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Here you go... Again
P38A Front Suspension - "wobbles"
- Thread starter Frank_38
- Start date
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Defo OEM bushes, I had serious death wobble from polys fitted by PO, but seems you're going that way anyway. You can fit diy with a bearing puller kit and impact driver. Dont grind the ends of the bush bolts until you get them moving. Sds drill and chisel v effective...loosen the nut off the bolt a few turns and put the end of the chisel in the hole
54 - FRONT AXLE AND FINAL DRIVE
Differential to axle case nuts ............................................ 40 30 +
Propeller shaft to differential nuts .................................. 48 35
Radius arms to axle nuts and bolts .................................. 125 92
Radius arms to chassis nuts ............................................ 160 118
Shock absorbers to axle nuts ........................................... 45 33
Air spring securing pin retaining bolts .............................. 20 15 +
Propeller shaft to front axle nuts ................................... 48 35
Track rods to steering knuckles nuts ................................ 50 37
Panhard rod to axle bolt ................................................... 200 148
Drag link to steering knuckle nut ...................................... 50 37
Brake calipers to steering knuckles bolts ......................... 220 162
Mass damper to front axle bolts ....................................... 45.
NM first number, ft/lbs second number.
It’s in rave , or the workshop manual for P38.
J
Differential to axle case nuts ............................................ 40 30 +
Propeller shaft to differential nuts .................................. 48 35
Radius arms to axle nuts and bolts .................................. 125 92
Radius arms to chassis nuts ............................................ 160 118
Shock absorbers to axle nuts ........................................... 45 33
Air spring securing pin retaining bolts .............................. 20 15 +
Propeller shaft to front axle nuts ................................... 48 35
Track rods to steering knuckles nuts ................................ 50 37
Panhard rod to axle bolt ................................................... 200 148
Drag link to steering knuckle nut ...................................... 50 37
Brake calipers to steering knuckles bolts ......................... 220 162
Mass damper to front axle bolts ....................................... 45.
NM first number, ft/lbs second number.
It’s in rave , or the workshop manual for P38.
J
Good morning everyone,
I have received all the parts and wanted to get started today.
I already sprayed the screws a few days ago. They can all be unscrewed.
However, I've put it off until tomorrow as the following questions have arisen:
1. Can the car stand on the ramp (marked in red) during this repair or does the front axle have to "float"? In other words, lifted in the middle with a jack?
I can work very well with the ramp.
2. main reason for today's shift: do I have to remove the anti-roll bar completely - otherwise I can't get the screw out (red)?
or is it enough to unscrew one screw from both sides (green) and it "slips" down?
I have already bought the stabilizers for the anti-roll bar - maybe it would be a good idea to do everything immediately.
Thanks!
I have received all the parts and wanted to get started today.
I already sprayed the screws a few days ago. They can all be unscrewed.
However, I've put it off until tomorrow as the following questions have arisen:
1. Can the car stand on the ramp (marked in red) during this repair or does the front axle have to "float"? In other words, lifted in the middle with a jack?
I can work very well with the ramp.
2. main reason for today's shift: do I have to remove the anti-roll bar completely - otherwise I can't get the screw out (red)?
or is it enough to unscrew one screw from both sides (green) and it "slips" down?
I have already bought the stabilizers for the anti-roll bar - maybe it would be a good idea to do everything immediately.
Thanks!
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FEI
Active Member
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- 75
Id put the chassis on jack stands as high up in the air as safely possible so that most of the weight is on the jack stands and not the axle.
When you reinstall the radius arms you might want to be able to move the axle around independetly of the car to get bolts to line up.
The wheel ramps arent going to make much of a difference in my opinion.
Just remove the whole anti roll bar, its very easy to get in and out and it makes for a way less cluttered work area.
Removing the tie rod also makes it mush easier the get the raduis arms in and out.
When i did mine i had the wheels off and the axle hanging from the shock absorbers at full droop and the front airbags where inflated so that the car would sit at standard height if on its own wheels. I stuggled abit with the axle wanting to rotate. I did have both raduis arms and the panhard rod out at the same time though.
I think if i where to do it again id keep the wheels on, fully deflate the front airbags and have the axle sit at about standard height position relative to the chassis.
When you reinstall the radius arms you might want to be able to move the axle around independetly of the car to get bolts to line up.
The wheel ramps arent going to make much of a difference in my opinion.
Just remove the whole anti roll bar, its very easy to get in and out and it makes for a way less cluttered work area.
Removing the tie rod also makes it mush easier the get the raduis arms in and out.
When i did mine i had the wheels off and the axle hanging from the shock absorbers at full droop and the front airbags where inflated so that the car would sit at standard height if on its own wheels. I stuggled abit with the axle wanting to rotate. I did have both raduis arms and the panhard rod out at the same time though.
I think if i where to do it again id keep the wheels on, fully deflate the front airbags and have the axle sit at about standard height position relative to the chassis.
Last edited:
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- Near Heathrow.
+1 on support the car & let the axle hang on the shocks. Do them one side at a time & the axle will rotate less when loosening & doing up the bolts.
- Posts
- 4,308
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
You will struggle on those ramps. Also probably dangerous to have the car on it's wheels with raduis arm(s) removed because there nothing to stop the axle moving back & forth.
It really needs tall axle stands supporting the chassis.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
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When I did mine I put the chassis on stands and had the wheels on the ground so axle was supported and did one arm at a time that way nothing moved
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
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- Thames Valley
I did my Defender radius arms on the floor, essentially the same I guess.
Chock all the wheels so nothing moves, went straight back on no problem
Chock all the wheels so nothing moves, went straight back on no problem
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i guess thats one less thing to worry about, not having air
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