EkA issue Plus door issue.

Ok so i have a T reg (98?) 2.5 diesel currently sat in Bulgaria doing nothing but ticking me off....

I have a key code lockout, over last few weeks its been increasingly taking me longer to activate/deactivate the central locking till one day just would not unlock, i managed to get inside open doors but now can not start the engine, went to input code into drivers door but the key just goes left and right without, unlocking or locking or inputting code, as if nothing there, at same time door handle is also not opening the door.

I have take the door card off and there are 3 metal rods, 1 is attached and goes to the inner door lock plungers? not sure that is what they are called, one looks like its hanging from the door handle and as a weird metal shape on the end, and finally there is a 3rd that seems straight from locking mechanism and as some weird spear shape, so im guessing 1 of these goes to my door handle (cant see where it goes on latch, and 1 goes to the key barrel?

Basically untill i fix my key barrel i cant input the key code, how do i fix that problem first? secondly why would my fob just stop working? (new key and coding from dealer). and to fix these problems do i need to remove the door latch?

Alternatively is there anyway to bypass the immobaliser?

All of the rods need to be fitted. Common for the 1 for key to lock 1 to fall off, we had it and of course you only find out when it’s to late.
The rod ends should only go in 1 place lift them around and see where they reach. To try and figure it out, it was fairly obvious when I had to get into mine before.
Do you have any pics? It’s been a while since I had the door card off.
Also common for the micro switches to break but you won’t know that till you can get the key working in the door.
When you say your internal lock plunger. Do you mean this operates the lock and also activates the other doors or just the drivers door.

As for the fob can’t say sorry other than is the led working when you press the buttons?
Do a search on here there has been a lot written and fixes, and even pics of door latches that may help.
Good luck.

J

Sounds like the lock actuator microswitches have failed. You won't be able to input the EKA without all 3 working. @martyuk put up some lock tests somewhere. As a bonus he also sells refurbed actuators from his website. P38spares or similar.

The key should lock and unlock the door even with battery disconnected, it is mechanical and does not need any power. It's connection rod to the latch MUST be in place. Make sure it is then try again. The L shaped spear type end goes into a clip on the barrel lock lever. It at some time must have had a new latch fitted because that type fitting did not come in until later than 1998. All early models disconnected both links from latch end.

From the lock switch-test instructions you can probably work out how to spoof the EKA code entry with leads & jumpers on the connector just to get past the lockout situation.
The switches are just make/break and there is no fancy resistance network being read by the electronics as far as I know.
@martyuk has ceased actively doing the switchpack refurbs I think, because too many people failed to send in their old unit to provide a stock for refurbishing.
Not only that, its a labour-intensive job and the price being asked was far too generous (IMHO).

DanClarke said:

From the lock switch-test instructions you can probably work out how to spoof the EKA code entry with leads & jumpers on the connector just to get past the lockout situation.
The switches are just make/break and there is no fancy resistance network being read by the electronics as far as I know.
@martyuk has ceased actively doing the switchpack refurbs I think, because too many people failed to send in their old unit to provide a stock for refurbishing.
Not only that, its a labour-intensive job and the price being asked was far too generous (IMHO).

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If he can't open the door with the key the link has come off. Until he puts it back on and sees what he gets nothing else is relevant.

wammers said:

If he can't open the door with the key the link has come off. Until he puts it back on and sees what he gets nothing else is relevant.

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Sorry, I thought he said he had the door-card off and could see all the links were off and that code entry was impossible via the key. This must mean he has access to the plug connector for the door switch pack?
I assumed therefore that he has access to the inside of the vehicle. Maybe I misunderstood.

DanClarke said:

Sorry, I thought he said he had the door-card off and could see all the links were off and that code entry was impossible via the key. This must mean he has access to the plug connector for the door switch pack?
I assumed therefore that he has access to the inside of the vehicle. Maybe I misunderstood.

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The key barrel lever is obviously not connected to the latch or he could lock and unlock car with key. Until he reconnects that he cannot possibly be using any micro switches.

