New wiring loom differences

I have finally recived my rear wiring loom form auto sparks and as expected it is very well made. I went for the "Defender 90/110 Chassis Harness AMR3449 / AMR5870 / YMD111080 with HRW and Rear Wiper."

I have worked out what all of the plugs are at the rear end as I am fitting it to a 2.5TD. The reason for the 300tdi loom is the bulkhead loom is a 300tdi. Because of the differences I have two questions:

Question 1: Lights
The 300tdi wiring loom is fitted up for the later style lights with multi pin plug into the back of the light unit. I currently have bullet connector lights. The bullet connectors are up in the rear tub protected from the elements whereas the multi pin plugs are on the back of the light unit exposed to the outside world. Do I change the lights to match the loom or do I swap the plugs for Lucas bullets (I have the correct crimping tool for this). Which is a more reliable system?

Question 2: Fuel sender
The fuel sender plug is different and I do not know why as they are both of a similar style with large pin connectors in a molded plug.
The old plug has more pins and more wires (2x black, 1x purple and white, 1x black and green, 1x blue and white)



The new plug only has 2 pins and two wires (1x black, 1x purple and white) And a multi pin plug again with two pins (1x black, 1x green and balck)



Same questions as above really do I buy a new fuel sender to match or do I alter the loom by soldering on the old plug? Also what the extra wires for (green black is fuel gauge) that means they are on separate plugs for the new loom?

dag019 said:

Question 1: Lights
The 300tdi wiring loom is fitted up for the later style lights with multi pin plug into the back of the light unit. I currently have bullet connector lights. The bullet connectors are up in the rear tub protected from the elements whereas the multi pin plugs are on the back of the light unit exposed to the outside world. Do I change the lights to match the loom or do I swap the plugs for Lucas bullets (I have the correct crimping tool for this). Which is a more reliable system?

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I changed my lights on my 1988 90 to the later ones, think I went through about 3/4 fog light plugs/harness as the pins broke off or corroded(probably due to lack of use. Personally I think the bullet connectors would be better

steve24v said:

I changed my lights on my 1988 90 to the later ones, think I went through about 3/4 fog light plugs/harness as the pins broke off or corroded(probably due to lack of use. Personally I think the bullet connectors would be better

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Thanks, I know one of my friends with a td5 is constantly having to blow out and WD40 his rear indicators as they constantly fill the plugs with water and stop working. As part of my rebuild one the loom is in I am planning on riveting some ali angle to the tub and hanging a piece of old conveyor belt as close to the rear lights as I can get it to try and add some protection for them.

l've never had this issue with my TD5 rear lights.

I have had aftermarket ones fill with water but since l went back to Land Rover OE it's been fine.

I would keep the euro plugs better water resistance ,you can remove the pins from the plastic housing with a cheap eBay tool for the job (that is if the loom cables are long enough ) and feed them through the tub floor and reinsert pins back in euro plug providing you re-bend the locating barb out again

Ok so the consensus seems to be to keep the later style light plugs, If they cause issues I can always extend the loom in the future back to the old fashioned bullet connectors.
What about the fuel sender?

any images of fuel sender ,do the cable exit the sender o

mystery said:

any images of fuel sender ,do the cable exit the sender o

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The pictures of the new loom and old loom plugs are all I have. The current sender fitted is just a standard '89 TD fuel sender (PRC8463) which on a quick google does not look to be prewired and instead used spades to connect? (link)

mystery said:

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Many thanks. At least that explains what they are for which I could not Find in my wiring diagram. I do t have a fuel pump good old fashioned mechanical lift pump only. So that just leaves the question of buy a new sender or modify the loom to fit my old one. Which is the better option?

Or another option maybe, is AMR1494 (link) a wiring loom to convert exactly what I am trying to do?

Two open barrel female tabs and shrouds a pair of open barrel crimpers two snips and the jobs done why complicate things
you will find on the wire diagram C114 becomes C113 with the Engine Control Module and alarm

mystery said:

you can remove the pins from the plastic housing with a cheap eBay tool for the job

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What tool do I need to dismantle the connectors? I run my wiring loom in conduit along the top of the chassis rail rather than through the chassis. To do this it needs to fit through the arches in the tub support mount and although I will measure the chassis I do not expect it will fit through these gaps with the plugs in place.

is there a brand name on the connectors supplied by auto sparks or a quick call to them for the info on plug brand and pin types

mystery said:

is there a brand name on the connectors supplied by auto sparks or a quick call to them for the info on plug brand and pin types

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they are the same as factory, it is a direct replacement loom

mystery said:

View attachment 271620 View attachment 271618 View attachment 271619 View attachment 271622 View attachment 271621

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Many thanks, I have small jewelers screwdrivers so no tools needed. I will have a go at removing the plugs, and wrapping the loom ready for feeding through the chassis.

does not need any force so gently with the screw driver so as not to damage plastic locking barb ,lift it just enough to release the pin and mark colour and pin numbers in case you have problems https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13366222...e45628f8110971f9c2748&pid=100903&rk=1&rkt=20%