PTO => LT230

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
N

Nick Williams

Guest
The recent motocross experience after the rescue in late March has turned my
thoughts to winches.

I have just scored a PTO and hydraulic pump for my 1990 2.5TD 90 off e-bay.
It's come from a 110 which was originally fitted with a cherry picker. I have
yet to confirm it will actually fit onto my 90, but I have the technology for
some pretty serious modifications if it's close but not quite.

Anyone out there got any gems of knowledge I ought to know before trying to
fit it?

I will have to make a tank and acquire the bits to make the oil go round, and
I'm reasonably up to speed with hydraulics, it's the Landrover specific bits
I need to know about.

TIA

Nick.

 
Nick Williams wrote:
> The recent motocross experience after the rescue in late March has turned my
> thoughts to winches.
>
> I have just scored a PTO and hydraulic pump for my 1990 2.5TD 90 off e-bay.
> It's come from a 110 which was originally fitted with a cherry picker. I have
> yet to confirm it will actually fit onto my 90, but I have the technology for
> some pretty serious modifications if it's close but not quite.
>
> Anyone out there got any gems of knowledge I ought to know before trying to
> fit it?
>
> I will have to make a tank and acquire the bits to make the oil go round, and
> I'm reasonably up to speed with hydraulics, it's the Landrover specific bits
> I need to know about.
>
> TIA
>
> Nick.
>


Nick,
Before you do any work on your Rover, mack sure you can find a Hydraulic
winch that will fit. Ramsey makes that variety but a bit on the larger
size than electrics. Hydraulic winch are considerably heavier than
electric but then more durable also. My big question is, why put
yourself through this?

Personally, I'd go with a shaft driven winch as that they're stronger
and more trouble free. If you decide to still go with hydraulic make
sure that you use nothing but high quality stainless steel braided hose
and high quality couplings. You'll also have to have a new drive shaft
fabricated. Your vehicles balance will be extremely nose heavy which now
means that you will have to really beef up the front suspension. Nothing
less than extra heavy duty. Next, what kind of fluid with the PTO take?
Can you use the same as the transfer case? What kind of fluid does the
pump and winch take? If it's not the same, you better make sure that you
won't have any cross contamination. The last time I checked PTOs used
the same fluid as the transfer case which means the pump and thus the
winch will all be on the same circuit.

Don't forget about all the seals that will have to be taken care of.
You're looking at daily, weekly, monthly, semi-annual and annual
inspections. The less you use the winch the more often it will need to
be inspected. The seals will dry out.

And before I forget, hydraulic systems leak. So carry around a bag of
kitty litter with you to soak up the fluid. If you don't and someone
from the Fire Department sees it, you're looking at a potential HazMat,
depending on how much is on the ground. Remember, what seeps into the
ground meets up with the water you drink.

Other than that, good luck.
 
Nick Williams wrote:
> The recent motocross experience after the rescue in late March has turned my
> thoughts to winches.
>
> I have just scored a PTO and hydraulic pump for my 1990 2.5TD 90 off e-bay.
> It's come from a 110 which was originally fitted with a cherry picker. I have
> yet to confirm it will actually fit onto my 90, but I have the technology for
> some pretty serious modifications if it's close but not quite.
>
> Anyone out there got any gems of knowledge I ought to know before trying to
> fit it?
>
> I will have to make a tank and acquire the bits to make the oil go round, and
> I'm reasonably up to speed with hydraulics, it's the Landrover specific bits
> I need to know about.
>
> TIA
>
> Nick.
>


Nick,
Before you do any work on your Rover, make sure you can find a hydraulic
winch that will fit. Ramsey makes that variety but a bit on the larger
size than electrics. Hydraulic winches are considerably heavier than
electric but then more durable also. My big question is, why put
yourself through this?

