M14x1.5 thread taper tool

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indeed I do , plus got some combined drill/ taps which I’ll put the item into a vice and use a pillar drill so it goes into the object straight and true , plus when I use the pillar drill find it easier adding some 3/1 oil at the same time

alas only a small pillar drill but ideal for many jobs

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My pillar drill is very similar to yours, as you say good for small jobs. I never put it on anything other than "slow"!
 
fingers crossed the OP doesn’t have to buy another hub, have found many threads getting stripped or damaged by the use of air guns, where they put the nut or bolt into the airgun then trying to do them up instead of doing them up a few threads by hand first

have nuts on mine, so at least if a thread got stripped I can knock them out and replace them over replacing the entire hub

my pops useto do that with a bolt, putting it into a vice and cutting several threads length ways, then heating and quenching , if I remember rightly he useto put grease on the bolt prior to heating it

also bought some cheap taps and they snapped inside the thread, one was on a cylinder head where the exhaust bolt studs were, taught me a lesson when to buy good tools for a certain application, so over the years thrown away rubbish and replaced it with the best I could afford
I expect all of us have done the "Snapped Eezeeout" or "snapped tap" number!":(:(:(
I was glad I avoided it when doing the broken exhaust studs on the TD5!:):):)

I did wonder if it was worth mentioning to start the tap from the back of the hub, rather than the front as once it's been cross threaded it may well be tricky to get it into exactly the right position.
This is what I would do anyway!
We all have little old skool tricks and i love how we can share them here!!!:):):)
 
BTW, do you use WD-40 or penetrating oil? I have used penetrating oil to challenge stubborn and rusty bolts. I am not sure if torch fire + water would be another better option to remove damaged thread.

hiya

for stuck bolts etc I use plus gas, for really struck bolts heating them up is also a very good way to get them out , personally use 3-1 oil when using a tap/die

Is it just one thread that’s bad plse or several , hopefully u won’t need to replace the entire hub

hope that helps
 
My pillar drill is very similar to yours, as you say good for small jobs. I never put it on anything other than "slow"!

Indeed , would be lost without it as it’s been invaluable for the little jobs , plus 1 , got it on its slowest setting , also got a reasonably heavy vice, reminds me I must get round bolting it to the base , lol, took me ages to find a vice that had the X / Y adjustment

will be so nice when I finish the spare bedroom as turning it into a workshop where I can put everything into bins etc , stored properly as drives me nuts when I can’t find something

the new tool cabinet I recently got has made a lot of difference regarding the organisation of my tools, really need another one, lol

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I expect all of us have done the "Snapped Eezeeout" or "snapped tap" number!":(:(:(
I was glad I avoided it when doing the broken exhaust studs on the TD5!:):):)

I did wonder if it was worth mentioning to start the tap from the back of the hub, rather than the front as once it's been cross threaded it may well be tricky to get it into exactly the right position.
This is what I would do anyway!
We all have little old skool tricks and i love how we can share them here!!!:):):)

must admit I’m trying to remember , I think it was on one of my old series engines with the exhausts studs snapping , or maybe on my old triumph vitesse 2 litre, for the life of me I can’t remember, however looking back can still feel that time when the rachet slowly went faster than I expected , snap, grrrrrrrrrrr, *£))#*#)#(#)@*(@@£””&()3 :mad::mad:

also replaced hubs when 2 x bolts stripped and didn’t want to risk it seeing it was on the wheels , did see a neighbour once use helicoil for his wheels, alas didn’t want to risk it as to be honest not got a lot of experience with them and thought the best route back then was to simply replace the hub

that’s a very good point in trying to get it from the back, don’t know what kind of room you’ve got on these hubs , but to be honest think if it’s several stripped threads would just buy a new hub , plus wouldn’t buy a second hand one as then you’ve got the worry if the bearing is any good

indeed ur so right there with the little tricks we’ve learnt over the years , hopefully the OP can resolve the issue
 
I drove out stripped threads with a little resistance by hand today. I tried another good bolt by hand, first it went in smoothly, it seems tight. Then after the wheel was put on, then tightened by ratchet, it was stripped again. Does it means the hub internal strips have been damaged, or the bolt aged?
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I drove out stripped threads with a little assistance by hand today. I tried another good bolt by hand, first it went in smoothly, it seems tight. Then after the wheel was put on, then tightened by ratchet, it was stripped again. Does it means the hub internal strips have been damaged, or the bolt aged?
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You only have to look at the bolt to see where the threads have thickened, this is due to forcing it into threads that are jammed up with "stuff".
I take it you didn't run a tap down the thread first?
If you did and this is the result, as hubs are so important safety wise, I would get a new hub and new bolts, unless all the other bolts are perfect.
Sadly cross -threading a bolt then carrying on with it is often the death of a fixing, unless it isn't safety critical or, important here, balance critical, when you can drill a clearance hole, then tap for the next size or two up and use a thicker bolt with the correct thread.
 
Hi Stanleysteamer, thank you for your info. when I drove the tap, I was careful to avoid damaging the internal threads. I did tap down the thread. Maybe the internal thread has been worn a bit, so that the bolt has less contact area and can not stand specified force. Other bolts are tightened fine. A loose bolt would fail MOT.
 
Plus 1 , regarding a new hub and bolts , at least then u know it’s 100% safe , as it will always be in the back of ur mind

hopefully it’s not to bad of a job to change
 
Hi Stanleysteamer, thank you for your info. when I drove the tap, I was careful to avoid damaging the internal threads. I did tap down the thread. Maybe the internal thread has been worn a bit, so that the bolt has less contact area and can not stand specified force. Other bolts are tightened fine. A loose bolt would fail MOT.
Thanks for the clarification. You are obviously right about a loose bolts and neither of us would want to drive with a wheeel that could come off!
I guess you are stuck now with a new hub.
Better safe than sorry.;)
 
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