Number 4 injector

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youmitegetian

youmitegetian

Active Member
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Location
evesham
You peeps r awesome at helping, I haven't asked anything yet that you lot don't know, I'll find somat I'm sure ;-)))

Anyways, so my check engine light comes on occasionally, diag says its needle sensor, so number 4 injector needs replacing, anyone done the job? Is it easy? What's the chances of it being seized in? It's an occasional fault so no real rush to do the job, should I leave it o do it?
 
Easy job you need a special socket.Check the connections first. Which diagnostics said it was needle sensor?
 
youmitegetian said:
You peeps r awesome at helping, I haven't asked anything yet that you lot don't know, I'll find somat I'm sure ;-)))

Anyways, so my check engine light comes on occasionally, diag says its needle sensor, so number 4 injector needs replacing, anyone done the job? Is it easy? What's the chances of it being seized in? It's an occasional fault so no real rush to do the job, should I leave it o do it?
Click to expand...

could equally be a sticky switch on top of the fuel injection pump which regulates the fuel quantity to the engine. Do you lose power when the light comes on and get a delay when pressing the throttle? Does it happen most on overrun?

If so i suggest a few tanks with redex or similar added to try and clear the system and a good long motorway drive thrashing the engine at the end to purge the fuel and exhaust systems.

My manual still does it and I live with it by keeping the throttle half in when changing gear, this keeps a little fuel flowing and the turbo spooled up, putting ht power in well before you need it. Feels odd at first (if used to driving petrols) but actually you get used to it and when going back to driving petrols is sounds like your revving the guts out of it as you dont lift fully.
 
wammers said:
Easy job you need a special socket.Check the connections first. Which diagnostics said it was needle sensor?
Click to expand...

It was a generic diagnostic tool, hp I think, said I had codes 142, the needle valve and 25 glow relay intermittent, which the technician said meant the glow plugs probably need replacement, which makes sense cus if I leave the light to go out it starts ok but if I do it twice it starts instantly
 
No loss of power, although it doesn't like to rev for a few seconds after I start on a cold morning,and generally the light just flickers on as the revs drop through the thousand rpm mark, sometimes stays on during idle but mostly goes out once the revs settle
 
Ok sounds like you have two or three of glow plugs duff. But injector does not normally fail intermittently it either works or doesn't. So check the connections to it and to the timing solenoid on the lower rear of the pump. Before you shell out £180.00 on a new one. You maybe better finding someone with a Faultmate or Nanocom as you can check the function of the timing solenoid with those. Also they are specific to the P38 so a lot more reliable for sorting fault codes.
 
wammers said:
Ok sounds like you have two or three of glow plugs duff. But injector does not normally fail intermittently it either works or doesn't. So check the connections to it and to the timing solenoid on the lower rear of the pump. Before you shell out £180.00 on a new one. You maybe better finding someone with a Faultmate or Nanocom as you can check the function of the timing solenoid with those. Also they are specific to the P38 so a lot more reliable for sorting fault codes.
Click to expand...

Had one doing this Tony, on Faultmate the needle lift sensor output disappeared/returned in time with the engine light flicking on and off.
The bugger cleared off to the UK and said he was going to an indie for a second opinion which is fair enough but never came back to me with the result.:mad:
 
Datatek said:
Had one doing this Tony, on Faultmate the needle lift sensor output disappeared/returned in time with the engine light flicking on and off.
The bugger cleared off to the UK and said he was going to an indie for a second opinion which is fair enough but never came back to me with the result.:mad:
Click to expand...

Mine flicks on, on over run. But until BBS sort the needle sensor problem with Nanocom. Which i believe they have but not yet released the update. I am at a standstill in sorting it. However mine has a new injector so it ain't that causing it. I think it flicks on caused on this occasion by the fuel quantity potentiometer dropping past it's rest position because of a worn stop. Then being picked up again when the idle switch activates. I am also having problems with engine stalling from tickover now and again. I lifted the idle speed one notch which has not completely cured this but mostly. I am going to try and sort this when the better weather arrives if i can. But until then have to live with it.
 
wammers said:
Mine flicks on, on over run. But until BBS sort the needle sensor problem with Nanocom. Which i believe they have but not yet released the update. I am at a standstill in sorting it. However mine has a new injector so it ain't that causing it. I think it flicks on caused on this occasion by the fuel quantity potentiometer dropping past it's rest position because of a worn stop. Then being picked up again when the idle switch activates. I am also having problems with engine stalling from tickover now and again. I lifted the idle speed one notch which has not completely cured this but mostly. I am going to try and sort this when the better weather arrives if i can. But until then have to live with it.
Click to expand...

That's why I wasn't certain about the sensor. It does not seem possible to see a problem with the fuel quantity stop on diagnostics.
 
Datatek said:
That's why I wasn't certain about the sensor. It does not seem possible to see a problem with the fuel quantity stop on diagnostics.
Click to expand...

No you can't as such, symptom seems to be lamp flicking on when throttle is released on over run, or when cruise drops out, but i do have a fault that comes back of fuel quantity out of range. Major fault logged. Or something of the other, but i don't know if that is to do with chip in ECU or not. Will have a look at the pump if it gets too bad to live with.
 
