P38 EAS head scratcher - long post

I am ordering a new plug and set of pins and then going to make a second male plug to fit into it so I can accurately test ALL the wires to the ECU - not just sticking pins through the insulation

And yes I will check under the the carpets and kick plates - I have heard about corrosion but was thought the ECU was a direct contact

Yes I can operate each valve with the Lynx and test real time data (when there is some to test lol!) almost the same as the Faultmate (which I have but is defective)

When testing the ECU pin outs for the rear valves there was a strong 12 coming from the ECU - so it seems to me that as one corner lifted and the inlet and exhaust were opening, then some signals are getting through

Will be back in a few days once I get the pins from Polevolt

Just a quick note to those outside the EU and who are thinking of buying from Polevolt

we do not supply outside the EU due to insurance restrictions

And

We can only accept card payments from UK cards registered to a UK address

Save your time and energy chaps!

The hunt goes on!

britrest said:

Just a quick note to those outside the EU and who are thinking of buying from Polevolt

we do not supply outside the EU due to insurance restrictions

And

We can only accept card payments from UK cards registered to a UK address

Save your time and energy chaps!

The hunt goes on!

Click to expand...

Try here. Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd. Suppliers of auto electrical parts.

wammers said:

Try here. Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd. Suppliers of auto electrical parts.

Click to expand...

Have used them for years: they are reliable, quick and helpful. (no connection)

UPDATE
Got the suspension working today!
Works like a charm!

Problem was very simple - the plugs on the driver block were on the wrong way round!

As I said this was a back heel from another garage that could not fix it, so I marked all pipes and wires so I could fit them back right – I mainly do Defenders and Discos, so was not familiar with the P38 set up

So all marked up and put together the same way but wrong!
I did make a new pigtail for the main loom to the driver block as it was in a real bad way and would have been a problem in the future

Just goes to show how one man’s error leads to another man’s nightmare!

Many thanks for all your help and suggestions

Mike

britrest said:

UPDATE
Got the suspension working today!
Works like a charm!

Problem was very simple - the plugs on the driver block were on the wrong way round!

As I said this was a back heel from another garage that could not fix it, so I marked all pipes and wires so I could fit them back right – I mainly do Defenders and Discos, so was not familiar with the P38 set up

So all marked up and put together the same way but wrong!
I did make a new pigtail for the main loom to the driver block as it was in a real bad way and would have been a problem in the future

Just goes to show how one man’s error leads to another man’s nightmare!

Many thanks for all your help and suggestions

Mike

Click to expand...

There is a diagram in the "How To" section of where the various coded pipes go.

Was not the pipes but the 13 pin Econoseal electrical plugs that can be put in either way round - pipes were piece of cake!

I just never twigged as the wires to the solenoid valves are all black and no colour codes and the wires into the Driver block are not the same as the harness

I was quite surprised that there were 2 plugs and sockets in such close proximity that could be mis matched

Still you live and learn

britrest said:

Was not the pipes but the 13 pin Econoseal electrical plugs that can be put in either way round - pipes were piece of cake!

I just never twigged as the wires to the solenoid valves are all black and no colour codes and the wires into the Driver block are not the same as the harness

I was quite surprised that there were 2 plugs and sockets in such close proximity that could be mis matched

Still you live and learn

Click to expand...

Ok, yes that would do it every time.

One for the record eh?
Lol!

I have 25 hours in this job - mind you should be perfect now as we did find a few potential problems like the Econoseal plug wires were hanging out and what I forgot to say, when testing the solenoid valves we did hear one not click right as compared to the rest - there was a tiny bit of aluminium under the valve seat and this was on a factory recon block.

All this needed in the very beginning was the rear air bags needed to be replaced as they were leaking - well I put a new set of 4 on so should be good for a while

Now I have the SRS light on and a horrendous battery drain problem to sort - I did scan the system and I have a feeling the BeCM is defective - I found out it was replaced a few years back with a used unit and now the dash readout has a higher mileage and very odd messages like fuse 3 defective - fuse 3 is fine and replaced with a brand new fuse but the message will not go away - there are quite a few messages which I forget right now

Once again the last garage (with zero LR knowledge had replaced the battery and alternator) but I feel the BeCM is the problem - I know it is not the delay relay as it was disconnected for a few weeks - there are no lights on or any other visible system drains - but there is a hell of a spark when connecting the battery with no keys in the ignition - it could be the rebuilt alternator drawing through the diodes - will check in the morning

Oh well, at least it keeps me in work, but not the mind taxing work I desire!

Battery drain is usually down to the RF receiver keeping the BECM awake or wet carpets in the drivers footwell causing condensation in the BECM and last but not least a burnt fuse box under the bonnet.

I re set all ECU's and no spark on battery when reconnecting which is a good sign - although the BeCM is clear - it is still showing fuse 3 blown

Car is outside now and it is -30C so will be a good test for air connections are battery condition

sorry typo -

good test for air connections and battery condition

I admire your persistence - you're probably going to make $1.25 per hour on this job! Will you turn the next P38 down?

Yeap, that is why I never try to give a fixed rate for jobs as they can drag on. I need to eat, but I need to be fair too, so I generally work out something with a customer at the end of the day.

Defenders and Discos being bread an butter jobs are easy to quote for but when it comes to jobs like this they are so hard

Anyway spoke to customer last night and he is over the moon - turns out this car has been down for almost 3 years now! Been to several shops and everyone changed parts that was not the original problem

Lord know what the dealer would have charged IF they would have taken it on!

Still, I think of it as job security - never out of work if you are a decent LR mechanic - the money earned gets you a better bed in the asylum

Lol!

Mike

Good to see such dedication looking after the Marque! Dealers don't fix cars - they just chuck vaguely related parts at them until the problem goes away - if it goes away.

I get an awful lot of problems the dealers don't want to fix as it is not 'cost effective'

I could have a real good business if I was in Montreal where a majority of the cars are, but towing a car here is $400 +

But the costs of setting up there is too much and I prefer life in the country - and I have my own brewery in my workshop - I guess that would be frowned upon in the City!

It is a pity that the newer LR products are getting more and more dealer only - the tools needed are getting so expensive and even the computer diagnostic gear is not cheap but it is essential for jobs like this - but for me the payback time is too long that is why I mainly stick with older cars