Oil cooler pipe dia?

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MrGorsky

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All,

I've decided to take TCubed's advice and just change the rubber bits of my oil cooler piping. It is clearly leaking at the join and it's getting worse.

At the other end, the pipes look seized on to the cooler, and I don't want to shell out for new pipes and cooler if I can help it. The piping looks to be in quite good nick.

TCubed suggested 16mm (25mm OD) oil hose as fitted to his diesel, but I think that is too big for my 4.6 V8 petrol. At least it looks too big.

I don't have a vernier or anything to do an accurate measurement, so does anyone know what size the rubber hose is so I can buy the correct size hose and clamps first time?
 
On the P38, V8's the cooler pipe (Steel)is 1/2" (.500") Outside diameter.
Brass compression fittings are easily available in many configurations which easily withstand the pressure-search "Wade" Imperial fittings. You can then get a hydraulic type hose made up with swaged ends which need to be 1/2" BSP. The thread on the Wade fittings is 1/2" BSP so it's easy to make up. Disconnect the pipe(s) at the engine end and then cut through the steel pipe as close to the swage as possible at the cooler end. It's easier then to cut the engine end off in a vice etc. This also means that you do not have to remove the cooler connection and can make the new pipe up in situ.
Google "Pirtek" for your hose assemblies, they have branches nationwide and can make the hoses up while you wait.
From first hand experience, the oil cooler connections are best left untouched as the nuts tend to corrode and sieze on the aluminium thread on the cooler and usually the threads on the cooler get ripped to pieces during removal attempts.
 
That's interesting, didn't think they would be different on the petrol..
If you haven't already it might be worth checking the rubber bits on the gearbox cooler pipes as presumably they've been through the same sort of treatment and are a similar design. Although mine are fine and higher mileage than yours I think so maybe not :p
 
They did look very different when I had a look earlier.

I will check the 'box pipework too. Might as well do it all in one hit if I'm going to get my hands dirty.
 
They did look very different when I had a look earlier.

I will check the 'box pipework too. Might as well do it all in one hit if I'm going to get my hands dirty.

The gearbox pipes (on the ZF22 gearbox at any rate) have I think 2 rubber bits, one of which may be under the underlays
 
That's interesting, didn't think they would be different on the petrol..
If you haven't already it might be worth checking the rubber bits on the gearbox cooler pipes as presumably they've been through the same sort of treatment and are a similar design. Although mine are fine and higher mileage than yours I think so maybe not :p

I have just had my gearbox cooler pipe replaced with a swaged joint but had to have one made up instead of 2 as the short one to the cooler is too short to take the ends.
I went to an agriculture spares supplier to get them made up but had to get them to order in 1/2 inch fitting as they only had metric ones in stock and 13 mm was too big.
 
On the P38, V8's the cooler pipe (Steel)is 1/2" (.500") Outside diameter.
Brass compression fittings are easily available in many configurations which easily withstand the pressure-search "Wade" Imperial fittings. You can then get a hydraulic type hose made up with swaged ends which need to be 1/2" BSP. The thread on the Wade fittings is 1/2" BSP so it's easy to make up. Disconnect the pipe(s) at the engine end and then cut through the steel pipe as close to the swage as possible at the cooler end. It's easier then to cut the engine end off in a vice etc. This also means that you do not have to remove the cooler connection and can make the new pipe up in situ.
Google "Pirtek" for your hose assemblies, they have branches nationwide and can make the hoses up while you wait.
From first hand experience, the oil cooler connections are best left untouched as the nuts tend to corrode and sieze on the aluminium thread on the cooler and usually the threads on the cooler get ripped to pieces during removal attempts.


:behindsofa:

**This post refers to the engine oil cooler hoses, which I did myself a few years ago and worked a treat. Can't remember the size of the gearbox cooler hose steel pipe ends.

TIP
If you are replacing the hoses etc. for the engine oil cooler...take extra care when tightening the connection at the bottom of the timing cover. The threaded "Boss" does not have much metal around it and being "Over enthusiastic" when tightening the connection will crack the boss, which will result in replacing the complete front cover. I know this from first hand experience !!!:eek::eek:
 
So I completed changing my hoses today...

At first I removed my oil cooler from the car and all the pipework, and got it on the bench to grind off the swages.

So glad I did because it was nice to have the room to make a neat job of it, and not risk grinding anything important!

At first I just used hose clips (Miklor stainless) but the hoses popped off the end of the pipes (!) so I ended up buying some 1/3 inch Wade compression joints and doing it that way.

Glad I did too, the joints are strong and tight, and so far not leaking!

Shopping list was...

4 x Wade 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch BSP coupler.

1 metre Moquip 1/2 inch ID 100R6 hose

4 x 1/2 inch Female hose connector.

4 x Mikalor Stainless 19mm - 21mm hose clips.

I think I'd go down a size if I had my time again. (17mm - 19mm)

I had to modify the Wade fitting slightly to take the female hose connectors, if I had had the hoses made up by Pirtek (or Think Automotive) I wouldn't have had to do that, but I'd already bought the hose and clips for the first attempt and I didn't want to waste them!

I live around the corner from Think Automotive, who are a brilliant company selling oil coolers and pipework for sports cars etc, they were very helpful all the way though.

As was, Irishrover, TCubed, and 200tdi ayre.

Thank you very much, I'm oil tight again!
 
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