ideas please!

Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...

no brakes (rears removed, no fluid)
clutch seized
engine refuses to start

I have a very tight garage, so to do any work I need to get it out
onto the drive. The drive is alongside the garage, not in front of
it.

So, the plan was...

assemble four blokes
push truck backwards onto road
push truck forwards to drive
attach tow rope and use 101 to drag it over the (fairly high) kerb
onto drive
use 101 and first gear to stop it as it rolls down the drive

The truck refuses to move. It's definitely in neutral, the handbrake
is off (it has been stored thus) and yet with three large lads up
front shoving (with the garage wall to push against) it simply will
not shift an inch.

I'm a bit stuffed at this point. Whilst the rear brakes are not
fitted, they are all there except the cylinders. Could the shoes have
jammed (they were never adjusted up)?

What else might have jammed up?

I'm thinking at this point that I need to get the front on axle stands
(I can just about do this with the space available, but I'll have to
remove the fridge and tumble dryer). Then I can see if the front
wheels are free.

Doing this at the back will be more tricky, but may be doable.

Now, that will be very useful info, but I have bugger all room to do
any work at the back end. There certainly isn't room to extract the
halfshafts or even get the wheels off. Where might I be able to hire
some little trolley things - if I can get the arse just out of the
garage then I might be able to do something.

Is there any other stunning plan that could make this easy? I did
think about simply pulling like chuff with the 101, but as it's not
taxed or motted I thought this might be a bit iffy (I'd have to do it
from a public road) if a plod happened upon the scene and got
interested. I'm also as likely to break something as free it off.


--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

Tim Hobbs wrote:
> Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
> been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...
>
> no brakes (rears removed, no fluid)
> clutch seized
> engine refuses to start
>
> I have a very tight garage, so to do any work I need to get it out
> onto the drive. The drive is alongside the garage, not in front of
> it.
>
> So, the plan was...
>
> assemble four blokes
> push truck backwards onto road
> push truck forwards to drive
> attach tow rope and use 101 to drag it over the (fairly high) kerb
> onto drive
> use 101 and first gear to stop it as it rolls down the drive
>
> The truck refuses to move. It's definitely in neutral, the handbrake
> is off (it has been stored thus) and yet with three large lads up
> front shoving (with the garage wall to push against) it simply will
> not shift an inch.
>
> I'm a bit stuffed at this point. Whilst the rear brakes are not
> fitted, they are all there except the cylinders. Could the shoes have
> jammed (they were never adjusted up)?
>
> What else might have jammed up?
>
> I'm thinking at this point that I need to get the front on axle stands
> (I can just about do this with the space available, but I'll have to
> remove the fridge and tumble dryer). Then I can see if the front
> wheels are free.
>
> Doing this at the back will be more tricky, but may be doable.
>
> Now, that will be very useful info, but I have bugger all room to do
> any work at the back end. There certainly isn't room to extract the
> halfshafts or even get the wheels off. Where might I be able to hire
> some little trolley things - if I can get the arse just out of the
> garage then I might be able to do something.
>
> Is there any other stunning plan that could make this easy? I did
> think about simply pulling like chuff with the 101, but as it's not
> taxed or motted I thought this might be a bit iffy (I'd have to do it
> from a public road) if a plod happened upon the scene and got
> interested. I'm also as likely to break something as free it off.

Take off both both propshafts, you will know where the fault lies then. It will either move meaning
something before the shafts or not meaning a seized diff or jammed on brakes etc.

--
Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

'"They called him Jimmy the gent"

Nige wrote:

> Tim Hobbs wrote:
>> Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
>> been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...
>>
>> no brakes (rears removed, no fluid)
>> clutch seized
>> engine refuses to start
>>
>> I have a very tight garage, so to do any work I need to get it out
>> onto the drive. The drive is alongside the garage, not in front of
>> it.
>>
>> So, the plan was...
>>
>> assemble four blokes
>> push truck backwards onto road
>> push truck forwards to drive
>> attach tow rope and use 101 to drag it over the (fairly high) kerb
>> onto drive
>> use 101 and first gear to stop it as it rolls down the drive
>>
>> The truck refuses to move. It's definitely in neutral, the handbrake
>> is off (it has been stored thus) and yet with three large lads up
>> front shoving (with the garage wall to push against) it simply will
>> not shift an inch.
>>
>> I'm a bit stuffed at this point. Whilst the rear brakes are not
>> fitted, they are all there except the cylinders. Could the shoes have
>> jammed (they were never adjusted up)?
>>
>> What else might have jammed up?
>>
>> I'm thinking at this point that I need to get the front on axle stands
>> (I can just about do this with the space available, but I'll have to
>> remove the fridge and tumble dryer). Then I can see if the front
>> wheels are free.
>>
>> Doing this at the back will be more tricky, but may be doable.
>>
>> Now, that will be very useful info, but I have bugger all room to do
>> any work at the back end. There certainly isn't room to extract the
>> halfshafts or even get the wheels off. Where might I be able to hire
>> some little trolley things - if I can get the arse just out of the
>> garage then I might be able to do something.
>>
>> Is there any other stunning plan that could make this easy? I did
>> think about simply pulling like chuff with the 101, but as it's not
>> taxed or motted I thought this might be a bit iffy (I'd have to do it
>> from a public road) if a plod happened upon the scene and got
>> interested. I'm also as likely to break something as free it off.
>
> Take off both both propshafts, you will know where the fault lies then. It
> will either move meaning something before the shafts or not meaning a
> seized diff or jammed on brakes etc.
>

