Need a bulkhead but what will fit ?

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landowner

Pensioner Pete
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Need a bulkhead for my 1984 110 V8 and was wondering if a later one would fit.
As long as the bellhousing will fit in I'm not worried as I'm going to have to make a 'new' tunnel cover because the old one is crap and falling to bits so a bespoke one it is.

I'm prepared to modify fixing holes etc., so that's OK.

So will a split screen series one fit as I need a new screen anyway so if one pops up cheap :) ?

Or maybe a later one of about 1990s would be better, I think Craddock have one on fleabay.

Also a step by step fitting thread woud be useful, if not I'll photo the swap when I get round to doing mine.:)
 
Need a bulkhead for my 1984 110 V8 and was wondering if a later one would fit.
As long as the bellhousing will fit in I'm not worried as I'm going to have to make a 'new' tunnel cover because the old one is crap and falling to bits so a bespoke one it is.

I'm prepared to modify fixing holes etc., so that's OK.

So will a split screen series one fit as I need a new screen anyway so if one pops up cheap :) ?

Or maybe a later one of about 1990s would be better, I think Craddock have one on fleabay.

Also a step by step fitting thread woud be useful, if not I'll photo the swap when I get round to doing mine.:)

i put a td5 one on my 85 90 ,il load up some photos for you during the week (just about to head off to bed) , its a very easy thing to do , a small bit of faffing around but nothing youy wont be able to handle.

go to a main dealer , they are cheaper , but you must ask for a td5 dash panel assembly. a bulkhead fort an 84 vehicle will cost you in the region of £1000 , one for a td5 will cost less than £200.
paddocks will send you out a britpart bulkhead , they arnt too bad but your better off with a genuine part.

dont ask for a bulkhead , thats the bit behind the seats and they are very expencive.

you will need a few other bits as well , plugs to screw the dash in to , riv nuts for the steering and heater and a few other bits.

a series windscreen will fit but a defender roof wont fit a series windscreen.
 
I did a change back in Easter it was not a difficult job, time consuming though and if you want to make a really good job of it (with it all stripped down its the best time to do SO many things to your landrover).

As said above you can get the new bulkheads cheaper and they fit, the one I bought was brand new but had sat for years so I think it was a 300tdi and it fit no bother. There is a big hole for the loom in the middle my new one didn't have it so out with the hole saw.

I reckon it cost me about £200 to do the complete swap (I got my bulkhead for £60) this includes every nut and bolt, new seals everywhere, new hinges, all the little clips and fasteners etc...

I will PM you my Paddocks order list as I prepared for months in advance and managed to for one have everything right there when I needed it!

When you get the new bulkhead, painted or not I would strongly recommend you rub it all down, pay close attention to the seams where metal meets and cover EVERY square inch of seam with seam sealer (a sort of grey putty stuff for sealing up car body panels and things). Then you can paint the whole thing. I would put a good few coats onto the outside of the foot wells as the water runs down them from the windscreen - also just pay attention to where the worst rust is on your old one. I filled the channel sections with waxoyle too.

I also painted fibre glass resin onto the bottoms of my interior/exterior foot wells, this gives them a good tough coating that will not chip and rust, helps to deaden noise slightly and makes them easier to clean.

I could go on all day but I think that is enough for just now, I will post more later.
 

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I was going to buy a new 300tdi 90 chassis and I mentioned to the guy that I was also looking for a bulkhead and he said I have two here do you want one, it was £100 for a fully populated 300tdi bulkhead and £60 for a fully painted new 300tdi bare bulkhead so I went for it.

Looking back I should have probably gone for the populated one and then worried about the wiring differences but it might have saved some time.

I will get my paddocks list posted when I get a minute (its still in paper copy form). I reckon I can also find other lists from other shops for the other bits and pieces I needed.

My whole mindset; as with most landy owners, was rust prevention. I spent a lot of time researching materials and there suitability to come up with a process that I think has given my bulkhead extra strength, some sound deadening properties and sealed it up against the elements.

Once you have everything in pieces I think its worth starting on getting everything like new for the rebuild. I did this as I went along, and it cost me a lot of time waiting for paint to dry. The steering column, pedal boxes, heater, door catches, bulkhead to chassis mounts, air filter assy (if metal) should all be rubbed down, primed and painted, it will take a couple of hours, and when your looking for the next bit during the rebuild, its looking good and ready to go on. It’s a big job and I think it’s the best time to do these things.

With the roof off I also prepared the top edges of my tub and painted them, it’s about the only way you can fully paint them when the roof is not in place.

So allocate yourself about an extra day for preparation and painting of things.
 
With the roof off I also prepared the top edges of my tub and painted them, it’s about the only way you can fully paint them when the roof is not in place.

So allocate yourself about an extra day for preparation and painting of things.

ROOF OFF :eek:

How BIG a job is it ?

I was thinking, doors off, wings off, undo steering, brakes and wiring, angle grinder next, then pop it all back together, Three weeks tops:D :D :D
 
taking the roof off takes about half an hour.

