stuu
Well-Known Member
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- 1,988
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- Aberdeenshire
2.5 dse auto top half of pump leaking can it be resealed in situe? Oil leek from around oil filter(plastic top) area is it possible theres a gasket to where it meets the block.? Ta in advance
leaks diesel and oil
- Thread starter stuu
- Start date
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Littelwill
Well-Known Member
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- 3,065
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- Lincolnshire
Top half of fuel pump can be done yourself yes, just make sure you get the right seal kit and clean EVERYTHING first.
Inside the oil filter housing (the black plastic lid) there is a large circular O ring that goes all the way around the rim. replace that with the one that should come with any good filter kit and should stop it. As a temp fix just check it hasnt worked itself lose..
Hope that helps you
W
Inside the oil filter housing (the black plastic lid) there is a large circular O ring that goes all the way around the rim. replace that with the one that should come with any good filter kit and should stop it. As a temp fix just check it hasnt worked itself lose..
Hope that helps you
W
stuu
Well-Known Member
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- 1,988
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- Aberdeenshire
Cheers will everything would be spotless washed down with petrol beforehand and an airline to hand and its tight and new filter and seals done still got the oil appearing though
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 46,466
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- Near Poitiers SW France
The O rings that come with some of the cheap filters are too thin and do not seal, I had the same problem.
stuu
Well-Known Member
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- Aberdeenshire
Was aftermarket 1st time this time dealers item. Leaves what looks like a splash mark on the outside of the inlet manifold.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 20,070
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I think this is the kit I used: BMW Land Rover TDI TDS INJECTION PUMP SEAL KIT BOSH | eBay
Mark up all 4 sides of each section of the pump before you take it off. There is a security bolt on 1 corner but just hammer a socket onto it. Think it might be 7mm but cannot remember.
There is a seal for each section. There are some oval ones on the sides too that start to leak. The back one is a bit fiddly and be careful because a spring tried to leap out!
I put a summary somewhere but cannot remember where and cannot see it in my posts. Typical.
Mark up all 4 sides of each section of the pump before you take it off. There is a security bolt on 1 corner but just hammer a socket onto it. Think it might be 7mm but cannot remember.
There is a seal for each section. There are some oval ones on the sides too that start to leak. The back one is a bit fiddly and be careful because a spring tried to leap out!
I put a summary somewhere but cannot remember where and cannot see it in my posts. Typical.
stuu
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,988
- Location
- Aberdeenshire
Spot on grrrrr 
the seal top plate seal like inline with injector pipe outlets. Il do what i can in situe and hope it does it if not wait till vans motd and take pump off and let somone else have the hassle haha
the seal top plate seal like inline with injector pipe outlets. Il do what i can in situe and hope it does it if not wait till vans motd and take pump off and let somone else have the hassle haha
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 20,070
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Found the thread. Half-way down this page. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/diesel-pump-sorted-264790-2.html
Even marking the top of my pump up on all 4 sides we had an absolute bugger of a time getting it to run straight afterwards (with hindsight because my pump is tired and continually changing the modulation).
In the end it was a case of leaving it ever so slightly undone and then microscopically tapping it back and forth until it idled at 750 rpm on the button. Even tightening it up affected the idle so it took a few goes to get it right. Even after that it took quite a few miles of driving to settle back down.
Sooner or later I'm going to have to do something about that pump - when my wallet can handle it!
Even marking the top of my pump up on all 4 sides we had an absolute bugger of a time getting it to run straight afterwards (with hindsight because my pump is tired and continually changing the modulation).
In the end it was a case of leaving it ever so slightly undone and then microscopically tapping it back and forth until it idled at 750 rpm on the button. Even tightening it up affected the idle so it took a few goes to get it right. Even after that it took quite a few miles of driving to settle back down.
Sooner or later I'm going to have to do something about that pump - when my wallet can handle it!