Or for somewhat less effort, jack each corner in succession and try and
rotate the wheel and see if any of them won't move.

For something a little safer than hauling away with the 101, do any of your
friends have a decently hefty vehicle mount winch you could use for the
same? At the very least you only get a few inches of overrun when it cuts
loose.

P.
--
1992 200 TDI Disco - heavily modified
1982 V8 Range Rover - heavily corroded
2000 Rover 75 - heavily driven
1993 Lexus LS400 - just plain heavy on fuel

Paul S. Brown wrote:

> Or for somewhat less effort, jack each corner in succession and try
> and rotate the wheel and see if any of them won't move.
>
> For something a little safer than hauling away with the 101, do any
> of your friends have a decently hefty vehicle mount winch you could
> use for the same? At the very least you only get a few inches of
> overrun when it cuts loose.
>
> P.

Aye, just re-read the post!!!

;~)

Got the rear axle sorted finally on the S3 you sold me mate. Runs like a dream now. Gonna start cleaning
the chassis etc soon.

It's a cracking little motor for the money, it starts first time every time & never even farts once its
warmed up!

Nige



--
Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

'"They called him Jimmy the gent"

"Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news[email protected]...
> Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
> been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...

It's stuck...

My first move would be a mallet to the back of the backplates on the front
axle and also to the wheel on each side (front). From the way your post read
I've assumed the rears have the cylinders removed but the gubbins in... if
not and theres a likelyhood of stray fluid in the drum then belt the rears
too as Brake fluid is quite corrosive... at least it says on the tin it is
and last time I worked without paying proper attention I came out in
multiple blisters and got the shakes similar to alzimers. Took a trip to A &
E and alot of head scratching to work out what caused it.... anyway I
digress....

If that didn't work then I'd risk , er,...... my friend would risk the 101
stunt. I'd advise against anything so naughty gaffer.

I've also often found actually pushing the circumference of the tyre can
give more pushing power than purely pushing the car... Indeed I scoot the
101 around now and then with a single foot out of the cab onto the tyre
hamster stylie just to get some momentum to allow me to move him forward
sufficent to open the back doors.

Lee D
--

www.lrproject.com

Workshop photos from Landrover repairs
& other such tinkerings.
Home of Percy the Jag powered Landrover

"Paul S. Brown" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> For something a little safer than hauling away with the 101, do any of
> your friends have a decently hefty vehicle mount winch you could use
> for the same?

Ratchet strap.

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 20:24:35 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>"Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news[email protected]...
>> Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
>> been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...
>
>It's stuck...
>
>My first move would be a mallet to the back of the backplates on the front
>axle and also to the wheel on each side (front). From the way your post read
>I've assumed the rears have the cylinders removed but the gubbins in... if
>not and theres a likelyhood of stray fluid in the drum then belt the rears
>too as Brake fluid is quite corrosive...

Starting off by hitting it a bit is always good (hit it a bit
afterwards for good measure if it makes you feel better!)

>If that didn't work then I'd risk , er,...... my friend would risk the 101
>stunt. I'd advise against anything so naughty gaffer.

Does your garage open onto the road or do you have a bit of drive in
front of it?. All you need is a 101 depth of drive plus a couple of
foot!
You should be able to give it a quick yank with the 101. Just using a
really short tow strap (or just loop one back and forth multiple
times.
If it is just something that has corroded into place then it will only
need the initial tug to free it off.

Weve pretty much lashed series landies bumper to bumper to drag them
round confined drives.