Personally, I'd go with a shaft driven winch as that they're stronger
and more trouble free. If you decide to still go with hydraulic make
sure that you use nothing but high quality stainless steel braided hose
and high quality couplings. You'll also have to have a new drive shaft
fabricated. Your vehicles balance will be extremely nose heavy which now
means that you will have to really beef up the front suspension. Nothing
less than extra heavy duty. Next, what kind of fluid with the PTO take?
Can you use the same as the transfer case? What kind of fluid does the
pump and winch take? If it's not the same, you better make sure that you
won't have any cross contamination. The last time I checked PTOs used
the same fluid as the transfer case which means the pump and thus the
winch will all be on the same circuit.

Don't forget about all the seals that will have to be taken care of.
You're looking at daily, weekly, monthly, semi-annual and annual
inspections. The less you use the winch the more often it will need to
be inspected. The seals will dry out.

And before I forget, hydraulic systems leak. So carry around a bag of
kitty litter with you to soak up the fluid. If you don't and someone
from the Fire Department sees it, you're looking at a potential HazMat
incident, depending on how much is on the ground. Remember, what seeps
into the ground meets up with the water you drink.

Other than that, good luck.
 
>Nick,
>Before you do any work on your Rover, make sure you can find a hydraulic
>winch that will fit. Ramsey makes that variety but a bit on the larger
>size than electrics. Hydraulic winches are considerably heavier than
>electric but then more durable also. My big question is, why put
>yourself through this?



My Milemarker is much lighter than an electric winch ! Pulls better to.
--
Marc Draper
 
On Wed, 5 Apr 2006 17:42:32 +0100, Jeffrey S Austin wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):

> Nick Williams wrote:
>> The recent motocross experience after the rescue in late March has turned
>> my
>> thoughts to winches.
>>
>> I have just scored a PTO and hydraulic pump for my 1990 2.5TD 90 off e-bay.
>> It's come from a 110 which was originally fitted with a cherry picker. I
>> have
>> yet to confirm it will actually fit onto my 90, but I have the technology
>> for
>> some pretty serious modifications if it's close but not quite.
>>
>> Anyone out there got any gems of knowledge I ought to know before trying to
>> fit it?
>>
>> I will have to make a tank and acquire the bits to make the oil go round,
>> and
>> I'm reasonably up to speed with hydraulics, it's the Landrover specific
>> bits
>> I need to know about.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Nick.
>>

>
> Nick,
> Before you do any work on your Rover, make sure you can find a hydraulic
> winch that will fit. Ramsey makes that variety but a bit on the larger
> size than electrics. Hydraulic winches are considerably heavier than
> electric but then more durable also. My big question is, why put
> yourself through this?
>


Well, it's the kind of guy I am! But also I want to do more than just power a
winch with the hydraulic PTO - there are several other pieces of gear I have
access to which are hydraulically powered, and setting the vehicle up so that
it can be used as a hydraulic power pack is part of the scheme.

> Personally, I'd go with a shaft driven winch as that they're stronger
> and more trouble free. If you decide to still go with hydraulic make
> sure that you use nothing but high quality stainless steel braided hose
> and high quality couplings. You'll also have to have a new drive shaft
> fabricated.


Not sure I understand this - the PTO fits straight on the back of the
transfer box, does it not? The drive shafts come off the side of the tfr box
so fitting a hydraulic PTO does not involve disturbing the drive shafts. Or
am I talking bollix?


Your vehicles balance will be extremely nose heavy which now
> means that you will have to really beef up the front suspension. Nothing
> less than extra heavy duty.


I've got a fairly small hydraulic winch with a 1t pull which will do most of
what I ever need - one person can pick it up so it's not overly heavy. It's
not a Landrover standard fitting of any sort, but I've got a well equipped
metal working shop so I don't anticipate problems making an adaption to fit
it. I'm thinking perhaps about something which can be taken on and off the
vehicle with a few bolts or locking pins.



Next, what kind of fluid with the PTO take?
> Can you use the same as the transfer case? What kind of fluid does the
> pump and winch take? If it's not the same, you better make sure that you
> won't have any cross contamination. The last time I checked PTOs used
> the same fluid as the transfer case which means the pump and thus the
> winch will all be on the same circuit.


