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From: Cymro Gwirion<[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Your Opinions on ebay Series IIa please.
Newsgroups: alt.fan.landrover
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Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:18:35 -0500
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Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:
>On or around Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:19:36 -0500, Cymro
>Gwirion<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> In a recent post I gathered that Bulkhead and chassis are the two major
>>things to look for, and as I am unable to travel to see her before
>>bidding - I think this one might be a bit of a risk! I gather that
>>anything rather than a description of condition I should look for
>>regarding the bulkhead?
>
>Things to look for, when looking at an actual vehicle - top front corners
>(where that other one is patched), door posts, around the vents (open 'em
>and look under the vent panel) and footwells. All these are the places that
>bulkheads rot. Door posts are available as replacements, and not too hard
>to replace, so if you're sure the rest of the bulkhead is OK, iffy door
>posts are not necessarily a reason to reject a motor, but they are a reason
>to pay a bit less.
>
>As you say, galv. chassis is a big plus point, but reflected in the price -
>it also means the motor has been rebuilt as they didn't come like that - and
>people going to the expense and trouble of a new chassis generally don't put
>a crappy bulkhead on it. Replacement chassis is almost always done by an
>enthusiast who intends keeping the motor as it's no way worth doing just to
>sell it, unless it's something fantastically rare.
>
>points to look at on the chassis - rear crossmember, outriggers and the
>front ends where the front spring hanger is. You don't want to see rust
>holes, you don't want to see crappy repairs. bear in mind that any chassis
>with lots of patches on is suspect. Main frame tubes are not usually too
>bad, and if it's ONLY the back end, it's not too bad or expensive a repair -
>rear crossmembers, with or without extensions, are easily available and not
>very pricey - front legs likewise. however, if there are several of these
>wrong then the chances are the whole chassis is past its best.
>
>Often you'll see several small (about 2") patches on a chassis - this is a
>sign of poor repair work. If you just patch the hole you can see, then
>another hole is not far off... when you get a hole in a chassis due to rust,
>the whole area is suspect. I'd far rather see a nice big patch which runs
>from top to bottom of the chassis and about a foot long, than half a dozen
>little ones.
>
>Naturally, a chassis with extensive repairs, even if sound, is not as good
>as a tidy unrepaired one.
>
>>I think I will sift through ebay and maybe autotrader
>>tonight and have a look for some more. I intend to post them here -
>>maybe you would be so kind as to look at a few and give me your opinion. I
>>think this would help me understand what to look for and how to spot a
>>nice one. Though I look forward to looking after her once I own her - I
>>don't want a major project at this time. Thanks again for your answer.
>
>BTW, don't worry about posting links. You'll likely find that if any of us
>are nearby, someone will be able to come with you for a second opinion on a
>motor, as well.
>--
>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>"You praise the firm restraint with which they write -_
>I'm with you there, of course: They use the snaffle and the bit
>alright, but where's the bloody horse? - Roy Campbell (1902-1957)
Thanks very much again. Your advice is greatly appreciated. I'll pass on
this one I think, but look for a few other options. It would be easier
if I would settle for a 90 - but I have set my heart on a Series for
years!
--
Subject: Re: Your Opinions on ebay Series IIa please.
Newsgroups: alt.fan.landrover
User-Agent: OSXnews 2.081
Content-Type: text/plain
References: <[email protected]> <b95ca564e%[email protected]> <[email protected]> <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:18:35 -0500
Lines: 58
X-Trace: sv3-Zbo+1N8D6qAozQwko9kcSATYnGfS5gNTsAhcHOBryYjDB+8Q7x5aZ9g+5enw36rOP0hkl57GThsWF5X!qBMa0OXJEEJrYUAdFeLO1sAxm3fbzT5L981MFw2qpmX+erJqSUlLWV6cPOHkHQ==
X-Complaints-To: [email protected]
X-DMCA-Notifications: http://www.giganews.com/info/dmca.html
X-Abuse-and-DMCA-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers
X-Abuse-and-DMCA-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly
X-Postfilter: 1.3.32
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:
>On or around Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:19:36 -0500, Cymro
>Gwirion<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> In a recent post I gathered that Bulkhead and chassis are the two major
>>things to look for, and as I am unable to travel to see her before
>>bidding - I think this one might be a bit of a risk! I gather that
>>anything rather than a description of condition I should look for
>>regarding the bulkhead?
>
>Things to look for, when looking at an actual vehicle - top front corners
>(where that other one is patched), door posts, around the vents (open 'em
>and look under the vent panel) and footwells. All these are the places that
>bulkheads rot. Door posts are available as replacements, and not too hard
>to replace, so if you're sure the rest of the bulkhead is OK, iffy door
>posts are not necessarily a reason to reject a motor, but they are a reason
>to pay a bit less.
>
>As you say, galv. chassis is a big plus point, but reflected in the price -
>it also means the motor has been rebuilt as they didn't come like that - and
>people going to the expense and trouble of a new chassis generally don't put
>a crappy bulkhead on it. Replacement chassis is almost always done by an
>enthusiast who intends keeping the motor as it's no way worth doing just to
>sell it, unless it's something fantastically rare.
>
>points to look at on the chassis - rear crossmember, outriggers and the
>front ends where the front spring hanger is. You don't want to see rust
>holes, you don't want to see crappy repairs. bear in mind that any chassis
>with lots of patches on is suspect. Main frame tubes are not usually too
>bad, and if it's ONLY the back end, it's not too bad or expensive a repair -
>rear crossmembers, with or without extensions, are easily available and not
>very pricey - front legs likewise. however, if there are several of these
>wrong then the chances are the whole chassis is past its best.
>
>Often you'll see several small (about 2") patches on a chassis - this is a
>sign of poor repair work. If you just patch the hole you can see, then
>another hole is not far off... when you get a hole in a chassis due to rust,
>the whole area is suspect. I'd far rather see a nice big patch which runs
>from top to bottom of the chassis and about a foot long, than half a dozen
>little ones.
>
>Naturally, a chassis with extensive repairs, even if sound, is not as good
>as a tidy unrepaired one.
>
>>I think I will sift through ebay and maybe autotrader
>>tonight and have a look for some more. I intend to post them here -
>>maybe you would be so kind as to look at a few and give me your opinion. I
>>think this would help me understand what to look for and how to spot a
>>nice one. Though I look forward to looking after her once I own her - I
>>don't want a major project at this time. Thanks again for your answer.
>
>BTW, don't worry about posting links. You'll likely find that if any of us
>are nearby, someone will be able to come with you for a second opinion on a
>motor, as well.
>--
>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>"You praise the firm restraint with which they write -_
>I'm with you there, of course: They use the snaffle and the bit
>alright, but where's the bloody horse? - Roy Campbell (1902-1957)
Thanks very much again. Your advice is greatly appreciated. I'll pass on
this one I think, but look for a few other options. It would be easier
if I would settle for a 90 - but I have set my heart on a Series for
years!
--