You could also get hold of a pair of trolley jacks, jack a whole axle
up and then it will be rolling on the trolley jack wheels


If it comes down to being a single diff that has locked up then it
should still drag with the 101. You can drive a landrover with a
locked up rear diff in 4wd and it drags its own wheels!
You also do not need to take the rear halfshafts out all the way to
remove drive. just pulling them out a couple of inches will suffice
(just to un-mesh the teeth at the diff end)

>
>I've also often found actually pushing the circumference of the tyre can
>give more pushing power than purely pushing the car... Indeed I scoot the
>101 around now and then with a single foot out of the cab onto the tyre
>hamster stylie just to get some momentum to allow me to move him forward
>sufficent to open the back doors.

Come and do that to mine which is parked up on a muddy slope!

>>
> I'm thinking at this point that I need to get the front on axle stands
> (I can just about do this with the space available, but I'll have to
> remove the fridge and tumble dryer).

Oh cool. Wow. My Disco hasn't even got air con.....

TonyB

In message <[email protected]>, Tim Hobbs
<[email protected]> writes
>Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
>been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...
>
>no brakes (rears removed, no fluid)
>clutch seized
>engine refuses to start
>
>I have a very tight garage, so to do any work I need to get it out
>onto the drive. The drive is alongside the garage, not in front of
>it.
>
>So, the plan was...
>
>assemble four blokes
>push truck backwards onto road
>push truck forwards to drive
>attach tow rope and use 101 to drag it over the (fairly high) kerb
>onto drive
>use 101 and first gear to stop it as it rolls down the drive
>
>The truck refuses to move. It's definitely in neutral, the handbrake
>is off (it has been stored thus) and yet with three large lads up
>front shoving (with the garage wall to push against) it simply will
>not shift an inch.
>
>I'm a bit stuffed at this point. Whilst the rear brakes are not
>fitted, they are all there except the cylinders. Could the shoes have
>jammed (they were never adjusted up)?
>
>What else might have jammed up?
>
>I'm thinking at this point that I need to get the front on axle stands
>(I can just about do this with the space available, but I'll have to
>remove the fridge and tumble dryer). Then I can see if the front
>wheels are free.
>
>Doing this at the back will be more tricky, but may be doable.
>
>Now, that will be very useful info, but I have bugger all room to do
>any work at the back end. There certainly isn't room to extract the
>halfshafts or even get the wheels off. Where might I be able to hire
>some little trolley things - if I can get the arse just out of the
>garage then I might be able to do something.
>
>Is there any other stunning plan that could make this easy? I did
>think about simply pulling like chuff with the 101, but as it's not
>taxed or motted I thought this might be a bit iffy (I'd have to do it
>from a public road) if a plod happened upon the scene and got
>interested. I'm also as likely to break something as free it off.
>
>
So, one or more wheels refuse to rotate.
First identify whether problem is on front or rear diff. Ensure transfer
box is in 2 wheel drive. Jack up each front wheel in turn. It should be
possible to rotate them individually. One wheel fails - wheel problem.
Both wheels fail diff/transfer box, remove prop shaft to isolate.

If front OK then repeat at rear. If both wheels fail then problem is
diff/handbrake/transfer box.

Drop propshaft to isolate diff. If diff OK proceed to inspect handbrake.
If handbrake OK transfer box is next suspect.

Think that's right.

Once you know where the problem lies you are better able to assess the
risk of giving it a big heave with the 101. Using a kinetic recovery
rope (gently) would reduce the risk of damage.


--
hugh
Reply to address is valid at the time of posting

"Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news[email protected]...
> Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
> been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...
>
> no brakes (rears removed, no fluid)
> clutch seized
> engine refuses to start
>
> I have a very tight garage, so to do any work I need to get it out
> onto the drive. The drive is alongside the garage, not in front of
> it.
>
> So, the plan was...
>
> assemble four blokes
> push truck backwards onto road
> push truck forwards to drive
> attach tow rope and use 101 to drag it over the (fairly high) kerb
> onto drive
> use 101 and first gear to stop it as it rolls down the drive
>
> The truck refuses to move. It's definitely in neutral, the handbrake
> is off (it has been stored thus) and yet with three large lads up
> front shoving (with the garage wall to push against) it simply will
> not shift an inch.
>
> I'm a bit stuffed at this point. Whilst the rear brakes are not
> fitted, they are all there except the cylinders. Could the shoes have
> jammed (they were never adjusted up)?
>
> What else might have jammed up?
>
> I'm thinking at this point that I need to get the front on axle stands
> (I can just about do this with the space available, but I'll have to
> remove the fridge and tumble dryer). Then I can see if the front
> wheels are free.
>
> Doing this at the back will be more tricky, but may be doable.
>
> Now, that will be very useful info, but I have bugger all room to do
> any work at the back end. There certainly isn't room to extract the
> halfshafts or even get the wheels off. Where might I be able to hire
> some little trolley things - if I can get the arse just out of the
> garage then I might be able to do something.

