Getting the seats out of (and back in to) a RR classic

C

champions

Guest

• Feb 22, 2005

• #1

At risk of asking stupid question of the year can anyone give me a steer on
getting the seats out of the range rover. I would just look at the car but
it's away at the moment.

I'm picking up some 'new' ones - how easy is it to get them in? Would you
attempt it in a motorway services!?

Thanks in advance.

 

D

Dougal

Guest

• Feb 22, 2005

• #2

> At risk of asking stupid question of the year can anyone give me a steer on
> getting the seats out of the range rover. I would just look at the car but
> it's away at the moment.
>
> I'm picking up some 'new' ones - how easy is it to get them in? Would you
> attempt it in a motorway services!?
>
> Thanks in advance.

2 door or 4 door?

 

A

aghasee

Guest

• Feb 22, 2005

• #3

"champions" <[email protected]> schreef in bericht
news:[email protected]
> At risk of asking stupid question of the year can anyone give me a
> steer on getting the seats out of the range rover. I would just look
> at the car but it's away at the moment.
>
> I'm picking up some 'new' ones - how easy is it to get them in? Would
> you attempt it in a motorway services!?

RRC 2 door: There's a bolt (or pin) in front of each slider. Get those
out and slide the seat out backwards. Reverse operation to get the other
seats in.
Can easily be done in under three minutes, if the bolts aren't rusted
solid, that is.

 

N

Nige

Guest

• Feb 22, 2005

• #4

champions wrote:
> At risk of asking stupid question of the year can anyone give me a
> steer on getting the seats out of the range rover. I would just look
> at the car but it's away at the moment.
>
> I'm picking up some 'new' ones - how easy is it to get them in? Would
> you attempt it in a motorway services!?
>
> Thanks in advance.

5 door is easy enough, the bases are bolted down with a few bots at the front of the squab. Remove bolts
& bases come out. The backs are just bolted down & easy to remove. Tip would be to take soem WD40 & only
half undo the bolts (they go through into the mucky area so the lower third of the bolt gets rusty) then
squirt into the threads & leave a few minutes. Then carry on !

I did mine in my front garden with nothing other than a ratchet set.

Easy as pie!!

Nige
--
Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"No, I'm Brian"

 

S

Steve Medlock

Guest

• Feb 25, 2005

• #5

On the subject of replacing seats, can anyone tell me please if you replace
the seats with integral seat belts with later seats whether you can also use
the later seat belts that bolt to door pillars?
"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> champions wrote:
>> At risk of asking stupid question of the year can anyone give me a
>> steer on getting the seats out of the range rover. I would just look
>> at the car but it's away at the moment.
>>
>> I'm picking up some 'new' ones - how easy is it to get them in? Would
>> you attempt it in a motorway services!?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>
> 5 door is easy enough, the bases are bolted down with a few bots at the
> front of the squab. Remove bolts & bases come out. The backs are just
> bolted down & easy to remove. Tip would be to take soem WD40 & only half
> undo the bolts (they go through into the mucky area so the lower third of
> the bolt gets rusty) then squirt into the threads & leave a few minutes.
> Then carry on !
>
> I did mine in my front garden with nothing other than a ratchet set.
>
> Easy as pie!!
>
> Nige
> --
> Subaru WRX (The Bitch)
>
> Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)
>
> "No, I'm Brian"
>

 

A

AJG

Guest

• Feb 26, 2005

• #6

In message <[email protected]>, aghasee
<[email protected]> writes
>
>RRC 2 door: There's a bolt (or pin) in front of each slider. Get those
>out and slide the seat out backwards. Reverse operation to get the other
>seats in.
>Can easily be done in under three minutes, if the bolts aren't rusted
>solid, that is.
>
There should a diagonal cross-brace at the back of the seat box that
needs the top end released and pivoted down to get it out of the way as
well ... and you'll probably need to remove the 'outboard' bit of box
trim (if it's there) to get at the bolt head.

One word of caution, three minutes is good ... as long as the bleedin
seat clears the rear seat box - took me over half an hour once because
one I stripped out was so tight.
--
AndyG

 

D

Dougal

Guest

• Feb 26, 2005

• #7

> On the subject of replacing seats, can anyone tell me please if you replace
> the seats with integral seat belts with later seats whether you can also use
> the later seat belts that bolt to door pillars?

Personally I can't understand why you'd want to do this - but each to
his own.

The original 2 door 'B' post was not designed to take seat belt loads,
it 'may' not be structurally adequate. It certainly doesn't have the
fixings built in.

The 2 door 'B' post is further rearward than on the 4 door. The 4 door
seat belt might be too short depending on the driver's physical
characteristics! Access to the belt will be difficult as will access to
the rear seats. Neither of these may concern you.

At floor level the 2 door seat attached to a crossmember built into the
floor plate. I suspect that this crossmember will interfere with the 4
door seat. Someone else probably has first-hand experience.

 

A

aghasee

Guest

• Feb 26, 2005

• #8

"AJG" <[email protected]> schreef in bericht
news:[email protected]
> In message <[email protected]>,
> aghasee <[email protected]> writes
>>
>> RRC 2 door: There's a bolt (or pin) in front of each slider. Get
>> those out and slide the seat out backwards. Reverse operation to get
>> the other seats in.
>> Can easily be done in under three minutes, if the bolts aren't rusted
>> solid, that is.
>>
> There should a diagonal cross-brace at the back of the seat box that

This bit is missing on mine then...

> needs the top end released and pivoted down to get it out of the way
> as well ... and you'll probably need to remove the 'outboard' bit of
> box trim (if it's there) to get at the bolt head.

I forgot to mention my ruster doesn't have any trimmings (anymore).

> One word of caution, three minutes is good ... as long as the bleedin
> seat clears the rear seat box - took me over half an hour once because
> one I stripped out was so tight.

Granted, maybe the carpets and sound-deadening materials in the rear
could be in the way, but surely it won't be much? Lifting the seat a bit
as when it clears the slider should do the job.

 

A

AJG

Guest

• Feb 26, 2005

• #9

In message <[email protected]>, aghasee
<[email protected]> writes
>"AJG" <[email protected]> schreef in bericht
>news:[email protected]
>
>> One word of caution, three minutes is good ... as long as the bleedin
>> seat clears the rear seat box - took me over half an hour once because
>> one I stripped out was so tight.
>
>Granted, maybe the carpets and sound-deadening materials in the rear
>could be in the way, but surely it won't be much? Lifting the seat a bit
>as when it clears the slider should do the job.
>
No trim and what's sound deadening?
Was just a pain, I assume the seat box was pushed back as far as it
would go when fitted. The seats normally have a smidgen of clearance so,
as you say, you sort of pivot them up off the rear set of runner-wheels,
this didn't. I used such phrases as 'I wasn't aware of the weight of
front seats' and 'My, this seat appears to not want to come out' ...

--
AndyG