Gear Stick Moves when Accelerating

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bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
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South London/North Kent
Probably nothing but thought I'd check! I noticed today when pulling away in 1st the gearstick would move to the right around an inch or so then move back to 'normal' position when driving, doesnt happen in other gears as far as I could tell.

Cheers
Josh.
 
bankz5152 said:
I'll have to get under and have a look! Hard to change?


Well it is pushing 450nm :D:D
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Fiddly, to get access, down the side of my engine. Not sure of the TD5, but can't imagine it's any easier. You'll at least have to support the weight of the engine, obviously. Once you remove bolts from the block as well as nut from the chassis it may wiggle out. However, I suspect you'll have to lift the engine a bit. Gearbox mounts were easier IIRC. @jamesmartin will be able to give a clearer picture. Or, tell you it's the gear box :eek:
 
I'll check the GB mounts as they'd be easier to change! I hope not! That said there is a bit of a noise coming from the transmission somewhere.. Sounds a bit like transmission windup when in low range
 
bankz5152 said:
I'll check the GB mounts as they'd be easier to change! I hope not! That said there is a bit of a noise coming from the transmission somewhere.. Sounds a bit like transmission windup when in low range
Click to expand...
The gearbox was an afterthought after I'd replied with my first post. I would have thought that there'd have to be a lot of wear on a shaft bearing to get that amount of movement on the gear lever. I'd expect you would have been having very noticeable problems getting gears in. If your engine is producing a lot of grunt, you drive it hard and or off road it then the torque is going to put extra force on the mounts. Given where the propshafts come out of the transfer box, then the gearbox mounts must take a lot of that torque.
 
Good point. Not going to be able to change them for a while though, away for a week then need my landy daily for 2 weeks for work. Guessing ill have to drive with less of a lead foot! :rolleyes:
 
bankz5152 said:
Ill double check both, be a pain if its both
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There are two gearbox mounts and they are handed, They are pretty cheap. I changed mine when I replaced my transfer box last year.
The engine gearbox assembly is mounted on two mounts at the front on the engine and two mounts on the gearbox so it must be supported carefully when either pair is removed, gearbox is not so bad but take care if you change the engine mounts best to take off the cooling fan and be certain you have the engine well supported

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/gearbox-mount-britpart-anr3201-p-7359.html
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/gearbox-mount-britpart-anr3200-p-7358.html
 
Just had a look, the gearbox ones look fine, cant see or feel any splits in them, bit couldnt fell all the way round one as it was blocked by the exhaust sheild.

How solid or soft should they be?

Same goes for the engine, but could get to the turbo side one due to the heat sheild.
 
bankz5152 said:
Just had a look, the gearbox ones look fine, cant see or feel any splits in them, bit couldnt fell all the way round one as it was blocked by the exhaust sheild.

How solid or soft should they be?

Same goes for the engine, but could get to the turbo side one due to the heat sheild.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but your engine will be putting a hell of a lot more force on them than you tickling them with your finger tips ;)
Can you get someone to rev it a bit while you're underneath? Someone you can trust :rolleyes: That'll still not imitate the forces involved in pulling away in first, but will be better than having a feel.
 
Mine did not seem so bad but I was changing the transfer box anyway so I thought it would be a good idea. The new ones are much stiffer, I recon the heat and stress get to them, I think they sometimes de-laminate and separate themselves from the metal backing, you could use a block of wood and a jack and gently lift the box to see how they react.
The engine mounts are a bit more of a story, they are a bit more expensive, and its harder to get them in and out, but if they are duff it might be worth the effort.
 
On my TD5 I replaced my gearbox mounts about two years ago when I did the overdrive as the rubber blocks were separating from the metal they were supposed to be bonded to. It's not too difficult to jack the gearbox up and replace them, but I find it needs the brackets on the box taking off to get them in and out and get at the box-side nuts on the mounting rubber itself. I did the engine mounts last summer. If you jack the engine up carefully there's just enough room to get the old ones out and the new ones in. There's enough flex on all the pipes and wires so you don't have to disconnect anything, other than take the fan cowling off, as I remember. But obviously, it's worth checking all around the engine every few pumps of the jack handle to make sure nothing's fouling or under strain. Not a difficult job. I'd guess about two of those spanner symbols in the Haynes rating system!
 
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