fairly rusty door bolts

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T

Tim_Mac

Guest
hi,
i bought replacement screws for all my hinges, and some of the old ones
won't come out. the bonnet screws went on nicely and i'm glad i did it
as some of the old screws broke as i was unscrewing them! i know
others have posted the same question, and the obvious answer is to
drill, but my situation might be a bit different in that i can get
excellent grip on the screw heads, i just can't apply enough force to
turn them. any tips on how to get more turning force? the
screw-driver has a bolt-type of end that i could put a socket on and
then work with the wrench, but i can't figure out a way of keeping
enough inward pressure to keep the screwdriver in the screw head.

some of the door screws are painted over and some are rusty. i tried
tapping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer to loosen up the screw
but it didn't seem to do any good. also gave it plenty of WD40 but
it's not getting anywhere near the threads so i guess that might also
be a dead end. i have titanium coated drill bits which i'm sure can
handle the job but i bet it takes ages to drill through a whole screw,
and i have lots of them to do :)

thanks in advance.
tim

 
Tim_Mac <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Impact driver... like a screw driver, you whack it with a ammer and it turns
at the same time as applying downwards force on the screw. Just the ticket
for this sort of stuff. Be prepared to have to fit new captive nuts they
hook on to the door pillar on a thin strip of metal that will probably
bugger up as you take out the screw.

Lee D


 
hi lee. thanks for the advice, never heard of an impact driver but i'm
sure my local tool shop will have some.
the new set of screws came with replacement captive nuts which is
great, although i lost the first one down the hole behind the hinge
where they slot in. i looked all around the frame and it looks like it
is completely closed, i might be able to get it out with a magnet and a
piece of string...

thanks again
tim

 
Tim_Mac wrote:

> ages to drill through a whole screw

As Lee says, try an impact driver. Never had much luck with them
myself, I just drill the head off the screw, you don't need to drill it
all out! Don't worry if it falls down, you can retrieve it from the
bottom.

Regards

William MacLeod

 
Tim_Mac wrote:

> i looked all around the frame and it looks like it
> is completely closed, i might be able to get it out with a magnet and a
> piece of string...

I've always managed to get them out through the bottom hinge cut out
bit with a screwdriver :)

Regards

William MacLeod

 
On 2006-04-11, Tim_Mac <[email protected]> wrote:

> hi lee. thanks for the advice, never heard of an impact driver but i'm
> sure my local tool shop will have some.

They're a bit strange to use at first. When you press the end in, it
turns a little, depending on which way you set the mechanism. Put the
biggest bit that fits in, turn it as far as you can in the direction
you want to turn it, then whack it with a hammer. The idea is that it
turns the screw a little to un-sieze it. Whacking it repeatedly
doesn't make it keep turning through 360 degrees, not on the ones I've
used.

Sorry if this seems like noddy instructions, but I don't think they're
particularly intuitive tools if you've not used one before.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 

"Ian Rawlings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2006-04-11, Tim_Mac <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> hi lee. thanks for the advice, never heard of an impact driver but i'm
>> sure my local tool shop will have some.
>
> They're a bit strange to use at first. When you press the end in, it
> turns a little, depending on which way you set the mechanism. Put the
> biggest bit that fits in, turn it as far as you can in the direction
> you want to turn it, then whack it with a hammer. The idea is that it
> turns the screw a little to un-sieze it. Whacking it repeatedly
> doesn't make it keep turning through 360 degrees, not on the ones I've
> used.
>
> Sorry if this seems like noddy instructions, but I don't think they're
> particularly intuitive tools if you've not used one before.
>
> --
> Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

Thats a very good bit of info Ian as you say they come without instructions
and isn't not at all obvious what to do aside from hitting the blunt end.
One other thing wear a leather glove ( industrial ) the buggers do tend to
jump a bit when you shock them usually the hand grippy surface is very rough
and will ot do your manicure any favours
Derek
( Smug git with air impact driver )


 
On 2006-04-11, Derek <[email protected]> wrote:

> Thats a very good bit of info Ian as you say they come without instructions
> and isn't not at all obvious what to do aside from hitting the blunt end.

