just bought p38 diesel...some advice please esp. re autobox

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

2pintsplease

New Member
Posts
22
Gidday all. I've just acquired a 1997 p38 diesel automatic, my seventh and definitely most complicated Landy. There's a few things I'm unsure of.
1) Reticence to start off when effort required. Most notably in reverse, it will struggle to get moving on a steep hill or bump. It will rev just till the turbo starts to spool around 12-1500rpm then run out of ideas. Have had to engage low range in bad situations. Is this a sign of some expensive problems developing or just the nature of the beast?
2) It's hard to tell as I've only done 2000km so far, but it seems to have used a bit of oil and coolant. No sign of head gasket failure, no apparent radiator leaks ,no burning oil, no drips on the driveway (if it was my Series I would be certain that was a sign something was seriously wrong!). Is there an innocent explanation for this?
3)Without an owners manual, I have no idea what the buttons adjacent to the suspension adjuster do. One looks like a pair of tracks with a bar across, and I've noticed that the cruise control only works with it on, but is that all it does? The other is a wheel with little arrows, and haven't worked out what that means. I've also noticed that sometimes the suspension doesn't do what you tell it to straight away...is that just the compressor recharging?
4 ) I'm in New Zealand and the major auto stores don't stock the oil filter. Anyone else down this way been able to source one?
5) I've researched the odometer and found it differs from any other Landy or most cars for that matter, in that it is supplied by a pulse signal from the abs module. Does anybody know what the wire looks like that feeds the odo?

Thanks for reading, any advice much appreciated!
 
Check here for the owners manual:
Range Rover 1998 user manual
About the gearbox, change oil and filter and see if improves. Its not supposed to be like that.
The coolant loss, search the forums for matrix o'rings and see if yours are leaking.
 
Gidday all. I've just acquired a 1997 p38 diesel automatic, my seventh and definitely most complicated Landy. There's a few things I'm unsure of.
1) Reticence to start off when effort required. Most notably in reverse, it will struggle to get moving on a steep hill or bump. It will rev just till the turbo starts to spool around 12-1500rpm then run out of ideas. Have had to engage low range in bad situations. Is this a sign of some expensive problems developing or just the nature of the beast?
2) It's hard to tell as I've only done 2000km so far, but it seems to have used a bit of oil and coolant. No sign of head gasket failure, no apparent radiator leaks ,no burning oil, no drips on the driveway (if it was my Series I would be certain that was a sign something was seriously wrong!). Is there an innocent explanation for this?
3)Without an owners manual, I have no idea what the buttons adjacent to the suspension adjuster do. One looks like a pair of tracks with a bar across, and I've noticed that the cruise control only works with it on, but is that all it does? The other is a wheel with little arrows, and haven't worked out what that means. I've also noticed that sometimes the suspension doesn't do what you tell it to straight away...is that just the compressor recharging?
4 ) I'm in New Zealand and the major auto stores don't stock the oil filter. Anyone else down this way been able to source one?
5) I've researched the odometer and found it differs from any other Landy or most cars for that matter, in that it is supplied by a pulse signal from the abs module. Does anybody know what the wire looks like that feeds the odo?

Thanks for reading, any advice much appreciated!
Do you mean it will not rev beyond 1200/1500 rpm in gear?
If so check the pipe from the inlet manifold to the MAP sensor located on the fuel filter housing and also check the in tank pump is working.
The odometer is driven from the ABS signal via the BECM I think.
 
Thanks for the links, that should help a lot.

Datatek - it drives perfectly once underway, but won't start moving if it has to overcome a large bump or hill. It will rev to 1500 and sit there straining. Almost as if the torque converter isn't slipping as much as it should.
 
Thanks for the links, that should help a lot.

Datatek - it drives perfectly once underway, but won't start moving if it has to overcome a large bump or hill. It will rev to 1500 and sit there straining. Almost as if the torque converter isn't slipping as much as it should.
Mine is parked on a slope, it needs a heavy boot to get it moving.
If you cannot get the revs over 1500 it sounds like the torque convertor is locking but the car still doesn't move so I'd be looking at sticking brake calipers or handbrake.
 
Check the gear box fluid level, as per the manual with the engine running, if the fluid is low eventually reverse will not engage. I thought the worse, changed the fluid, filter and checked the level with the car running and all was well again ( now I need to replace the gear box cooler rad and pipes which are weeping quietly to them selves.)
Go on to YOUTUBE and check out the American p38 owner manual videos, it will explain all the buttons and how they work.
 
Update: thanks for everyone's replies. 4000km covered now and shifting smoothly (just done 800km towing three tonnes). I think the transmission was suffering from lack of use. It has improved somewhat and Datatek's comment that it needs a heavy boot is reassuring. Still won't mount a large kerb in reverse high from standstill, but will with just a little momentum, and can back up most hills in high now. I guess it's just a heavy vehicle with less pre-spool torque than I'm used to.
 
The reverse uses two different clutcts in the gearbox and the second one does not engage untill 3mph is reached.
 
The reverse uses two different clutcts in the gearbox and the second one does not engage untill 3mph is reached.

Where did you get that from? Reverse uses three clutches, all are engaged for reverse gear. However if the car is moving forwards when reverse is selected it will not engage until the speed drops to 5 MPH or less.
 
Where did you get that from? Reverse uses three clutches, all are engaged for reverse gear. However if the car is moving forwards when reverse is selected it will not engage until the speed drops to 5 MPH or less.

If wheel sensors are knackered so the speedo doesn't work can you still engage reverse?
 
Touché :p
So if the sensors break do you just lose the relevant features (ABS speedo etc) but the car's unaware of the fault? Like assumes 0mph rather than ???mph
Unlikely that all the sensors would break, the ECU averages the reading from 2 or 4 depending on year for speed. One duff sensor will flag an ABS fault.
 
The problem with setting off on hills/bumps is one I suffered with mine. It came down to two things.

1, Gearbox oil was slightly low. A leak in the oil cooler was to blame.
2, The diff oil was tar. Took a lot of work to clean the crap out and replace with lovely fresh oil.

A full service of all oils, fluids and filters solved the problem for some time, however the leak on my GB oilcooler wasn't completely fixed (found another leak) so it is still loosing a touch of oil. Once a litre drops out the gearbox plays up and pulling away is a chore.
 
The problem with setting off on hills/bumps is one I suffered with mine. It came down to two things.

1, Gearbox oil was slightly low. A leak in the oil cooler was to blame.
2, The diff oil was tar. Took a lot of work to clean the crap out and replace with lovely fresh oil.

A full service of all oils, fluids and filters solved the problem for some time, however the leak on my GB oilcooler wasn't completely fixed (found another leak) so it is still loosing a touch of oil. Once a litre drops out the gearbox plays up and pulling away is a chore.

Even if the diff was full or grease it would have little effect on the cars ability to pull away. Using that as an excuse for lack of power is silly.
 
Even if the diff was full or grease it would have little effect on the cars ability to pull away. Using that as an excuse for lack of power is silly.

Well I put it down to the gearbox being low on oil due to a leak, the thick tar wasn't helping things.
 
Back
Top