Mud flaps, bonnet latch for '85 90

Smashed bottom of the OS rear indicator lens on the 90 at the weekend. Think it may have been a stone flicked up from back wheel.

No great problem to replace, but it's put me in the market for some rear mud flaps. We've not had her long and she didn't come with any flaps - or rather she came with some rusted up brackets where flaps used to be and the remains of some bits of rubber.

Looking around the usual places (John Craddock etc) and I'm a bit confused. Did the design of flaps for the 90 change at any point? Some seem to be specified for later models, but I'm not sure if that's just a lack of attention to detail on the websites. They all look pretty similar in photos...

Another little job that needs doing is the bonnet. Has a tendency to come loose on its latch, hasn't flown off yet but I'd like to sort it before it does! It's not really obvious how I'd adjust it, so I'm wondering if a couple of extra latches might be a good idea. Any thoughts? I've seen enough Landys with extra latches over the years to think maybe this is a common thing and extra latches are the easiest solution.

The ones with extra latches are often military or ex military. One thing to do is make sure it is free to move and oiled [ not WD40 ] Another is to loosen the latch unit until you can just move it about side to side and then shut the bonnet to centre the latch. Open again and tighten latch with care not to move it.
Ensure bonnet pin if straight.

Gwyn Lewis dose a good flap package that does more in that they protect the underparts from mud build up as well.

tottot said:

Gwyn Lewis dose a good flap package that does more in that they protect the underparts from mud build up as well.

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Plenty of room for improvement on the standard flap set-up.

I modified mine using parts cut out of the side of a plastic oil drum.

If you are gonna start messing with the latch, take the grill off first cos if you get the adjustment all screwy at least you can get to the cable.

Fred on here a while ago about bonnet kept popping open, If I remember the latch pin needed turning as it was worn

Now who was it
stab at @Wimblowdriver
J

Turboman said:

Plenty of room for improvement on the standard flap set-up.

I modified mine using parts cut out of the side of a plastic oil drum.

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Was Mr heath Robinson you relative.

J

marjon said:

Was Mr heath Robinson you relative.

J

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Standard flaps are useless, they don't prevent road crud being flung up onto the front outrigger.
Rectangle of plastic attached under the two screws that hold the wheel arch in, and overlapping the outrigger at the bottom prevents all of that.

The rear flaps aren't much better, right at the back of the vehicle, they prevent stones being flung out and breaking following drivers windscreens, but do nothing to protect the uncoated as standard rear chassis of your own vehicle.

Turboman said:

Standard flaps are useless, they don't prevent road crud being flung up onto the front outrigger.
Rectangle of plastic attached under the two screws that hold the wheel arch in, and overlapping the outrigger at the bottom prevents all of that.

The rear flaps aren't much better, right at the back of the vehicle, they prevent stones being flung out and breaking following drivers windscreens, but do nothing to protect the uncoated as standard rear chassis of your own vehicle.

Click to expand...

You just know I am going to have a look tomorrow now dont you.

J

marjon said:

You just know I am going to have a look tomorrow now dont you.

J

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Saves a lot of welding and messing around later if you make a few small mods now.
You can do it in a way that isn't really visible from outside the vehicle.

Put home made extra flaps much like the Gwyn Lewis ones on mine some 27 years ago. My rear crossmember is still original. Along with good clean and oiling once a year it has kept the R bug at bay.

marjon said:

Now who was it
stab at @Wimblowdriver

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Wasn't me. And please, don't stab me

Here are a few photos of my 1985 90" setup. The standard flaps are from Rimmers, the genuine ones are more expensive, but last longer in my experience - as long as you're not doing much off roading. The other two bits are cut from 3mm rubber sheet. Really cheap and easy to cut - you can protect the fuel filler tube and battery box as well as the chassis.

Holy thread resurrection Batman!

So I mentioned in the OP I’d like to sort the bonnet latch. I’m finally starting to think about this. Went to have a look at the bonnet and… as far as I can tell it’s had a TD5 bonnet fitted at some point!

I’m not TOO bothered by this, the vehicle is hardly concours or original (200 TDI fitted at some point as well). But I’m wondering if the TD5 bonnet fit would account for the poor latching. The underside metalwork is completely different, but are they the same dimensions/interchangeable with the ~1983-1998 bonnet?

(Put another way - am I wasting my time/polishing a tvrd trying to get a TD5 bonnet to nicely fit a 1985 90?)