P38A P38 eas issues

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LR-hobbs

Active Member
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206
I have just replaced the compressor in my P38 after it recently dropped to the bump stops , it still will not rise and the new compressor is very hot. It's not a hard fault as I have no lights on the dash and the eas switch doesn't have all 4 lights on

Any suggestions will be helpful.

P.s I also have a set of air bags coming
 
Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump power.

It's all in the System Info Doc (see technical archive), but this diagram explains what happens when the pump is filling the tank.

Also do it with driver's doo open, so the ECU doesn't try to raise yet, and all the air goes into the tank.

1752504661784.png
 
Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump power.
Just to be sure you mean this right ?
 

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Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump power.

It's all in the System Info Doc (see technical archive), but this diagram explains what happens when the pump is filling the tank.

Also do it with driver's doo open, so the ECU doesn't try to raise yet, and all the air goes into the tank.

View attachment 345383
After I installed I ran the car for 10 mins with the door open and still didn't rise , I took that off and I could feel air put my finger on the port it made a bit of suction.
 
No that's the compressor inlet filter. The exhaust silencer (not filter - my bad) is at the back of the block. It just unscrews by hand.

View attachment 345386
I can feel air out of that also , put my finger on it and you can hear the air noise change. Thanks mate god send 👍

What's the best step from here ? Is it a rebuild of the valve block?
 

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+1 on check for white powder - if there is the dryer is breaking down & either needs replacing, or new dessicant.

Diaphragm leaking could be either dryer powder preventing it from closing, or a split in the diaphragm.

Full valve block rebuild is often a good idea, but without taking it apart you cannot tell - hence do it anyway !!

There's a good guide here https://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/
 
+1 on check for white powder - if there is the dryer is breaking down & either needs replacing, or new dessicant.

Diaphragm leaking could be either dryer powder preventing it from closing, or a split in the diaphragm.

Full valve block rebuild is often a good idea, but without taking it apart you cannot tell - hence do it anyway !!

There's a good guide here https://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/
no white powder thankfully.
 
So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump.

Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The solenoid is the one top left in that picture, and is the only one in the system that uses 12V directly (in parallel with pump wires).

1752506756504.png
 
So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump.

Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The solenoid is the one top left in that picture, and is the only one in the system that uses 12V directly (in parallel with pump wires).

View attachment 345389
Right , rebuild kit is on the way .

Seems reasonable to understand, makes sense if it's leaks as it took ages to change heights when it was working
 
So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump.

Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The solenoid is the one top left in that picture, and is the only one in the system that uses 12V directly (in parallel with pump wires).

View attachment 345389
Gorra a full one sat in its plastic housing along with driver for £35 :rolleyes:
 
It will not work, if ECU wants to lift left rear for example but the wrong solenoid is fitted, it will raise the wrong corner. I number each solenoid with a corresponding number where it fits using a marker pen.
Ah , that makes sense , hopefully I can get this running. I don't want to have to switch to coils.
 
Ah , that makes sense , hopefully I can get this running. I don't want to have to switch to coils.
One step at a time my mate.
Also when you do the diaphragm there also the none return valves.
They sit in the block a certain way, these are something else that can leak but definitely check the diaphragm first as they crack and leak air from the pump to atmosphere.
Patience young jedi, the force is with you here🫵😎
 
One step at a time my mate.
Also when you do the diaphragm there also the none return valves.
They sit in the block a certain way, these are something else that can leak but definitely check the diaphragm first as they crack and leak air from the pump to atmosphere.
Patience young jedi, the force is with you here🫵😎
There's enough guides and YouTube videos I should be fine, and t I be honest this forum has helped me more than anything.
Better than my local landy specialist who refused to work on my car , due to " no experience with p38s"
 
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