fip timing

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
K

kevind

Member
Posts
57
Location
Castleford West Yorks
Hi, is it really necessary to have to take cylinder head off to remove the front timing cover, engine ran backwards and has lost its timing, replacement head fitted recon injectors and pump awaiting fitting but need to check fip timing marks( bright links etc on chains), many thanks for sensible help.
 
No it can be removed without taking head off. But you will need to drop the sump. It is located on two dowels at the bottom one each side needs carefully disengaging from them, remove any studs at the top first. Make sure you retighten the crank bolt properly as specified or you will lose the oil pump. Can't see how the engine could have run backwards to be honest. Did you have it locked at TDC number one firing when the head was done? Unless you turned the engine with the head off and got it 180 degrees out. Or turned the engine backwards which is a big no no.
 
cheers, none of the above , it started then clattered abit, ( replacement tappets), then coughed rattled as though it was trying to throw a couple of rods through the block, put more white smoke out than a world war 2 destroyer , which is when I killed it and cryed.
 
kevind said:
cheers, none of the above , it started then clattered abit, ( replacement tappets), then coughed rattled as though it was trying to throw a couple of rods through the block, put more white smoke out than a world war 2 destroyer , which is when I killed it and cryed.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you have done something badly wrong. You may have to remove the head in any case to replace some bent valves. Hope not but sounds pretty ominous. If the pump timing is that far out so will be the cam timing.
 
Hi,update, dropped sump, removed front cover, had pump checked reconned all ok, timing was miles out so reset bottom chain to dimples in cogs, had to turn engine back 90 degrees ( as per Rave) installed pump, turned engine forwards inserted flywheel pin , rechecked cam position set using tool to position it ,then to refit front cover had to remove both upper and lower tensioner pins, lower one ok but as removed upper one cam rotated backwards..... do I now either retime it all or slacken cam to cog bolt reset cam without using tensioner pin, cheers
 
kevind said:
Hi,update, dropped sump, removed front cover, had pump checked reconned all ok, timing was miles out so reset bottom chain to dimples in cogs, had to turn engine back 90 degrees ( as per Rave) installed pump, turned engine forwards inserted flywheel pin , rechecked cam position set using tool to position it ,then to refit front cover had to remove both upper and lower tensioner pins, lower one ok but as removed upper one cam rotated backwards..... do I now either retime it all or slacken cam to cog bolt reset cam without using tensioner pin, cheers
Click to expand...

Cam sprocket should be fitted after front cover is in place. Engine locked at TDC number one firing. Tensioner retention pin in place. With cam holding tool in place. Cam lobes should be flat on number one, position sprocket on chain with the cuts outs across the engine and chain tight to pump sprocket. Fit bolt and finger tighten only so that any movement on release of tensioner allows sprocket to rotate. Release tensioner. Then torque and angle tighten bolt. Remove cam holding tool. Job should be done. Remember 4.61 mm feelers under inlet side of cam holder if chains have done more than 20,000 Km. Flat on head if chains are new.
 
HI, done the above, now have to adjust the fip, do I have to turn engine clockwise 4 times to get it to the 90degrees btdc to set gauge allowing checking /adjusting fip or can I turn anticlockwise to get the 90degree cam lobe up , starting position for adjusting fip, is it better to start with pump set to extreme away from engine position.many thanks again for help. Just out of curiosity has the flywheel got one or more holes that the timing lock pin will go into( cars an auto), as I appear to have lost all timing its just a thought. I dont want to have to strip front cover off again as Im getting fed up of this car now.
 
Last edited:
kevind said:
HI, done the above, now have to adjust the fip, do I have to turn engine clockwise 4 times to get it to the 90degrees btdc to set gauge allowing checking /adjusting fip or can I turn anticlockwise to get the 90degree cam lobe up , starting position for adjusting fip, is it better to start with pump set to extreme away from engine position.many thanks again for help. Just out of curiosity has the flywheel got one or more holes that the timing lock pin will go into( cars an auto), as I appear to have lost all timing its just a thought. I dont want to have to strip front cover off again as Im getting fed up of this car now.
Click to expand...
Not sure if it helps or not but the Flywheel on the Defender only has a single Locking hole as far as I recall...
 
Never turn the engine backward as the chain can jump teeth on the crankshaft sprocket and you will have to start again
 
kevind said:
HI, done the above, now have to adjust the fip, do I have to turn engine clockwise 4 times to get it to the 90degrees btdc to set gauge allowing checking /adjusting fip or can I turn anticlockwise to get the 90degree cam lobe up , starting position for adjusting fip, is it better to start with pump set to extreme away from engine position.many thanks again for help. Just out of curiosity has the flywheel got one or more holes that the timing lock pin will go into( cars an auto), as I appear to have lost all timing its just a thought. I dont want to have to strip front cover off again as Im getting fed up of this car now.
Click to expand...

No twice. IF you were at TDC number one firing in the first place that is. When you set the bright links the engine MUST be locked at TDC. The timing pin is NOT removed and the engine turned until the cam has been fitted lobes flat across top with holder in position tensioner released and sprocket torqued up. From TDC firing piston goes down (power stroke) back up (exhaust stroke) that is one revolution of crank. Back down (induction stroke) back up (compression stroke). That is two revolutions. EVERY piston fires every two revolutions of the crank. There is only one timing pin hole in the flywheel although the CPS pips can be snagged giving the impression of engine lock if not careful. Just jiggling the engine very slightly back and forth would confirm a pip snag because engine will move in one direction but not in the other. Engine should be locked solid in both directions when timing pin is engaged. If the timing has been done properly then the position of the cam lobes will indicate TDC number one firing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Timing marks for fl1 td4
Replies
2
Views
1K
Alliey
A
V
110 TD5 Timing - Rotating cam when sprocket is disconnected
Replies
0
Views
476
versteckt
V
W
Timing case breather with compressor
Replies
3
Views
992
miktdish
miktdish
I
Injector lash issue after head gasket
Replies
3
Views
562
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
M
Can a broken injector pump require change of timing belt?
Replies
1
Views
962
Anaconda
A
Back
Top