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Ok so I changed the glow plugs today, and the manifold gaskets, what a pain they are lol, took me longer to clean off the old gasket than the rest of the job together, anyway what I discovered is that the number 4 injector wires are connected by spade connectors, I'm guessing this isn't standard, I was going to do the job correctly but they are cut so close to the loom that is was going to be a right pain, and I just didn't have the time, so I crimped them up tighter and had to put it back together as it was, amazingly it's now running with no engine light on but I'm guessing that will be a short lived thing but we'll see
 
youmitegetian said:
Ok so I changed the glow plugs today, and the manifold gaskets, what a pain they are lol, took me longer to clean off the old gasket than the rest of the job together, anyway what I discovered is that the number 4 injector wires are connected by spade connectors, I'm guessing this isn't standard, I was going to do the job correctly but they are cut so close to the loom that is was going to be a right pain, and I just didn't have the time, so I crimped them up tighter and had to put it back together as it was, amazingly it's now running with no engine light on but I'm guessing that will be a short lived thing but we'll see
Click to expand...

I take it it is a pre EGR unit then if it has gaskets. See how long it goes, bad connections are 90% of the problems on the leccy on the P38. Good luck.
 
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youmitegetian said:
Ok so I changed the glow plugs today, and the manifold gaskets, what a pain they are lol, took me longer to clean off the old gasket than the rest of the job together, anyway what I discovered is that the number 4 injector wires are connected by spade connectors, I'm guessing this isn't standard, I was going to do the job correctly but they are cut so close to the loom that is was going to be a right pain, and I just didn't have the time, so I crimped them up tighter and had to put it back together as it was, amazingly it's now running with no engine light on but I'm guessing that will be a short lived thing but we'll see
Click to expand...


Solder and heat shrink the joints when you have time:)
 
wammers said:
Mine flicks on, on over run. But until BBS sort the needle sensor problem with Nanocom. Which i believe they have but not yet released the update. I am at a standstill in sorting it. However mine has a new injector so it ain't that causing it. I think it flicks on caused on this occasion by the fuel quantity potentiometer dropping past it's rest position because of a worn stop. Then being picked up again when the idle switch activates. I am also having problems with engine stalling from tickover now and again. I lifted the idle speed one notch which has not completely cured this but mostly. I am going to try and sort this when the better weather arrives if i can. But until then have to live with it.
Click to expand...

Hi Wammers, Yes Nanocom have a beta in testing. However after several months of asking about it, the support guy asked me to beta test it. That was on 25th September 2012 and I confirmed it to be tested & working fine.

So I'm not sure why the delay. The file is BBSV1-12.zip.

I too spent £180 to replace the Needle lift Sensor only to find it was a software error. :mad:
 
eloteq said:
Hi Wammers, Yes Nanocom have a beta in testing. However after several months of asking about it, the support guy asked me to beta test it. That was on 25th September 2012 and I confirmed it to be tested & working fine.

So I'm not sure why the delay. The file is BBSV1-12.zip.

I too spent £180 to replace the Needle lift Sensor only to find it was a software error. :mad:
Click to expand...

There is another problem with mine maybe you could try yours and see if it's the same. Go onto Hevac button check. Where it shows GND or 12 Volts as button is pressed. All is good apart from when you select R/H heat up or down it shows as L/H up or down and vise versa.
 
wammers said:
There is another problem with mine maybe you could try yours and see if it's the same. Go onto Hevac button check. Where it shows GND or 12 Volts as button is pressed. All is good apart from when you select R/H heat up or down it shows as L/H up or down and vise versa.
Click to expand...

i'll check it out tomorrow for you
 
wammers said:
No you can't as such, symptom seems to be lamp flicking on when throttle is released on over run, or when cruise drops out, but i do have a fault that comes back of fuel quantity out of range. Major fault logged. Or something of the other, but i don't know if that is to do with chip in ECU or not. Will have a look at the pump if it gets too bad to live with.
Click to expand...

I get this exact error on my Nanocom with no chip.

I have been told the pump needs calibration? Can this be done from Nanocom??

Also, went through a large is puddle on Sunday, get engine manage t light come on, car stalls...
The only way to drive was using the auto box manually and keep the revs up, if I lifted accelerator it died. After few hours of parked up started it, little cough stall same about another 10 times then all ok....
 
jamesblake said:
I get this exact error on my Nanocom with no chip.

I have been told the pump needs calibration? Can this be done from Nanocom??

Also, went through a large is puddle on Sunday, get engine manage t light come on, car stalls...
The only way to drive was using the auto box manually and keep the revs up, if I lifted accelerator it died. After few hours of parked up started it, little cough stall same about another 10 times then all ok....
Click to expand...

Theoretically yes it can. BUT and it's a big but. None of the pump calibration numbers excepting the idle speed are named. So if you changed something you would not know what you are changing. Your problem the other day has got to be water getting at something it can't be a lot else. At least with your info i am a little further down the road. And can discard the ECU chip as a culprit.
 
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