I agree that until the OP gets links connected he won't be actuating any microswitches or opening any doors with a key from the outside.
If its in such a parlous state then I assume that when the fobs were responding (before the flat battery) the doors were popping and the link between the drivers door-handle and the lock was functional even if entering EKA would have been impossible as the close/open link was/is disconnected and no EKA can be entered.
What is more important to the OP?
1. Starting & running the car.
Or,
2. Re-attaching the links and then having a go at entering the EKA code with doorlock switches that may (or may not) function?

All I was suggesting is that if you have access to the inside of the car and the drivers door-card is off, you can probably enter the EKA from there without worrying about getting the links re-attached.
I would be interested to hear what the OP's view is on this.

wow guys very impressed with the response, actually overwhelmed thanks.....

I ideally need to be able to start and drive the car as priority that way i can make use of the very cheap garage labor charges in Bulgaria

I do feel its only a case of rods coming off and re attaching but 3 ft of snow is hard to work in, plus i have no clue where these rods go not much viewing room even less working room, the one bar is slight more bent also as when i put window down it sometimes unlocks my door so guessing bent from window., i have been having central locking problems since purchase and would love to get this sorted.

Where are you? Although with the snow I am guessing you are west Bulgaria.

If you have been having CDL problems since buying car then there’s a good chance you are having problems with your micro switches.(or fob?)
You need to fit the rods first to confirm.

J

Dlpeters said:

wow guys very impressed with the response, actually overwhelmed thanks.....

I ideally need to be able to start and drive the car as priority that way i can make use of the very cheap garage labor charges in Bulgaria

I do feel its only a case of rods coming off and re attaching but 3 ft of snow is hard to work in, plus i have no clue where these rods go not much viewing room even less working room, the one bar is slight more bent also as when i put window down it sometimes unlocks my door so guessing bent from window., i have been having central locking problems since purchase and would love to get this sorted.

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Ok, so, if I understand this correctly... You can open the drivers door, and the door card is off but the vehicle says "Engine Disabled" when you try to start it with the key in the ignition?
If you have the EKA code for the vehicle you may be able to get the code entered using the attached procedure and thereafter start it normally and get it to your garage for them to fit a new latch/switchpack for you.
The attached procedure is written for a UK vehicle, so if yours is LHD then the lock/unlock directions will most likely be reversed.
I do hope it helps, but I am afraid I can give no guarantees my friend.
As yours is a 98 it might have the earlier 2-plug connector to the latch mechanism.
The picture shows both types of connector (single & Dual-plug).

On our LHD clockwise is lock.
If you get it wrong you have to wait longer each time. Unless you “open the door “in between ? Somebody will know.

Been such along time had to use it.

J

marjon said:

On our LHD clockwise is lock.
If you get it wrong you have to wait longer each time. Unless you “open the door “in between ? Somebody will know.

Been such along time had to use it.

J

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Yes, opening the door after 2 tries SHOULD reset the count but only if he door ajar switch is working. The door ajar is also in the actuator.

If you have a Nanocom or similar then you may be able to enter the EKA through that. Key may need syncing as well but you cannot do that without working lock actuator and we're back to sorting the roads and lock actuator. Some Rover MGF lock actuators are similar enough to transfer parts from. They tend to be cheaper on the Bay.

CDL switch pack can produce the "engine disabled" message, it has just started happening on mine. At the moment I can re-lock and unlock again and after a couple of attempts the message will go. Time for me to replace the switches I think

Thanks guys so much appreciation, yes i am west Bulgaria doing a season as a chalet host in Bansko, but its a UK RHD car, i have had to put code in once before so familiar with that procedure, but since the rods are out cant use door key point to input may try the suggested theory to just get deactivated and drive it to garage, or may just get local garage to low load it to garage.

From door card removal and taped up inner door foam cover being cut in various places think this as happened before got to love your P38s

thank you all again ill keep you posted.

You will be very lucky if you can find a local garage that understands your issue
There’s plenty of help available here, even if it’s a bit of a “get you home” fix.
But good luck
J

Get your hand in the door & manipulate the door lock by hand to replicate you applying the eka code.

I do this with door looks in my hand & as long as the loom is connected it should work, unless you have other issue's.