MOT / Rust / Will this pass???

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It does need work…. but it can be done.

Of course everyone has different views, maybe the users that said to scrap it use their landys as everyday cars and cant afford to have it off the road for so long…or cant weld, or cant be bothered with the hassle.

but also note that those views were related to giving the job to someone to do it… the cost of repairs would be more than what the vehicle is worth, but then again, the disco might be worth more to you.

I would go for repair as in my case I don't use my disco everyday, only goes out when I go green lanning….
Mine has **** loads of extras, so will always be worth repairing it, and I love it….
even if I would spend 600quid to repair anything on mine… I would repair it.

I have a MIG welder, a mate used to be a professional welder building gates, stairs, etc….
it's all a question of time, patience and loving it.
 
why don't you go to your local steel place and get a sheet of 1.6mm mild steel, you will have more than enough steel to do the work plus some left over??

when i did the boot floor in my disco i just welded a flat sheet of steel in :)
 
[JP];797993 said:
It does need work…. but it can be done.

Of course everyone has different views, maybe the users that said to scrap it use their landys as everyday cars and cant afford to have it off the road for so long…or cant weld, or cant be bothered with the hassle.

but also note that those views were related to giving the job to someone to do it… the cost of repairs would be more than what the vehicle is worth, but then again, the disco might be worth more to you.

I would go for repair as in my case I don't use my disco everyday, only goes out when I go green lanning….
Mine has **** loads of extras, so will always be worth repairing it, and I love it….
even if I would spend 600quid to repair anything on mine… I would repair it.

I have a MIG welder, a mate used to be a professional welder building gates, stairs, etc….
it's all a question of time, patience and loving it.
Click to expand...

the guy i work for sold his gas welder, i think gas and now just have a electric one, i might invest in one and see what i can get done myself,

as you said mines just for off roading and what not. . so i dont mind it being off road and the money ive put into the engine and extras to me its worth fixing. i know it all can be swapped over. . but i like the dents and scratches on this one!!!

on the rear x member does that need cutting out or are the bolted on?? ive not really had a look at it?? im going to guess its welded on though!?

also with the plans i have for it i might as well look into overhauling the chassis, side sills etc and other body mounts and giving it a body lift while i do it!! ive got plenty of time on my hands!!
 
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iannotts said:
why don't you go to your local steel place and get a sheet of 1.6mm mild steel, you will have more than enough steel to do the work plus some left over??

when i did the boot floor in my disco i just welded a flat sheet of steel in :)
Click to expand...

good plan got a few around here.. is it expensive? cause new floor is just £60
 
one of my mates did that..just a flat sheet of metal, but remember to cut a hole for the lift pump, just in case!

dont know about the rear x member, but i've heard it's a real pain to do it.
Mine will have to be done before next MOT, but I think I might just get away with replacing one of the supports....
 
[JP];798009 said:
one of my mates did that..just a flat sheet of metal, but remember to cut a hole for the lift pump, just in case!

dont know about the rear x member, but i've heard it's a real pain to do it.
Mine will have to be done before next MOT, but I think I might just get away with replacing one of the supports....
Click to expand...

im gonna strip down the back this weekend i think have a look, take the floor out etc etc!!

i dont mind about pains, its a good challenge!! and an excuse to mod some more!!
 
having seen the fllor pics. If that's the extent of the rot then it's deffo repairable. Forget about a rear crossmember get 2mtrs of 100mmx 50mm x 4mm box section. Remove bumper and cut enuff of the cross member away to allow you to get the box section in place weld the body mount to it and then weld the fooker to the remainder of the crossmember it'll be a damn sight easier than replacing the whole crossmember and 10 times stronger. If removing the rear seats you'll have to inform DVLA & insurance that it's a 2 seater. If you are removing the seats extend the floor all the way to the back of the front seats and it will give you loads more storage capacity. If you discover the sills are gone as well then I'd scrap it but if you want to keep it replace them with box section as well. (see Dafts Tuftee Thread )
 