I have to say this doesn't make sense to me either - yes the PTO will be on
the same oil circuit as the tfr box but I'd have thought the hydraulic fluid
circuit through the pump and whatever the pump is driving is completely
isolated from the transfer box oil, unless the seals on the pump shaft are
knackered. But again maybe I'm talking bollix.

>
> Don't forget about all the seals that will have to be taken care of.
> You're looking at daily, weekly, monthly, semi-annual and annual
> inspections. The less you use the winch the more often it will need to
> be inspected. The seals will dry out.


fair point.

>
> And before I forget, hydraulic systems leak. So carry around a bag of
> kitty litter with you to soak up the fluid. If you don't and someone
> from the Fire Department sees it, you're looking at a potential HazMat
> incident, depending on how much is on the ground. Remember, what seeps
> into the ground meets up with the water you drink.
>


I've spent enough time working on hydraulic power presses that I'm familiar
with the fact that all hydraulic systems leak. But I'd not expect it to be
significantly worse than the lubrication leaks on the vehicle anyway. It's 16
years old and used primarily as a play thing so it's not as if I need it to
be clean and tidy.

> Other than that, good luck.


Thanks for your comments - food for thought!

Nick.


 
Jeffrey S Austin wrote:

> Nick,
> Before you do any work on your Rover, mack sure you can find a Hydraulic
> winch that will fit. Ramsey makes that variety but a bit on the larger
> size than electrics. Hydraulic winch are considerably heavier than
> electric but then more durable also. My big question is, why put
> yourself through this?


My hydraulic winch (currently sat on the workshop floor) is no heavier
than my electric winch. Granted the pump and tank will add a bit of
weight but so does the second battery I use for the electric winch.

>
> Personally, I'd go with a shaft driven winch as that they're stronger
> and more trouble free. If you decide to still go with hydraulic make
> sure that you use nothing but high quality stainless steel braided hose
> and high quality couplings. You'll also have to have a new drive shaft
> fabricated. Your vehicles balance will be extremely nose heavy which now
> means that you will have to really beef up the front suspension. Nothing
> less than extra heavy duty. Next, what kind of fluid with the PTO take?
> Can you use the same as the transfer case? What kind of fluid does the
> pump and winch take? If it's not the same, you better make sure that you
> won't have any cross contamination. The last time I checked PTOs used
> the same fluid as the transfer case which means the pump and thus the
> winch will all be on the same circuit.


A new drive shaft - why? I wouldn't bother with stainless braided hose
- all the braid is internal to the covering on hydraulic hose and so
long as the covering is not damaged it won't corrode. PTO driven
hydraulic pumps use their own hydraulic fluid from their own reservoir.
I'd normally use an ISO46 weight hydraulic fluid.
>
> Don't forget about all the seals that will have to be taken care of.
> You're looking at daily, weekly, monthly, semi-annual and annual
> inspections. The less you use the winch the more often it will need to
> be inspected. The seals will dry out.


What a load of absolute bollocks. Hydraulic seals are one of the most
reliable seal systems I know of - I spent 15 years maintaing hydraulic
winches and the like ina marine environment and had very few problems
in that time with seals failing except due to being absolutely worn out
through high usage. Certainly the little used hydarulic anchor winches
gave NO problems with seal leakage despite being used only very rarely.

>
> And before I forget, hydraulic systems leak. So carry around a bag of
> kitty litter with you to soak up the fluid. If you don't and someone
> from the Fire Department sees it, you're looking at a potential HazMat,
> depending on how much is on the ground. Remember, what seeps into the
> ground meets up with the water you drink.


Hydraulic systems only leak significantly when hoses burst. If you
specify suitably rated hoses and route and mount the hoses properly
there should be no problems with any sort of leakage. If you are really
concerned about a possible spillage then a bidegradable hydraulic fluid
such as Castrol Carelube will minimise the environmental effects of a
spillage.

http://129.35.64.91/bpglis/lubtds.nsf/technicaldata/F3B423E39D46F0B980256C4E005B7FE9



--
EMB
 
Back
Top