Fuel pump won't shut off.

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Sharry

Member
Posts
26
Location
Lancs
Hi, I'd like to pick your brains please. We're about to buy a really good used Freelander 2006 td4, manual. We had a test drive and we heard the fuel pump going through much of the test drive at the start but later not so sure if we could hear it. We looked around at a few other cars but decided to go for this one and went back a few hours later. We decided to give it another check over before paying the deposit and started the engine. Turning the key in the ignition, but not switching it on, the fuel pump started and when we turned the engine on it continued but seemed to get louder/faster. It didn't seem to want to turn off. The noise was coming from drivers side rear wheel arch. We mentioned it to the dealer who said he'd had a new after market fuel pump fitted as the old one did the it so he thought it needed a new one as its a fairly common problem. But the new one also doesn't turn off either. He showed us the receipt for the fuel pump and fitting and he called the mechanic he used to fit it, my hubby spoke to him for a while and he said that it was because it was an after market part and not genuine LR. It started first time each and every time we tried it, from cold. No juddering or loss of power whilst driving and no warning lights.... Is this right? From what I've read shouldn't it should turn off after a minute or so? My hubby seemed satisfied with it and read up about it and seems to think it isn't a problem but I'm a little concerned. We've put a small deposit down but if it's going to be a problem I don't want to take it on.

Could it be a blocked fuel pipe, injectors, some sensor or such? It has been sat on the forecourt for a couple of weeks without being turned on. It's a 2.0 diesel.

Its got a FSH by LR, 66k on the clock, one owner from new and seems to have been well looked after. The garage has a good rep and he seems genuine enough but can anyone put my mind at rest, or not?

Many thanks for any advice.
 
Last edited:
Sharry said:
Hi, I'd like to pick your brains please. We're about to buy a really good used Freelander 2006 td4, manual. We had a test drive and we heard the fuel pump going through much of the test drive at the start but later not so sure if we could hear it. We looked around at a few other cars but decided to go for this one and went back a few hours later. We decided to give it another check over before paying the deposit and started the engine. Turning the key in the ignition, but not switching it on, the fuel pump started and when we turned the engine on it continued but seemed to get louder/faster. It didn't seem to want to turn off. The noise was coming from drivers side rear wheel arch. We mentioned it to the dealer who said he'd had a new after market fuel pump fitted as the old one did the it so he thought it needed a new one as its a fairly common problem. But the new one also doesn't turn off either. He showed us the receipt for the fuel pump and fitting and he called the mechanic he used to fit it, my hubby spoke to him for a while and he said that it was because it was an after market part and not genuine LR. It started first time each and every time we tried it, from cold. No juddering or loss of power whilst driving and no warning lights.... Is this right? From what I've read shouldn't it should turn off after a minute or so? My hubby seemed satisfied with it and read up about it and seems to think it isn't a problem but I'm a little concerned. We've put a small deposit down but if it's going to be a problem I don't want to take it on.

Could it be a blocked fuel pipe, injectors, some sensor or such? It has been sat on the forecourt for a couple of weeks without being turned on. It's a 2.0 diesel.

Its got a FSH by LR, 66k on the clock, one owner from new and seems to have been well looked after. The garage has a good rep and he seems genuine enough but can anyone put my mind at rest, or not?

Many thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...

hi

please make sure the fuel pump is replaced with a genuine one,the cheap one will fail, with an oem one u will hear it at first and then will stop, it's an electric fuel pump that sits in the rear wheel arch along side the fuel filter , plse get them to replace both with genuine parts only .

new genuine pump and filter to buy I think is around £150

if it starts ok , pulls and the power is there , it will just be because the fuel pump needs replacing

not being rude but did u ensure the rear propshaft was fitted to the freelander

also as a quick test to check the vcu works ok on the prop , put the car into reverse and go backwards in a figure eight , this will give a rough idea to see if the unit on the prop is ok, this is only a rough test and a basic indication

makes sure all four tyres are the same make , size , same tread wear, very important , if tyres are different or mismatched will cause damage to the vcu , ird and rear diff

if it feels like the brakes are on ,or like its holding back , walk away as it can be an expensive repair , but just make sure the propshaft is fitted

does all the switches work, windows go up and down ,locks and unlocks

will the car start whilst hot , so after a run , turning the engine off , the. starting it again about 5-10 mins later

ensure also it comes with two keys and two fobs , they are expensive to replace

have u done a full credit check on the car, does it come with a warranty

hope it doesn't come across as rude but don't know how experienced u and hubby are ,

please by all means come back with any further questions, welcome to the forum and there is an extensive amount of information here and we are a friendly bunch ,lol
gary
 
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Hi Gary,

No, not rude at all! We're very novice with freelanders so any help you can give is appreciated, we have an oldish Toyota Surf as well so have some familiarity with 4x4s. All electrics work fine, and 2 keys, the ad said hpi checks been done but will ask to see them.

The fuel pump is new and we've seen the receipt and spoken to the mechanic who fitted it, even if it was non genuine it's still work okay wouldn't it? At least short term. The mechanic said he put the new one in but it was still making the exact same sound.

Tyres look pretty new, all matching Michelin, wears fine, nothing uneven,

Looks like we'll be going back to check the prop shaft etc, would you be able to see if it wasn't fitted?

This is where our ignorance shows, what's a vcu and ird?

Thanks again for the quick reply.
 
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Sharry said:
Hi Gary,

No, not rude at all! We're very novice with freelanders so any help you can give is appreciated, we have an oldish Toyota Surf as well so have some familiarity with 4x4s. All electrics work fine, and 2 keys, the ad said hpi checks been done but will ask to see them.

The fuel pump is new and we've seen the receipt and spoken to the mechanic who fitted it, even if it was non genuine it's still work okay wouldn't it? At least short term.

