Classic LSE air suspension operation

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marsie

Member
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Hi all, just trying to get my head around how the EAS is supposed to operate on a 92 LSE. My car has been stood for several years and when I start it I get no compressor
The up and down buttons in the car both flash for about 20 seconds after startup then both light continuously until ignition turned off.

The drivers seat trim has been removed prior to me getting the car and I have found a 2 position rocker switch under the seat which when operated causes something to click in the EAS box (only when driver door shut). Not sure if a previous owner has done this or if its factory

Any ideas, really would like to get the air working rather than take the option of replacing it with coils

Thanks In advance
Paul
 
marsie said:
Hi all, just trying to get my head around how the EAS is supposed to operate on a 92 LSE. My car has been stood for several years and when I start it I get no compressor
The up and down buttons in the car both flash for about 20 seconds after startup then both light continuously until ignition turned off.

The drivers seat trim has been removed prior to me getting the car and I have found a 2 position rocker switch under the seat which when operated causes something to click in the EAS box (only when driver door shut). Not sure if a previous owner has done this or if its factory

Any ideas, really would like to get the air working rather than take the option of replacing it with coils

Thanks In advance
Paul
Click to expand...
The switch sounds like it disables the EAS. You need the RSW EAS diagnostics to find out what i going on.
 
Thanks Datatek
Have found the switch in the handbook and it is to disable the eas. If the system has a fault (up and down light flashing) does the system lock out until the fault is cleared by diagnostics or will it operate if the fault is cured? If I bridge the yellow relay the pump runs fine

On the subject of diagnostics, can anyone tell me where I can get a lead to run the rsw diagnostics?
Thanks
 
Last edited:
marsie said:
Thanks Datatek
Have found the switch in the handbook and it is to disable the eas. If the system has a fault (up and down light flashing) does the system lock out until the fault is cleared by diagnostics or will it operate if the fault is cured? If I bridge the yellow relay the pump runs fine

On the subject of diagnostics, can anyone tell me where I can get a lead to run the rsw diagnostics?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Yes, the system is locked when there is a hard fault present. I used to do the cables but since Brexit it's a costly business.
The Classic requires a special connector that is n o longer available as far as I can find out, when I supplied I supplied a 9 pin D connector to replace the special connector.
 
Thanks guys, silly question but is there a minimum voltage to trigger the EAS to work? the reason I ask is that I checked the output from the alternator today and was only getting a max of 12.5v so that will need swapping before anything else. Just wondered if that could be a reason why my EAS was not working?
 
marsie said:
Thanks guys, silly question but is there a minimum voltage to trigger the EAS to work? the reason I ask is that I checked the output from the alternator today and was only getting a max of 12.5v so that will need swapping before anything else. Just wondered if that could be a reason why my EAS was not working?
Click to expand...
Low voltage can cause problems but 12.5, although on the low side should be OK. What is the battery voltage when it has stood overnight?
 
Not sure, will check tomorrow . Its a new battery so should be good but on the off chance stuck a voltmeter across the battery and only got 12.5v max when running
 
marsie said:
Not sure, will check tomorrow . Its a new battery so should be good but on the off chance stuck a voltmeter across the battery and only got 12.5v max when running
Click to expand...
"New battery" means nothing. With a modern battery you need to see up to 14.7 volts in order to charge it fully. A new battery can be just as flat as an old one. You should be able to replace the regulator in the alternator to increase the voltage set point, Mobiltron do them for the P38 so worth a try.
 
I am going to see about getting all the parts together to make a lead of my own that way I can carry my own diagnostics in the car until I am happy its working as it should

Looking at the RSW website it looks like I will need-

5 way rists connector
Serial port connector
15K ohm resistor
Transistor
4 core cable

oh, and a cheap 2nd hand laptop to download the RSW software onto (that will be the laptops only function)

Better get shopping :oops:
 
marsie said:
I am going to see about getting all the parts together to make a lead of my own that way I can carry my own diagnostics in the car until I am happy its working as it should

Looking at the RSW website it looks like I will need-

5 way rists connector
Serial port connector
15K ohm resistor
Transistor
4 core cable

oh, and a cheap 2nd hand laptop to download the RSW software onto (that will be the laptops only function)

Better get shopping :oops:
Click to expand...
Make sure you get the correct transistor. There is room to put the transistor in the connector housing.
 
Thanks datatek, not sure I trust myself with electronics so may get my mate to assemble it. Can strip a landrover in my sleep but electronics are not my strong point 🤣
 
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