Re: brakes. it's not that, so what is it?

Mr.Nice. wrote:
> OK, I have managed now to properly adjust the brake shoes on the back
> of my 110.
> However when I actually use the brakes the symptoms are just the same
> (needs a couple of presses of the pedal to get the rear brakes to play
> along).
> As I'm not using any brake fluid I suspect I have a rubber hose
> playing 'balloons' somewhere, I saw one section of rubber hose today
> between the axle and the chassis,
> are there any more section son the rear circuit?
> how much of a b1tch is it going to be to replace and subsiquently
> bleed the system?
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

two rubber pipes at the front and one at the back (it is drum brakes isn't
it)
A recent thread in here was talking about how you can make a great
improvement to your braking by replacing these pipes with nice new shiny
braided ones. So at the LRO show I bought some, wont be able to fit them for
a while (or the new Rocky Mountain Parabolics, or the new extended shocks,
or the new steering guard, or the new bits for the diy snorkle, or the new
diff guards) cos I will still be in hosital recovering from the beating the
wife is going to give me when she finds out how much I spent

Have you by any chance checked that thing that sits between the front and
rear brakes?

Nigel
--
Lightweight 1979
nigelATleginDOTorg
Google first
ask later

On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 18:39:51 GMT, "Nigel"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>two rubber pipes at the front and one at the back (it is drum brakes isn't
>it)
>A recent thread in here was talking about how you can make a great
>improvement to your braking by replacing these pipes with nice new shiny
>braided ones.
And a.f.l regular Mr French sell's em! Today i was thinking about an
engine shuffle, and theyll be the first things i buy if i end up with
a better engine in my landy.

I had crappy brakes on my 2A for about 2 years. The complete system
was new from cylinders to pipes. We could bleed them up, and over a
week or 2 they'd gradually get worse and worse till they reached their
natural position at the bottom of the second pump.

While i was messing about with my swivels i noticed that one front
hose had a tiny nick in it. After replacing it my brakes were of a
decent series LR standard as opposed to totally useless!

It was obviously a hole, but i never noticed it loosing any fluid, so
must have sucked in air. funnily enough, the pipe i replaced it with
was older than the one that came off!

>Have you by any chance checked that thing that sits between the front and
>rear brakes?

Brake failure valve junction thingy? (not an expert on 110's so i'm
guessing, but there's gotta be someone knowledgable here!)

On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:52:18 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<[email protected]> wrote:

>there is a warning light on the brake junction gadget, it comes un
>unless I pum a couple of times which to me means rear-end failure, the
>front brakes work fine on the first pump but are not enough to stop me
>as quickly as I'd like.
>
>My mind is currently convinced it's that rubber bit of pipe..

On a series LR, with drums all round, you can wind the adjusters all
the way out (so that the pads are stuck on), and then see how far the
pedal moves. It should be pretty solid, and if not then you have
play/air somewhere else.

You could try clamping the flexy pipes off one at a time, or in pairs,
and this might give you an diea of where abouts your problem lays.

"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:52:18 +0100, Mr.Nice.
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>there is a warning light on the brake junction gadget, it comes un
>>unless I pum a couple of times which to me means rear-end failure, the
>>front brakes work fine on the first pump but are not enough to stop me
>>as quickly as I'd like.
>>
>>My mind is currently convinced it's that rubber bit of pipe..
>
> On a series LR, with drums all round, you can wind the adjusters all
> the way out (so that the pads are stuck on), and then see how far the
> pedal moves. It should be pretty solid, and if not then you have
> play/air somewhere else.
>
> You could try clamping the flexy pipes off one at a time, or in pairs,
> and this might give you an diea of where abouts your problem lays.

Cylinder on Percy sucked air in past the seal but wouldn't blow fluid past,
that was a mother to find.

My advice is to go down to a test centre (if it's safe enough to) and run it
on there rollers. This should give an indication as to where the fault lies.
Try it on one pump test... then leave a while then two pumps to see which
corner is showing the greater improvement on the second pump. Also another
good indicator is if it's pulling to one side or another... usually
indicates air in the opposite side.

The shuttle valve shows loss of pressure to the front and to the rear.. not
just rear only so if it is illuminating (only one I've known to actually
work!) then could be the front.

Brakes are a ****ing nightmare .... after 6 frost bitten nights I sent my
101 in to be fixed. First time I've given up in years. Turned out to be
multiple issues of air hear , leaks there and a adjuster that had gone
slack. Painful but the best £380 I ever spent ... I think.

If the Brakes were ok before then leave the push rod adjuster well alone.

Lee D