Tyres look pretty new, all matching Michelin, wears fine, nothing uneven,

Looks like we'll be going back to check the prop shaft etc.

This is where our ignorance shows, what's a vcu and ird?

Thanks again for the quick reply.
Click to expand...

ur very welcome , as I was in ur shoes until 5 years later got a fair amount of knowledge now

my apologise , on the propshaft it's in two parts , in the middle is a large round doughnut shaped thing , that's the vcu , viscious coupling Union , it has a special liquid inside , basically it's normally front wheel drive , when traction is lost on the rear wheels the rear propshaft will spin and the liquid inside the vcu heats up and engages the rear prop , thus becoming 4 wheel drive, a tc light will come up on the dashboard , hope that makes sense but tried to explain it in laymans terms

plus try the reverse figure of eight test , there is a full explanation of this via the search , called a wheel up test but the reverse tests just gives u a very basic condition test

if u do a search at the top right hand corner , there are pictures etc of what the vcu, ird etc ooks like , so u will then know what ur looking at , to ensure its fitted .

ird is attatched to the gearbox and is a called an intermediate reduction drive

sorry about that in just using abbreviations
 
Thanks again Gary. You must be an early riser too! Will do all of the checks you recommended and go well armed ; )
 
Sharry said:
Thanks again Gary. You must be an early riser too! Will do all of the checks you recommended and go well armed ; )
Click to expand...

no probs and ur very welcome , havent gone to bed yet, lol

if u do a search on various items can also print out the pics, will also find a link for u to print out with the full list of checks and what to look out for
 
here's a list so u can print it out in one go

hope it helps



1) check for stiffness in vcu/drivertrain. take it to an empty car park or similar, and try driving backwards on full lock in a figure of 8 , it shouldn't feel like the brakes are binding
2) check condition of intercooler hoses in engine bay. not a pricey repair, but could be a haggling point. allow £50 a set if they need replacing.
3) check hill descent control. turn on using switch, then select 1st gear on a downward slope. feet off pedals and let it go. it should speed up a bit, then you should feel the vehicle slowing, and hear the brakes pinging on and off as the HDC controls the speed.
4) watch for HDC warning light to flash when any other gear than 1st or reverse is selected.
5) get under vehicle and check rear prop is still fitted. many a drivetrain problem masked by removing rear prop.
6) check rear tailgate window drops slightly when door open switch operated.
7) watch for abs warning light, make sure it goes out. could be something as simple and cheap as brake light switch, could be abs sensors.
8) look for signs of water ingress to tool storage area in boot. is really common, reasonable simple to fix, but again, haggling point.
9) check for function of electric mirrors etc. they should get hot when engine is running, as heated mirrors are on all the time engine is running.
10) check service history, intervals are every 12k. For the vehicle shown, interval would have been 84k, so 88k is late, next due 96k or 100k depending on your outlook.
11) carefully remove dipstick with engine running. if oil rushes out under pressure, crankcase breather filter is blocked and needs replacement STRAIGHT AWAY. bear in mind, this test can make a huge mess if you pull it all the way out. just pull it a little, and cover with a rag.
12) do a search on here for common faults.
13) check all windows drop and return with window switches. any grinding or sticking is a sign of a failing regulator, as the cables are becoming frayed.
14) check operation of central locking from remote fob. one press drivers door only unlocks, two presses all doors unlock. one lock press, all doors lock. check both ignition keys work, keep them apart while you do this as transponder in one can affect other. only one ignition key ? a replacement will require coding and could be up to £150 from main stealer.


check tyres to ensure there the same make , size and wear

get the fuel pump and filter replaced with a genuine one

also see if the garage has a code reader they can plug in to see if any fault codes come up

check warranty and the small print

someone else may add to this is something has been forgotten

please don't be afraid to ask away , regardless if u think there daft, I'm good at asking them still , lol

good luck and plse let us know how u get on

u should get around 40 mpg on a run at around 65mph
 
if the fuel pump is noisy then I should as for it to be replaced at just over £100 for a Good one how ever they do run immediately you put the ignition on and the do not stop, cheap after market ones last about a year pay cheap and you pay twice is an old saying and it is true, good luck with it ,I have a 2006 TD4 auto hse and it has been a very good car for the last 3 years I have had it ,and my wife has a 1998 1800 petrol and yes she has had the head gasket done , but she has had it for 14 years now and does not want to part with it. Freelanders are very much under rated .
 
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Thanks teddywood1, will be sure to get it replaced, either get them to do or haggle. So the aftermarket ones don't shut off? That'll explain it.
 
Sharry said:
Thanks teddywood1, will be sure to get it replaced, either get them to do or haggle. So the aftermarket ones don't shut off? That'll explain it.
Click to expand...

cheap and genuine ones don't turn off, just as teddy said the cheap ones are continually noisy and will fail , so always recommend to get it replaced with a genuine one , as it will stop making a noise after about a minute or so starting the car and last considerably longer

hope u didn't think I was stepping on ur toes teddy , lol
 
Thanks again both, have a good Sunday. I'm going to get Adam (hubby) to sign up so no doubt you'll be hearing from him over the next few months.
 
gstuart said:
cheap and genuine ones don't turn off, just as teddy said the cheap ones are continually noisy and will fail , so always recommend to get it replaced with a genuine one , as it will stop making a noise after about a minute or so starting the car and last considerably longer

hope u didn't think I was stepping on ur toes teddy , lol
Click to expand...
No not at all I have just put a couple of coma's in so it reads better.
 
Thanks for all the help and suggestions...we've just been back at the dealers and spent a while going through the list of checks and tests. Im very happy to say i think we've got a cracker of a freelander on the way.
Cant wait to start spending some time behind the wheel!
 
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