It's amazing how crap my instructions seem on a second read though..

Much of the time I've used them, the additional diameter and more
chunky bits mean that I can twist it harder anyway so I've not needed
to whack it much, just used it as a better normal screwdriver.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 

"Ian Rawlings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2006-04-11, Derek <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Thats a very good bit of info Ian as you say they come without
>> instructions
>> and isn't not at all obvious what to do aside from hitting the blunt end.
>
> It's amazing how crap my instructions seem on a second read though..
>
> Much of the time I've used them, the additional diameter and more
> chunky bits mean that I can twist it harder anyway so I've not needed
> to whack it much, just used it as a better normal screwdriver.
>
> --
> Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

You're right that extra grip does help the only really badly seized screws
that needed the ID and a huge thunder stick were the silly brake drum
retainers ( remember those) but the air gun is so much more - sort of "Dirty
Harry" needs the proper bits tho or it just turns off the ribs " go ahead
screw make my day!"
Derek
fuelled by Carlsberg


 
In message <[email protected]>
"Tim_Mac" <[email protected]> wrote:

> hi,
> i bought replacement screws for all my hinges, and some of the old ones
> won't come out. the bonnet screws went on nicely and i'm glad i did it
> as some of the old screws broke as i was unscrewing them! i know
> others have posted the same question, and the obvious answer is to
> drill, but my situation might be a bit different in that i can get
> excellent grip on the screw heads, i just can't apply enough force to
> turn them. any tips on how to get more turning force? the
> screw-driver has a bolt-type of end that i could put a socket on and
> then work with the wrench, but i can't figure out a way of keeping
> enough inward pressure to keep the screwdriver in the screw head.
>
> some of the door screws are painted over and some are rusty. i tried
> tapping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer to loosen up the screw
> but it didn't seem to do any good. also gave it plenty of WD40 but
> it's not getting anywhere near the threads so i guess that might also
> be a dead end. i have titanium coated drill bits which i'm sure can
> handle the job but i bet it takes ages to drill through a whole screw,
> and i have lots of them to do :)
>
> thanks in advance.
> tim
>

Drill them - if they are stiff to turn then the captive nuts will
possibly bend/rip out the bit of metal between the scew hole and
the big square one above it - then you have real problems.
The screws are pretty soft metal - any only drill bit will do
(though sharp is obviously a good idea), just select one that
will give approximately the right angles so you don't damage the hinge.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
hi all, many thanks for the advice.
in reference to william's suggestion that i wouldn't need to drill out
the entire screw... is this assuming that i have a screw extractor
reverse drill bit?
otherwise i can't see how you get any grip to unscrew the shaft after
i've drilled the head off the screw.
thanks
tim

 
On or around Wed, 12 Apr 2006 08:29:10 +0100, beamendsltd
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>In message <[email protected]>
> "Tim_Mac" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> hi,
>> i bought replacement screws for all my hinges, and some of the old ones
>> won't come out. the bonnet screws went on nicely and i'm glad i did it
>> as some of the old screws broke as i was unscrewing them! i know
>> others have posted the same question, and the obvious answer is to
>> drill, but my situation might be a bit different in that i can get
>> excellent grip on the screw heads, i just can't apply enough force to
>> turn them. any tips on how to get more turning force? the
>> screw-driver has a bolt-type of end that i could put a socket on and
>> then work with the wrench, but i can't figure out a way of keeping
>> enough inward pressure to keep the screwdriver in the screw head.
>>
>> some of the door screws are painted over and some are rusty. i tried
>> tapping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer to loosen up the screw
>> but it didn't seem to do any good. also gave it plenty of WD40 but
>> it's not getting anywhere near the threads so i guess that might also
>> be a dead end. i have titanium coated drill bits which i'm sure can
>> handle the job but i bet it takes ages to drill through a whole screw,
>> and i have lots of them to do :)
>>
>> thanks in advance.
>> tim
>>
>
>Drill them - if they are stiff to turn then the captive nuts will
>possibly bend/rip out the bit of metal between the scew hole and
>the big square one above it - then you have real problems.
>The screws are pretty soft metal - any only drill bit will do
>(though sharp is obviously a good idea), just select one that
>will give approximately the right angles so you don't damage the hinge.

