P38A Hifi replacement -amps in doors dreadful buzz from one

Hey there,

I’ve been on a bit of a journey trying to repair damage a po has done to a 1998 autobiography.

long story short (details in other thread) I’ve been trying to return the in-car audio to utilise the amps in the doors and the sub in the boot.
I was doing well, 3/4 doors work well, sub sounds awesome but I’ve a problem with the drivers door.

I’m getting a horrible buzz from the tweeter. Nothing from the woofer at all and the high freq from the mid range speaker.

it may be I’ve disturbed the wiring behind the stereo which feeds the pre-out to the door amp, and I’ll check that in the daylight. I was worried I might have reconnected the door wiring incorrectly but it looks good. I swapped the amp for a working spare and had the same issue.

anyone come across this sort of thing before ? Or have any good ideas of what to try next ?
I’m particularky worried about the lack of anything from the bass speaker as well as the high-pitched buzz

thanks in advance,

bob

I had issues once upon a time. I'd say bass speaker cd need replacing, or have a connection issue. I had a buzzing from the tweeter, and if I disconnected that then i could hear a bit of fuzz on the mid range. I did two main things - cleaned up the 16 way white connector in the footwell (nr the inertia switch) and I also replaced the amp with a 2nd hand one off ebay. All the messing around with the wiring did b****er all - replacing the door amp fixed it (even though the old one looks pristeen, has no water damage etc).

Ok, so I’ve found something a little odd.

As I said I have 3/4 doors and the sub working great.

the problem is with the RHF Drivers door.
In the wiring schedule and, seemingly sensibly in my multi connector, the pre-amp audio feed to this door amp should be on red / red black wiring. However. The audio feed into the connector for the amp is yellow and yellow black -same as the LHF door.

Anyone have any ideas ?

It may be easier just to bypass and splice into the amp input but I’m really rather puzzled !

any help gratefully received !

The buzz is either bad ground, or bad connection on the balanced audio lines. Either way the problem is most likely in the footwell connectors (C208-C308 or C301-C751). Best way is to bypass the connectors and solder & heat shrink each wire.

The colours for left & right are different in the loom from Radio to the footwell connectors, but in both front doors the audio lines are Yellow & Yellow-Black. The door looms are basically the same on both sides. (actually found the same type of left-right thing on my son's 2005 Freelander HSE). I guess it was easier for LR to simply make door looms regardless of which side they are fitted.

Ahh, that would make sense !
So while the cables are red and red/black at the head unit, they connect to yellow and yellow black. -this would explain it.

Are the footwell connectors easily accessible ?

currently I’ve just bypassed completely by running a cable direct to the amp from the head. Unfortunately somehow I’ve managed to flatten the battery and wasn’t able to test !

well, no- one said it would be dull !

thanks for the info

bob

Yes the connectors are reasonable easy to access. Just remove the panel by your feet (one screw), and you can see them. There are location pictures in RAVE. LR only used connectors to help installing the looms. You don't need then unless you plan to disassemble the entire car !!

Attached pictures shows before & after for my left footwell connections. I had audio issues to both left doors, plus intermittent operation on the EAS height switch.

Cheers,

will have a look. I do have some water ingress into drivers footwell and drivers door so it’s likely that may be an issue -and potentially not just with the audio connections !