Level in coolant bottle - overheating

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
what thermostat system have you got, and fanny certainly has a point about the head gasket.

New type, in line, now with the internals removed so basically an open Y tube.

Yes the liners were OK - but they might not be now :eek:

I am tempted to put in some K Seal - nothing to lose if the head is coming off anyway.

It seems as if water is being pumped out of the top hose & back via the bleed, into the bottle rather than through the block & rad. This then seems to be starving the pump. When I release the cap coolant flows down to the pump & I am guessing that it primes it - I wish that I had installed an electric pump !

Just a thought but if the coolant isn't circulating then K Seal might not work anyway.
 
Last edited:
so if you have opened the prt canistor and removed the internals you have in effect bypassed the engine, no wonder it is getting hot, there is no circulation of coolant!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
New type, in line, now with the internals removed so basically an open Y tube.

:doh:

EDIT: now check to see if the old stat has been removed it is located on the back of engine on the left just under inlet manifold.

then buy a replacement inhose stat (preferably the grey one 82 degrees with weak spring) PEL500110
 
Last edited:
so if you have opened the prt canistor and removed the internals you have in effect bypassed the engine, no wonder it is getting hot, there is no circulation of coolant!!!!!!!!!!!!

No I bypassed the radiator which is just as bad !. Thanks to a poster I realised that, because the stat has no internals, I needed to carefully clamp the bypass hose. Now the engine runs fine with no overheat but still with a surprisingly quick warm up.

Yes I will get a new stat & thanks for letting me know which one - that was going to be my next question.
 
Back
Top