New loom issues ?

In the process of fitting a complete new wiring loom from 'Autosparks'. When I ordered it I asked for a full loom. I was asked if I wanted to fit an upgrade from dynamo to alternator, which means I can get faster and more efficient charging. I said it would make sense to do that. So, I have fitted an alternator and got rid of my regulator ( nice ! ).
I have been fitting it to the vehicle, starting at the engine bay. All fitted nicely through the bulkhead to feed the instruments behind the panel. All wires are easy to understand as I took lots of pictures before removal of the old fire damaged loom.
The wires which go to the tail lights I have not decided how to route them. The reason I had a small fire in the wiring, was something causing a short inside the chassis rail ! Someone suggested that a galvanised chassis may have sharp shards of hot dip galv inside the chassis which could cause a similar problem in the future. They advise that the loom is attached to the upper part of the outside of the chassis rail. It makes sense to me.
I also have trailer socket extension with my loom, which looks easy enough to fit.
I was very confused when I found that the head light wires did not reach anywhere near my floor mounted dip switch ? Also the wires in the engine compartment don't reach anywhere near the front lights ?
After studying all the pictures and wiring diagrams I could find, and going to 'Autosparks' website, it all began to make sense...…….Although I ordered a complete loom, it did not include the short extension which goes from the rear of the panel down to the dip switch, neither did it include the extensions which join the main loom near the rear of the air filter and reach forward to the lights. Apparently the ones which go to the lights are called 'Pigtails'.
Has this confused anyone else doing a Landy loom replacement apart from me ?
Could I ask for opinions on whether to run the rear wires 'inside' or 'outside' the chassis please ?

If you're upgrading from a dynamo, then I assume it's an older model...S2A?

I've got a new Autosparks loom on my '79 S3 rebuild, but my main beam light switch is on the stalk, so I don't have your problem with the foot switch.

I have chosen to run the rear body loom outside the chassis, although in my case it's because Richards wended the mounting brackets for my internal roll cage to the rear of the chassis over the top of the loom exit hole, and didn't leave a gap for me to get the cables out!

I've not fitted the bodywork yet, but I've used cable ties fixed with self tapping screws to run the loom down the inside of the right hand chassis rail (just above the brake pipe) from the front to behind the fuel tank, then taking it over the top of the chassis rail and down the top edge of the outer side for the back part. Length of the loom seems fine.

And yeah, I realised i needed the pigtails late, too - ordered those from a vendor on ebay.

Other loom extensions I got from Autosparks are for the brake fail circuit, and and hazard flashers, but those probably don't apply to an older model. I was going to make up my own wiring for the trailer socket.

Oh, I also ran a couple of additional wires along with the new loom for heated rear window, fog light and reversing camera!

I can try and take some photos of my cable routing if it would be useful, although as I said, I've not fitted any bodywork yet, so I've not proved I won't actually have any problems...

inside the chassis with pvc tubing fitted over harness if connection will not pass through tube then split pvc tubing grommets at entry and exit points and a spare draw wire for future use .
found using small fibreglass rods flexible enough to push along chassis from front enter and exit out of rear bolt hole ,pulled draw wire through and then hooked wire by rear exit hole in chassis .
would check Auto sparks wiring harness for correct colour cable ,thread on here where toms harness the fog and head light colour where crossed at fuse board on defender us and uy

TheMegaMan said:

I have chosen to run the rear body loom outside the chassis, although in my case it's because Richards wended the mounting brackets for my internal roll cage to the rear of the chassis over the top of the loom exit hole, and didn't leave a gap for me to get the cables out!

Click to expand...

I have the loom running along the outside of the chassis along the top of the rail on both my series III and my 110. I fitted the loom in PVC conduit, then wrapped in tape and sealed the ends, makes replacemnt in future easier as well as fault finding as you can see all of the loom to spot any chaffing etc.