ?
>>
>> Thanks for any tips
>>
>> Steve
>
>You'll be very lucky if you can get the oil pressure to come up at all after
>standing so long ( assuming its a V8)
>standard practice seems to be to change oil and filter and then undo the
>front cover of the pump and pack it with vaseline to get the pump to prime ,
>once running the oil light should go out as normal . The pumps are fairly
>crap and will not lift oil from the sump if the pump housing is empty. (
>see the Haynes V8 book)

If the sump hasn't been drained, then it ought not to need repriming.
normally only a problem if you manage to get the pump itself empty.

To help avoid this, drain the sump first, then refill it, then change the
oil filter. Have the new filter, suitably filled with oil and with it's
rubber ring oiled, ready to put on. unscrew the old one, and as fast as
reasonably possible screw the new one back on. You might then be OK. You
can, if you want, remove the plugs and shut off the petrol feed (or
disconnect, somewhere - don't 101s have an electric pump?) and, with
suitable big well-charged battery, crank 'er over a bit and see if you get
any oil pressure. You should get enough to put the light out/register on
the gauge, with cold oil at starter speed without compression.

failing that, fire 'er up (if she will ) and watch closely for signs of
oil pressure - if no pressure within about say 30 seconds then shut it off
and do the thing with the pump and vaseline; you'll want a new pump gasket
to do that bit, so get that first.

Personally, I'd pull the distributor cap, check all is clean and dry within,
and also pull the plugs for a looksee.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"For millions of years, mankind lived just like the animals. Then
something happened which unleashed the power of our imagination -
we learned to talk." Pink Floyd (1994)

Austin Shackles wrote:

> Personally, I'd pull the distributor cap, check all is clean and dry within,
> and also pull the plugs for a looksee.
>
Thanks Austin,

What kind of plug spanner do I need ? The one I have won't fit down the
bloody hole to the plug, and I borrowed one from a mate last time, who
is away on holiday.

Looks like the starter is knackered anyway. We got the starter relay to
click, we can get the starter to spin, but the starter relay doesn't
close the main contacts.

Steve

On or around Wed, 14 Jul 2004 10:30:36 +0100, Steve Taylor
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>> Personally, I'd pull the distributor cap, check all is clean and dry within,
>> and also pull the plugs for a looksee.
>>
>Thanks Austin,
>
>What kind of plug spanner do I need ? The one I have won't fit down the
>bloody hole to the plug, and I borrowed one from a mate last time, who
>is away on holiday.

erm... on the V8, you need a socket one with an extension, and then on mine
I had to grind down the wall of the socket for about the bottom 1/4". The
plugs are apt to sit just inside the hole and not have much space around
'em.

>Looks like the starter is knackered anyway. We got the starter relay to
>click, we can get the starter to spin, but the starter relay doesn't
>close the main contacts.

might work if you pull it apart and fettle it. It's a pre-engaged starter,
which means that the solenoid on the side firstly engages the gear by means
of a lever and then when it hits the end of its travel it bridges the main
contacts. If the lever or gear is stuck, it'll not work. If you supply
current to the motor side or bridge across 'em, the motor spins but isn't
engaged.

oh, and just to add amusement, the solenoid itself tends to earth through
the motor windings, god knows why, so iffy brushes can stop it happening.

You can try the bodger's fix, which is to have an assistant turn the key to
the "start" position while you hit the starter with a hammer, or more
normally a crowbar. Takes a good strong tap, but don't hit it *too* hard.
This sometimes dislodges stuck things and makes it go again.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"It is a characteristic of the human mind to hate the man one has injured"
Tacitus (c.55 - c.117) Agricola, 45

Hitting the starter with a hammer, that brings back memories, worked for
Granadas anyway


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Wed, 14 Jul 2004 10:30:36 +0100, Steve Taylor
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> erm... on the V8, you need a socket one with an extension, and then on
mine
> I had to grind down the wall of the socket for about the bottom 1/4". The
> plugs are apt to sit just inside the hole and not have much space around
> 'em.
>
> >Looks like the starter is knackered anyway. We got the starter relay to
> >click, we can get the starter to spin, but the starter relay doesn't
> >close the main contacts.
>
> might work if you pull it apart and fettle it. It's a pre-engaged
starter,
> which means that the solenoid on the side firstly engages the gear by
means
> of a lever and then when it hits the end of its travel it bridges the main
> contacts. If the lever or gear is stuck, it'll not work. If you supply
> current to the motor side or bridge across 'em, the motor spins but isn't
> engaged.
>
> oh, and just to add amusement, the solenoid itself tends to earth through
> the motor windings, god knows why, so iffy brushes can stop it happening.
>
> You can try the bodger's fix, which is to have an assistant turn the key
to
> the "start" position while you hit the starter with a hammer, or more
> normally a crowbar. Takes a good strong tap, but don't hit it *too* hard.
> This sometimes dislodges stuck things and makes it go again.
>
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> "It is a characteristic of the human mind to hate the man one has injured"
> Tacitus (c.55 - c.117) Agricola, 45

Hitting the starter with a hammer, that brings back memories, worked for
Granadas anyway


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Wed, 14 Jul 2004 10:30:36 +0100, Steve Taylor
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> erm... on the V8, you need a socket one with an extension, and then on
mine
> I had to grind down the wall of the socket for about the bottom 1/4". The
> plugs are apt to sit just inside the hole and not have much space around
> 'em.
>
> >Looks like the starter is knackered anyway. We got the starter relay to
> >click, we can get the starter to spin, but the starter relay doesn't
> >close the main contacts.
>
> might work if you pull it apart and fettle it. It's a pre-engaged
starter,
> which means that the solenoid on the side firstly engages the gear by
means
> of a lever and then when it hits the end of its travel it bridges the main
> contacts. If the lever or gear is stuck, it'll not work. If you supply
> current to the motor side or bridge across 'em, the motor spins but isn't
> engaged.
>
> oh, and just to add amusement, the solenoid itself tends to earth through
> the motor windings, god knows why, so iffy brushes can stop it happening.
>
> You can try the bodger's fix, which is to have an assistant turn the key
to
> the "start" position while you hit the starter with a hammer, or more
> normally a crowbar. Takes a good strong tap, but don't hit it *too* hard.
> This sometimes dislodges stuck things and makes it go again.
>
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> "It is a characteristic of the human mind to hate the man one has injured"
> Tacitus (c.55 - c.117) Agricola, 45