Pre-fading red paint?

Hello all, I'm trying to clean my landy up for sale, and want to
replace some bodywork and paint some of it. I need to replace a wing
skin, paint it and also paint the green tailgate.

Given the age of the truck, the "Arrow Red" paint has already faded,
what's the best way to approximate the fading with a new paint
application? I don't need the newly painted stuff to blend in
totally, I just don't want the contrast between the new paint and the
old to be quite so glaring as it would otherwise be.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

T-cut the old paint to brighten it up?

Nigel

--
nigel@leginDOTorg
1979 Lightweight
Blitz 4x4
and a couple of SJs for spares

"Ian Rawlings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello all, I'm trying to clean my landy up for sale, and want to
> replace some bodywork and paint some of it. I need to replace a wing
> skin, paint it and also paint the green tailgate.
>
> Given the age of the truck, the "Arrow Red" paint has already faded,
> what's the best way to approximate the fading with a new paint
> application? I don't need the newly painted stuff to blend in
> totally, I just don't want the contrast between the new paint and the
> old to be quite so glaring as it would otherwise be.
>
> --
> Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

On 2006-04-30, Nigel <[email protected]> wrote:

> T-cut the old paint to brighten it up?

I think I tried that previously and it didn't seem to help much! Then
again I do tend to get bored rather quickly..

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

On Sun, 30 Apr 2006 08:48:22 +0100, Ian Rawlings
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On 2006-04-30, Nigel <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> T-cut the old paint to brighten it up?
>
>I think I tried that previously and it didn't seem to help much! Then
>again I do tend to get bored rather quickly..

I think thats the way people generally do it!

If you have a go at t-cutting the rest, and it still doesnt quite go
to the original colour you could try and get the paint place to mix
you some new paint not quite to proper specs but to match the rest of
the car.

In message <[email protected]>
Ian Rawlings <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hello all, I'm trying to clean my landy up for sale, and want to
>replace some bodywork and paint some of it. I need to replace a wing
>skin, paint it and also paint the green tailgate.
>
>Given the age of the truck, the "Arrow Red" paint has already faded,
>what's the best way to approximate the fading with a new paint
>application? I don't need the newly painted stuff to blend in
>totally, I just don't want the contrast between the new paint and the
>old to be quite so glaring as it would otherwise be.
>
>--
>Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!


You should really use what the professionals use, "Farecla G3" rubbing
compound, T-cut is more of a paint cleanser than a paint restorer.
Farecla has some serious bite, thus less effort to rub paint with.

Polishing up old paintwork will depend on how badly faded the red panels
are, they may compound up well to match your new paint but if they do
not the new paint can still be matched by altering it at the paint
mixing factor (probably by adding a little white to tone down the red)
but this is a time consuming operation and the factor could charge extra
for this service, whereas a car body shop would do it automatically
(free) as part of the course to match poorly matched colours.

First compound the adjacent panels and see how they polish up, if still
faded then take the vehicle to a paint factor and ask them to mix and
match the new red to match the old.

However if the old red does compound up well then just buy new paint as
is and spray as normal, but be prepared to compound the whole vehicle if
the colour does come up well, surprisingly sometimes red does and can
leave the rest of the vehicle looking shabby and dull.

Steve.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

On 2006-04-30, Stephen Hull <[email protected]> wrote:

> You should really use what the professionals use, "Farecla G3" rubbing
> compound, T-cut is more of a paint cleanser than a paint restorer.
> Farecla has some serious bite, thus less effort to rub paint with.

I'll pop next door, it's just occurred to me that there's a pair of
professional car reconditioners and painters next door who I chat to
regularly, quite why I'm bothering you lot when there are pro painters
within sight of me I don't know!!

They'll be back on Tuesday, I'll have a chat with them.

Cheers for the hints, if I can't get hold of the guys next door I'll
get some T-cut or Farecla if I can find it. Chances are I'll be able
to beg some from the lads next door.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

Ian Rawlings wrote:

|| On 2006-04-30, Stephen Hull <[email protected]> wrote:
||
||| You should really use what the professionals use, "Farecla G3"
||| rubbing compound, T-cut is more of a paint cleanser than a paint
||| restorer. Farecla has some serious bite, thus less effort to rub
||| paint with.
||
|| I'll pop next door, it's just occurred to me that there's a pair of
|| professional car reconditioners and painters next door who I chat to
|| regularly, quite why I'm bothering you lot when there are pro
|| painters within sight of me I don't know!!
||
|| They'll be back on Tuesday, I'll have a chat with them.
||
|| Cheers for the hints, if I can't get hold of the guys next door I'll
|| get some T-cut or Farecla if I can find it. Chances are I'll be able
|| to beg some from the lads next door.
||
|| --
|| Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

Ship's chandlers for the Farecla, if you can't get it elsewhere. Used
extensively to restore GRP hulls to original colour - works a treat! Only
caveat is, it is pretty aggressive, so use with caution.

--
Rich
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