Just wondering why you need room to pull the halfshafts, surely just
removing the bolts is enough.

Are you sure someone hasn't pulled on the handbrake, because the pivot on
the linkage mounted on the chassis usually sieze up if left for a while,
maybe you can lever it down against the chassis from underneath if you've
not much room.

Martin.
>
> Is there any other stunning plan that could make this easy? I did
> think about simply pulling like chuff with the 101, but as it's not
> taxed or motted I thought this might be a bit iffy (I'd have to do it
> from a public road) if a plod happened upon the scene and got
> interested. I'm also as likely to break something as free it off.
>
>
> --
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
> '58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
> '77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
> '03 Volvo V70
>
> My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
> Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
> Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

In message <[email protected]>
Tim Hobbs <[email protected]> wrote:

> Finally decided to get the Series 2 out of the garage today. It's
> been in there for about 2 years. Just to recap...
>
> no brakes (rears removed, no fluid)
> clutch seized
> engine refuses to start
>
> I have a very tight garage, so to do any work I need to get it out
> onto the drive. The drive is alongside the garage, not in front of
> it.
>
> So, the plan was...
>
> assemble four blokes
> push truck backwards onto road
> push truck forwards to drive
> attach tow rope and use 101 to drag it over the (fairly high) kerb
> onto drive
> use 101 and first gear to stop it as it rolls down the drive
>
> The truck refuses to move. It's definitely in neutral, the handbrake
> is off (it has been stored thus) and yet with three large lads up
> front shoving (with the garage wall to push against) it simply will
> not shift an inch.
>
> I'm a bit stuffed at this point. Whilst the rear brakes are not
> fitted, they are all there except the cylinders. Could the shoes have
> jammed (they were never adjusted up)?
>
> What else might have jammed up?
>
> I'm thinking at this point that I need to get the front on axle stands
> (I can just about do this with the space available, but I'll have to
> remove the fridge and tumble dryer). Then I can see if the front
> wheels are free.
>
> Doing this at the back will be more tricky, but may be doable.
>
> Now, that will be very useful info, but I have bugger all room to do
> any work at the back end. There certainly isn't room to extract the
> halfshafts or even get the wheels off. Where might I be able to hire
> some little trolley things - if I can get the arse just out of the
> garage then I might be able to do something.
>
> Is there any other stunning plan that could make this easy? I did
> think about simply pulling like chuff with the 101, but as it's not
> taxed or motted I thought this might be a bit iffy (I'd have to do it
> from a public road) if a plod happened upon the scene and got
> interested. I'm also as likely to break something as free it off.
>
>
Sounds like the clutch has seized........ Getting it to free
up has any number of solutions - mostly involving snatching
and/or large hammers......anhem

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

>>
>Sounds like the clutch has seized........ Getting it to free
>up has any number of solutions - mostly involving snatching
>and/or large hammers......anhem
>
>Richard

The clutch has definitely seized, but it's in neutral. It ran in the
garage about a year ago, and I did move it back and forth a bit
(albeit without the clutch). I very definitely left it in neutral.

The point about just dropping the halfshafts back a bit rather than
complete removal is obvious now Tom and Olly have mentioned it!

If I ever escape from Troon and get back home I'll make a start, wheel
by wheel.

Thanks guys
--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

Managed to get back to it today. Although the main gearbox was in
neutral the transfer box was in 4wd. With that back in neutral I can
move back and forth about a 8 inches or so then it tightens up.
That's 8 inches more than it will shift with the transfer box in gear.

With the back jacked up, rear wheels both rotate and the opposite
wheel spins tother way as expected.

So, it's got to be in the transmission somewhere. Unfortunately we
are having building work done at present and there's half a ton of
sand and a pile of railway sleepers behind the 101, so tugging with a
V8 is not on just now.

Trying to get it started now, starter motor is doing nowt at the
moment. Starting handle on order too...
--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

Prps off then you should be able to roll it out?


"Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Managed to get back to it today. Although the main gearbox was in
> neutral the transfer box was in 4wd. With that back in neutral I can
> move back and forth about a 8 inches or so then it tightens up.
> That's 8 inches more than it will shift with the transfer box in gear.
>
> With the back jacked up, rear wheels both rotate and the opposite
> wheel spins tother way as expected.
>
> So, it's got to be in the transmission somewhere. Unfortunately we
> are having building work done at present and there's half a ton of
> sand and a pile of railway sleepers behind the 101, so tugging with a
> V8 is not on just now.
>
> Trying to get it started now, starter motor is doing nowt at the
> moment. Starting handle on order too...
> --
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
> '58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
> '77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
> '03 Volvo V70
>
> My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
> Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
> Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com