Hesitant clutch pedal return

When starting there is no problem, but during a drive at some point the clutch doesn't seem to return fully and for this reason its hard to select a gear with the subsequent press. This must be associated with the heat of the engine as for the first two to three miles there is no issue. Then appears to be okay again for a while?

Does it need a simple bleed of the slave cylinder? why would this come and go?

Any ideas let me know as I'm avoiding garages lately.
Alastair.

It may be worth giving the system a bleed however when mine had this symptom it turned out to be the master cylinder giving up the ghost. A new cylinder assembly cured it. A new master cylinder and pipe assembly comes prefilled with fluid and the system will only need bleeding if the quick disconnect coupling doesn't seal itself as it should.
Allan

Cheers Allan, I had been reading through the forum posts on this, spooky clutches and so on. Before getting to a fix can I therefore assume from the number of people saying its best to replace the Master cylinder that the unit is either factory sealed or unfixable. Its the sort of thing that in older cars at least sounds fixable.

With regards those that say that the clutch pedal return spring is very light, does anyone have any suggestions as a replacement part (or just a delve in the box of bodge bits?). Cheers.

might be seizing where the clutch actuating arm enters the bell housing, try getting some w40 to it.

The problem and the possible fix is dependant on which model and gearbox you have....

My TD4 on an 03 plate had exactly the same prob. tryed bleeding it despite people saying it was a sealed system and not to. just popped the lid off and put some fluid it while getting someone to press the clutch peddle, this seemed to help the first time but then 5 or 6 months later problem returned worse. tryed it again and that completly screwed it up. Anyway... got a new master cyliner fitted (the one clutch peddle end) and so far so good. That was about 4 months ago now.
Good luck anyway, Chris.

Chris, this sounds a good option as nothing else has solved the problem. I haven't tampered with the Master cylinder yet, so I assume it is meant to be a sealed unit (first time I've ever heard of a sealed unit, then again I do prefer my older cars). So I guess you topped up with DOT3/4, and did you notice fluid above the rubber diaphragm of the deposit? Did the problem get worse due to resealing issues of the master cylinder reservoir?

I find it hard to believe that such a simple problem can result in such a major gear changing issue, and especially that it appears to be quite common. Anyways, will have a wee gander to see whats up. Cheers for the feedback. Al.

So you have a TD4. As said bleeding can often sort it or at least buy some time. Procedure is as normal but topping up is awkward because of situation. Bleed through to new fluid, better to use your hand to pump and return the pedal as pedal sometimes stays down, no issues with the rubber cap. Bleed nipple is above bell housing.

Okay, bled the clutch a little with no apparent change. Maybe I need to do this until the new liquid emerges. However I did pass at my local mechanic and he said that its most likely the clutch housing with the fingers/teeth and not the friction plate itself. This causes the vibration through the clutch pedal when you press it in slightly. I also get the squeeking noise reported by other members here but I think this can be localised to the master cylinder or the pedal support.

I've recently paid a small fortune on two handbrake cable replacements, so I'm racking my brain fro the cheapest solution no matter how short-term the fix. Think I'll bleed the system through, though I didn't find easy access to WD40 the slave area (guess its deep under the battery box), or is it access from below?

Anyway, if you have an idea please let me know. Ta.

Alastair.