How long to change a folding rear step?

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lightning

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High Peak
Two bolts, let's say ten minutes?

Try two hours

First one of the rivnuts in the crossmember, fortunately the outer one, turned out to be a nut and bolt, so l thought better get a spanner on the back of it.
But my 110 has some sort of aftermarket plastic mud shield over the crossmember, so l had to remove that first.
Oh and the mud flap for better access.

To get the plastic mud shield off l needed to remove the two bolts at
the end of the crossmember as it was sandwiched between the crossmember and rear seat belt support tube.

Of course l didn't have a Torx bit big enough for the bolts and had to borrow one from a neighbour

Then the bolt holding the step on, was about two inches long and rusted, and took all my strength to begin to undo.
The nut kept slipping off the spanner as the bolt came loose, so l
ended up with a socket on it. But the bolt was so long that the driver wouldn't go on the socket.

So it was out with the junior hacksaw. Much sawing later, the bolt was
off.
l fitted the new step (a genuine LR one) then found that there are two tabs that need bending over, so had to take it off again to do that. But l bent them over too much so had to take it off a second time to alter the tabs.

Finally the rear step was on, by this time it was dark and raining, then l had to refit the aftermarket mud shield, mud flap, and various bolts.

The torx bit went missing which caused a further 15 minute delay in tightening the two bolts on the crossmember, eventually l found it between two paving slabs half way down the drive where it had obviously rolled as
soon as l put it down.
 
Landies are addictive, more so than many other classic type car. I have friends who have multiple Land Rovers, all in various states of disrepair through to concours condition...multiple early SI's through to last Defenders. They can't get enough of them...much to their wives irritation:D

Personally, I struggle with having more than a few boys toys as then I really struggle having enough time to maintain and enjoy.
 
consider yourself lucky, I would have expected by the time you have removed the step and the mudflap you would have uncovered enough rust to warrant welding on a new crossmember, and by the time you have removed the old one you found more rust you may as well replace the chassis, and while it is all apart it would be silly not to repaint everything, and it is so much easier to rebuild the engine while it is on the bench than in the vehicle. Before you know it a 10min job has turned into an 18month rebuild.
 

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Funny the longer u own a Landy the more tools u seem to acquire, along with a bigger skill set

every day is a school day in Land Rover land.
Could be worse I once owned a Range Rover p38 or 3

at least you have half a chance of fixing it yourself with a defender...
 
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Any ideas why my 110 - 2A snatch ex MOD heater wont throw out any heat. Pulled heater knob right down. Blower is good but no heat.
 
I hope not getting a bit cold and frosty now!
I take it you mean water in the radiator which there is as otherwise it would overheat and the gauge would show.
 
With my series 3, it's not so much that the heater doesn't supply warm air, it's more a case of a poor fan that doesn't seem to blow enough of it into the cab. You can just about feel it if you hold your hand over the screen vent for a few seconds but when travelling along you can't feel any warmth at all. It's the one thing that annoys me the most.

Col

Col
 
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