L322 Door Lock

Hi All,
I have searched forums across the internet to see if I can find a solution to my door lock problem. I have an L322 from 2004 and the passenger (NSF) door lock has stopped working and remains in the "superlocked" position. I have a replacement lock in hand but how on earth am I going to get the door card off? Most posts assume you can open the door and I can neither operate it from the inside or outside handle. My question is - is there any way of getting to the lock so that I don't have to butcher the door card? Also, if I do get to the lock, how do I get it to let go of the catch?
Also, I've checked most fuses etc to do with the central locking but came across a "front door control unit" listed on Ebay. Anyone know where this lives so that I might check the contacts?
Thanks!!

Taking the door card off is no major worry. See fullfatrr.com (a L322 RR only site) for a full picture guide etc.

Hi,
thanks for the post.
I'm just checking that out now. I've seen the FFRR site before and it looks good. I'm looking for the link too however my issue is that I need to get the door card off with the door shut or find a way of freeing off the "superlock" so I can get it open again. It's frustrating as it was working intermittently and I didn't take the chance to deal with it at the time. I was always able to open the door from the inside via the interior handle so didn't think it would lock up like this!
Cheers!

Type in door lock problems in the common faults forum it shoulod come up with how to break the lock and open the door

Door Lock Failure: Getting the Door Open (4.0/4.6/p38A)
Try this site it woks on P38 dont know about L322

Hi,
thanks for the responses. I'll check them out. I also got a response from the Full Fat Range Rover site that gave this advice too which I'll try first:

"have you tried operating the lock unlock button, or the remote lock unlock buttons with your finger pushed down hard at the same time on the sill button?

Mine did the same, and I managed to get it open that way. It seems that the factory lube dries out and there isn't enough power to overcome the resistance - I think the rubber seal that goes into the actuator dries out and creates friction on the operating rod.

Pushing down on the sill button seems to dislodge it free enough if the pressure is still on whilst you opperate the button. I then squirted silicone lube down the sill button hole and operated it 30 or 40 times. It seems to have solved the problem, as operating the lock has worked the lube down to the mechanism.

I haven't though had the door card off, so can't vouch 100% for my diagnosis and fix! it did work though"

Thanks for the advice.

As an update, as you would expect the simple solution did not work in this case. Shame!

I have however spoken with several auto locksmiths, some independent and a main dealers. Unfortunately none of the independent locksmiths I spoke to had experience of doing this job on an L322 and the independent garage had done a P38 but not an L322. The main dealer said they had done one on an L322 but as the lock is different from that on the P38 the common fix (link above) won't work. They went in through the rib cage, sorry, door card.

I'm now tracking down a suitable second hand door card and not a new one, the price quoted for that was in the region of £ 750............

The moral: if your lock starts playing up intermittently then deal with it whilst you can get the door open!!

Just to follow up on my earlier post I thought I'd share my experience on how I managed to solve my problem. This solution can only be used when you have full access to work from both the inside and outside of the car so shouldn't pose any theft or security issues. I also take no responsibility for others following this information, causing dammage and still not solving the problem. From my perspective however I simply dont see how this omelette can be made without breaking eggs. Its about how careful you are when breaking them! It took all in about an hour and I nearly gave up best part of the way through.
After looking for door cards on Ebay, with some degree of success, I got tired of waiting to find one in good condition, in the right colour and at the right price and just decided to go for it. Having said that I managed to source a reasonably priced second hand door lock mechanism to substitute for the original so at least if I did get it open I could lock it up again straight away!
First off I removed what trim bolts I could from the door card handle and pocket and wound the window down in order to get access to the black trim running along the door card. When levered this unclipped from the edge with some force, but no dammage. I then removed the small plastic quadrant on the inside of the door behind the wing mirror. At this point I could pry the door card forward in order to gain access to and unbolt the door air bag. With this held out of the way to one side I could access the thick foam weather proof soundproofing, peeling it back to get inside the door. BTW it does help if you have a friend who can keep things prised back but not too aggressively. I then wound the window up in order to get my hand further down inside the door (and no my hands aren't small) as the glass no longer acted as a wall between the inside of the door and the lock. At this point I referred to my replacement lock and could see how the mechanism worked and pivoted at the top so aimed a long screwdriver at the mechanism on the jammed lock in the door and bashed the other end with a hammer, aiming to literally smash it. I had someone working the outside handle at the same time and eventually it freed off without too much destruction. The lock was of course knackered and it would appear had literally seized up due to wear and lack of grease. With the door open it is then much easier to get access to remove the old lock mechanism, fit the new one, replace the cables etc and clip back together.