P38 gearbox removal

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Brian armitage

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Wakefield
Hi you guys and girls out there could do with some info please I'm replacing clutch and dmf on the missus p38 to manual I really don't want to take out engine and box I understand that I can do this with engine still in situ been told to make a bracket up to fit on trolley jack anyone know the dimensions and what all this entails please thanks in advance
 
Brian armitage said:
Hi you guys and girls out there could do with some info please I'm replacing clutch and dmf on the missus p38 to manual I really don't want to take out engine and box I understand that I can do this with engine still in situ been told to make a bracket up to fit on trolley jack anyone know the dimensions and what all this entails please thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Brian armitage said:
Hi you guys and girls out there could do with some info please I'm replacing clutch and dmf on the missus p38 to manual I really don't want to take out engine and box I understand that I can do this with engine still in situ been told to make a bracket up to fit on trolley jack anyone know the dimensions and what all this entails please thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Struggling to type on this phone. Download RAVE and you won't go wrong. See Technical section. Might be in one of Wammers's posts.

Gearbox with transfer box still attached is pretty heavy. You'll need a new set of spiral pins, preferably with something jammed up the inside like a second set of pins.

Where are you?
 
Brian armitage said:
Hi you guys and girls out there could do with some info please I'm replacing clutch and dmf on the missus p38 to manual I really don't want to take out engine and box I understand that I can do this with engine still in situ been told to make a bracket up to fit on trolley jack anyone know the dimensions and what all this entails please thanks in advance
Click to expand...
It really isn't a bad job especially if you buy the piece of kit that Wammers posted the link to and have a good trolley jack and a flat hard standing. Put the car up on four ramps and it will give you enough clearance to do the job. Split the t/box from the gearbox, it's the easiest way.
 
wil2813 said:
poss pull the engine or atleast forward on a manual dse
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No need. The gearbox and bell housing just rolls backwards on the jack. The engine is held on 2 mounts so it pivots slightly for some wriggle-room. Hardest thing is lining it all back up to get it back together. Block out a whole weekend if it is your first time.
 
Grrrrrr said:
No need. The gearbox and bell housing just rolls backwards on the jack. The engine is held on 2 mounts so it pivots slightly for some wriggle-room. Hardest thing is lining it all back up to get it back together. Block out a whole weekend if it is your first time.
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Wrong, the hardest thing is the feeling you get in your pants when it all slides together.:eek::D
 
brianp38dse said:
Ive got all this to come when I get round to doing the clutch, so if I read this right ive got to get all excited as I do it:D
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Either that or have a second jack!

It was actually quite an enjoyable job. Took me a while but steady progress. Getting the starter motor off was a complete bar-steward. In the end I dropped the rear of the gearbox down and went over the top to undo it. Also, the previous person had overtightened a bolt on the bell-housing stripping the thread so that was a setback. Other than that, as per RAVE.
 
Didn't have any trouble changing the starter so that should be easyer, went from top no problem, will have 2/3 jacks and a trolley.
 
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