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redhand said:
having seen the fllor pics. If that's the extent of the rot then it's deffo repairable. Forget about a rear crossmember get 2mtrs of 100mmx 50mm x 4mm box section. Remove bumper and cut enuff of the cross member away to allow you to get the box section in place weld the body mount to it and then weld the fooker to the remainder of the crossmember it'll be a damn sight easier than replacing the whole crossmember and 10 times stronger. If removing the rear seats you'll have to inform DVLA & insurance that it's a 2 seater. If you are removing the seats extend the floor all the way to the back of the front seats and it will give you loads more storage capacity. If you discover the sills are gone as well then I'd scrap it but if you want to keep it replace them with box section as well. (see Dafts Tuftee Thread )
Click to expand...

yea that is the extent, im gonna look at the sills this weekend, so just clean up cut away **** off the x member and use box section across the lot to repair it??

yea dont mind telling the Dvla about the seats etc, but if the damage isnt too bad on the arches to repair ill leave it how it is!

do you reckon i can patch the floor or is it worth just replacing it?
 
If it were me, I'd get a replacement floor.

Have a look at the outer floor sections too, poke and prod and see what condition they are in.

Regarding the rear cross member, I'd chop the whole lot out and put a new one in to be honest. If it's that bad, the chances are the rest of the metal will be **** quality, and that means welding to it will be a pig. If you can get a decent arc going it will blow through all the thin crispy bits, I'd change the whole rear section myself, and I'm a professional welder by trade.

The good news is, if someone asked me I'd say it's repairable (taking on-board you saying the sills and the rest of the chassis etc are fine), but the cost of doing the job would come pretty close to the vehicle's value, I'd cost the job at about £500, personally.

What I don't really agree is that Discoverys for £500 with 12months MOT that aren't going to have very similar rust issues themselves are ten a penny though.
 
Matt TDi said:
If it were me, I'd get a replacement floor.

Have a look at the outer floor sections too, poke and prod and see what condition they are in.

Regarding the rear cross member, I'd chop the whole lot out and put a new one in to be honest. If it's that bad, the chances are the rest of the metal will be **** quality, and that means welding to it will be a pig. If you can get a decent arc going it will blow through all the thin crispy bits, I'd change the whole rear section myself, and I'm a professional welder by trade.

The good news is, if someone asked me I'd say it's repairable (taking on-board you saying the sills and the rest of the chassis etc are fine), but the cost of doing the job would come pretty close to the vehicle's value, I'd cost the job at about £500, personally.

What I don't really agree is that Discoverys for £500 with 12months MOT that aren't going to have very similar rust issues themselves are ten a penny though.
Click to expand...

well finding one with out any rust issues for £500 would be difficult, and this seems to be the extent of the rust, ill just get to stripping it down and see what i find, i might go with replacing the whole rear x member seems the sensible thing to do,

[JP];798152 said:
If you need the panel next to the floor, that goes around the wheel arch....

Land Rover Discovery Rear inner wing repair panel L/H on eBay (end time 01-Jul-09 18:27:46 BST)
Click to expand...

cheers for the link! might nab that and replace the lot in the boot just not the main floop panel
 
Lol I am wondering how this managed to be a 6 page thread!

"MOT / Rust / Will this pass???"

NO!

It is more than clear that he is going to fix the rust at any cost!

So good luck mate.
 
the daddy said:
Lol I am wondering how this managed to be a 6 page thread!

"MOT / Rust / Will this pass???"

NO!

It is more than clear that he is going to fix the rust at any cost!

So good luck mate.
Click to expand...

well there is a bit of useful post in there for me to consider, i.e using box sections and sheet steel instead of oem parts etc

but cheers
 
I'm currently in the process of doing all the same work and more (top end rebuilt) to mine mate. Is my first project but as long as you have plenty of time all seems pretty straight forward - and costs next to nothing if you do all the work yourself! Plus you learn how to weld along the way :)
 
Just ignor all the negative comments mate its a straightforward repair job.
It will take a bit of time but is easily done. Get yourself a gasless mig welder £150-200 will get you a good one capable of the job.( lots will say get a gas mig but a gasless will use gas as well ) and some sheet steel About £20 for a large sheet (from most big body panel centres) and start welding.
The more you practice the better it will get so start on the non structural areas first.
It dosnt matter what the car is worth if you want to do it then do it.
Once its done make sure you seal it all up and then plenty of underseal it will last for years. Then you know it has all been done.

Good luck mate.
 
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