if you drill the head with a drill the size of the thread (5/16", I expect)
then you won't touch the hinges, but you will dislodge the head.

however...

If you're just trying to get the door off, unbolt it from the hinge and
leave the hinge on the pillar (there are nuts on the inside of the door).
If you're trying to replace the pillar, then I suggest buying new bolts and
hinges and captive nuts, if the old ones won't come apart.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Festina Lente" (Hasten slowly) Suetonius (c.70-c.140) Augustus, 25
 
tim wrote:

> otherwise i can't see how you get any grip to unscrew the shaft after
> i've drilled the head off the screw.

You don't need any fancy screw extractor bits Tim, once you have the
head off the screw (and the door off) you should be able to bend the
captive hinge out with the shaft still stuck in it and retrieve it out
the rectangular hole (it might fall to the bottom, in which case you
can either leave it or fish it out the bottom hole!) Then throw the
rusty captive nut and shaft which are still stuck together into the
pile for the metal recycler :)

Regards

William MacLeod

 

"beamendsltd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:97b54c164e%[email protected]...
> In message <[email protected]>
> "Tim_Mac" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> hi,
>> i bought replacement screws for all my hinges, and some of the old ones
>> won't come out. the bonnet screws went on nicely and i'm glad i did it
>> as some of the old screws broke as i was unscrewing them! i know
>> others have posted the same question, and the obvious answer is to
>> drill, but my situation might be a bit different in that i can get
>> excellent grip on the screw heads, i just can't apply enough force to
>> turn them. any tips on how to get more turning force? the
>> screw-driver has a bolt-type of end that i could put a socket on and
>> then work with the wrench, but i can't figure out a way of keeping
>> enough inward pressure to keep the screwdriver in the screw head.
>>
>> some of the door screws are painted over and some are rusty. i tried
>> tapping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer to loosen up the screw
>> but it didn't seem to do any good. also gave it plenty of WD40 but
>> it's not getting anywhere near the threads so i guess that might also
>> be a dead end. i have titanium coated drill bits which i'm sure can
>> handle the job but i bet it takes ages to drill through a whole screw,
>> and i have lots of them to do :)
>>
>> thanks in advance.
>> tim


>>
>
> Drill them - if they are stiff to turn then the captive nuts will
> possibly bend/rip out the bit of metal between the scew hole and
> the big square one above it - then you have real problems.
> The screws are pretty soft metal - any only drill bit will do
> (though sharp is obviously a good idea), just select one that
> will give approximately the right angles so you don't damage the hinge.
>
> Richard
>
> --
> www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
> RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
> Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay

Yup. I agree they are really sneaky, what happens alot is they crack off
nicely undo for about a turn then go tight and rip the captive nut off this
is due to the exsposed theads getting really corroded.
If you are replacing the hinges you could cut through the hinge and bolts
with an angle grinder.

Good luck

Icky


 
In message <[email protected]>
"Tim_Mac" <[email protected]> wrote:

> hi all, many thanks for the advice.
> in reference to william's suggestion that i wouldn't need to drill out
> the entire screw... is this assuming that i have a screw extractor
> reverse drill bit?
> otherwise i can't see how you get any grip to unscrew the shaft after
> i've drilled the head off the screw.
> thanks
> tim
>

When you drill the head(s) off the hinge can be removed, leaving
the shank of the screw sticking out. The cage of the captive nut
can then be got off it with a screwdriver/pliers.

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
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