Removal of wings takes about the same.

Your floor bolts will probably be rusty too, but with care you can get them out.

You gotta get the roof off anyway to take the windscreen frame out, i think.
 
taking the roof off takes about half an hour.

Removal of wings takes about the same.

Your floor bolts will probably be rusty too, but with care you can get them out.

You gotta get the roof off anyway to take the windscreen frame out, i think.
Floors out already, worried a bit about the wings as I havn't a clue where the bolts are, roof and screen need sealing anyway so whats to worry about :) .
Just finding a cheap bulkhead, that's the problem now.:)
 

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Ive heard roomers of galvanised bulk heads. Ive patched up my bulk head with expanding foam, fiberglass and filler. But rust coming through under the dash means this job is all too inebitable. I would probaly have done the bulk head by now if i dident think holes are about to appear in my chassis.

Galvanise your landrovers while you have the chance!
 
you wont need to take the roof off , il have a hunt for some photos and post em up.

No you don't need to take the roof off, but take it off anyway, as boydy says its a half hour job, you undo 4 main bolts, 2 at each side of the back door, drop the seatbelts from the seatbelt hanger, undo the interior light wire, drop the headlining at the front and undo the 4/5 bolts that bolt the roof to the window then run a knife along the seam between the windscreen and roof, undo the top hinge on the back door and lift the fooker off. Then you can sort out tub rust, paint the roof etc... It also gives you more room to work with.

Reagrding the rebuild and swapping everything over you can do it a few ways, A: By disconnecting everything you need to get the buklhead free then if you have the man power to hand, lift the bulkhead off fully populated: pedal boxes, steering, dash and take it somewhere you can work on the old and new side by side - you will need to make a basic frame to hold them both up while you transer things over.

B: strip it right down in situ, remove the emptry bulkhead, put the new one on and build from the ground up.

C: a combination of them both, where you remove the old one intact and them remove bits and move them over to the new one in situ.

Woods767 the rumours you heard are true, you can get them galvanised, if you go for one of these get them galvanised, don't send it off yourself unless you can brace it all up first as the galv process warps them if you don't.
 
landowner, removng the wings is easy too - if you look at my 300 tdi thread i did it the other day.

Basicarlly:
Unplug lighting/washer bottle depending on what side you are doing
Remove hose from expansion tank OR remove expansion tank
One or two bolts to the sills
Remove grill And bonnet panel and rad
one or two bolts at the front to the chassis
4 bolts down the back edge to the bulkhead - remove the eyebrows this makes it so much easier, on the nearside you will have to loose then heater box to get to the top bolt
Couple of screws that hold it to the pedalbox/foot area
Then finally/probably a bolt in the back of the top panel.

Then lift if off! Normally the lifting is easily done by one person, but a mate is useful to see what its caught on, and persuade it round the turrets.
 
Thanks Mr B ...that is interesting,
Looking at that, couldn't one disconnect the hinged windscreen from the bulkhead and then remove the bulkhead leaving the windsceen and surround in place:) ?
I'll have a look when I go up to see it tomorrow but the way things are looking it's getting bodged for now and I'll concentrate on getting the T/B box on and refurbing the front axle/diff.
Maybe get it done before the MOT and actually get to drive it around a bit before I tackle moving the gas tank....but that's another problem:rolleyes:

thanks for info everyone :) :)

Just had a read through and think the roof will come off when the time comes, I can refurb it and make it like new , and paint/ waterproof it as well.
Turning into a project this landy, just what I didn't want
 
By leaving the window hanging you would have hellfire trouble getting the bulkhead UP and out.

When I did my bulkhead taking the roof off and refitting it was a doddle, it probably accounted for about 40minutes of work overall and made things easier.

Your worrying about this roof it would seem, to be honest you should be worrying more about getting your ignition barrel off the steering and its not even that big a deal - you need to punch the security bolts round and out as they have domed heads where they shear off after they are tightened. I used a sharp punch and just knocked them round.
 
By leaving the window hanging you would have hellfire trouble getting the bulkhead UP and out.


Your worrying about this roof it would seem, to be honest you should be worrying more about getting your ignition barrel off the steering and its not even that big a deal - you need to punch the security bolts round and out as they have domed heads where they shear off after they are tightened. I used a sharp punch and just knocked them round.

Point taken, roof off it is then :)
Makes sense when you think about it I suppose.
The ignition barrel is off and zip tied to the dash at the moment, it came off easy, just carefully undid the shear bolts as the heads were still on. Key stuck in lock so I fixed it and fitted a starter button while it was off (yer cant beat a started button to fire up a V8):D
I'm new to Land Rovers so a bit wary about tackling big jobs, but having said that I've got the front floors out and the seat boxes off for repair as well as changing the T/B box, so give me time and I'll do the lot, it all seams easy enough:)

P.S. impact screwdriver usually undoes shearbolts, slot with a dremel if tight.
 
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