Nanocom for P38 anyone west midlands?

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Kerbz13

Kerbz13

Member
Posts
12
Location
West Midlands
Evening everyone. Could anyone help me out with a nanocom West Midlands, I cannot get the SRS light to go out this time and mot is in a few weeks. My car is a petrol 2001 vogue. I'm based Stourbridge /hagley way. Thanks in advance?...
 
It's not hard to take the dash out. The drivers kick panel just under the steering column, right hand side.
The official notes say to disconnect the battery for 30 mins before meeting with SRS connections, including the connection to the dash - so you don't fire an airbag by mistake
 
kermit_rr said:
You don't need a nano. The light will go out once you get rid of the problem, eg the connector under the seat or under the kick panel.
Also check both bulbs are good in the dash
Click to expand...
I disagree…I required a new fuse box to fix mine. The fact the nano wouldn’t connect to the srs system led to the fuse box voltage being interrogated. Those who have wiggled a connector and fixed the problem are lucky, the nano will identify which system is likely to blame in the first instance.
 
doriz said:
I disagree…I required a new fuse box to fix mine. The fact the nano wouldn’t connect to the srs system led to the fuse box voltage being interrogated. Those who have wiggled a connector and fixed the problem are lucky, the nano will identify which system is likely to blame in the first instance.
Click to expand...
Yes fuse box is a weak spot that can can all sorts of problems.
My point is 9 times out of 10 nano isn't needed, though yes it can help. SRS issues are often a dodgy wire/connection
 
I've had the clocks out of mine around 5 times, easy enough, don't forget to disconnect the fuel flap electrical connector and reconnect it after. Move the steering column around to get access to the screws, the 2 by the shroud are a fiddle and getting the 4 long ones that hold the clocks in can be a bugger to replace, get them wrong and the binnacle won't go back on. Both bulbs for the srs are on the back, if one pops the warning light comes on.yellow srs plug is under the knee panel which has to come off to get the binnacle out, 4 screws with caps on, ping them off with a flat blade screwdriver but remove those 2 awkward screws by the shroud first.
My knee panel has a crotch cooler vent , not sure if they all do, which will need pulling off, careful not to strain the flexi hoover pipe behind cos they tear. I can't remember if there are screws hidden behind the hvac panel as I had all that out as well at the time.
 
Flossie said:
I've had the clocks out of mine around 5 times, easy enough, don't forget to disconnect the fuel flap electrical connector and reconnect it after. Move the steering column around to get access to the screws, the 2 by the shroud are a fiddle and getting the 4 long ones that hold the clocks in can be a bugger to replace, get them wrong and the binnacle won't go back on. Both bulbs for the srs are on the back, if one pops the warning light comes on.yellow srs plug is under the knee panel which has to come off to get the binnacle out, 4 screws with caps on, ping them off with a flat blade screwdriver but remove those 2 awkward screws by the shroud first.
My knee panel has a crotch cooler vent , not sure if they all do, which will need pulling off, careful not to strain the flexi hoover pipe behind cos they tear. I can't remember if there are screws hidden behind the hvac panel as I had all that out as well at the time.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this 👍👍
 
Rather than disconnecting the battery, remove Fuse-7 from BECM fuses (drivers seat), and Fuse-23 in engine bay fusebox. Those remove power from the SRS system, so it cannot go off !!

Then check and clean all the SRS connections.


SRS Fuse-7 is 10A top row 4th from right
1706607070835.png



SRS Fuse 23 is on its own near relays R8 & R11.
1706607170346.png
 
There are two srs plugs beside each seat beneath the plastic sill trim, one inside and above the glove box. These also cause the light to come along with any one of the two srs bulbs that can fail on the dash (same symptoms). Any corrosion on these plugs and they can be cut off and hard wired/connected as the plugs are only for assembly at the factory. The corrosion causes low resistance and sets a fault.👍
 
When taking the instruments out, you only need to undo the 4 screws enough to allow the cluster to disengage from the metal brackets. They usually stay in the plastic. That way you don't risk dropping the screws down somewhere inaccessible.

When re-installing put all 4 screws so there's about 0.5mm protruding at the back. This makes is easier to get them aligned in the brackets.

If you forget to re-plug the fuel flap switch, you will only remember next time you go to fill up !! (guess how I know this?)
 
Both bulbs checked today, both OK. Srs goes off for a moment but returns. Both underseats yellow connectors cleaned. Where do I go now.?
Is there not a computer type thing that will tell where the fault is?
 
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