EAS Vs ABS Probably A Q For Datatek

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Doo

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Ok, bare with me, I know the obvious answer will be replace the sensors, however, I don't get paid for another 2 weeks and 400 quid a month doesn't go far when you have to pay well over half of it in direct debits for insurance, garage rent, phone bill, etc o_O

Anyway,
EAS and ABS question. I know I have a slightly dodgy front left EAS lift sensor as it flags up on a reading sometimes, but the car goes through all heights and normally stays there. I think it is/was a dirty plug on the sensor.

However, once every few weeks or months it goes nuts and starts lifting to full height while driving. Usually once I've gone over 30mph. If I can catch it in time, switch off ignition & switch back on (in neutral and rolling) it resets and we're fine.

If I don't catch it in time (if I'm doing 70mph for instance and there's nowhere to pull over) the four lights start flashing then the arse end drops down to the bump stops, but the front is still at full height!!

If I have my laptop with me I can pull over and plug in to fix it and away it goes for another few weeks or months.

Now recently the car has started showing an ABS & TC fault which is worst when reversing as the warning lights stay on. Now I know the ABS light comes on and wont go off when reversing, only when going forwards. So I guess this is what is causing it to be unhappy when reversing.

Anyhoo, I tested the sensors with a code reader and they all came back with 2.3v but the front right came with 2.1v and wondered if this is what is throwing the EAS off kilter at speed??

My guess is the sensor isn't dead because the ABS light normally goes out when you roll forwards at over 6mph. I wonder if it is just being pushed out with a build up of rust??

Anyone come across this particular issue before? EAS system overhauled a year ago and the car gets used very little. I've covered around 4k miles in a year...

Thanks all.....again ;)

Edit: I lock the EAS using the button, but if it's locked or not it goes full height when it goes nuts. Any other time, it works perfectly. If I leave the lock off, it goes to motorway height when over 50mph and back up when slowing back down. This takes a few moments of constant lower speed. If I have been over 50mph and say, come up to a roundabout, it waits to see if I am going to accelerate again, so I know it works fine pretty much all the time.
 
I suspect the cause might be your dodgy front sensor, I have a similar problem on my project P38 except it doesn't drop. In my case I think it's a dodgy rear sensor. It's worth checking the connectors in the EAS box including the one under the valve block for corrosion.
If you read the faults, what do you get?
Sorry, no idea about your ABS problem.
 
From memory the fault is FL sensor out of range or some such. I'll check again with the laptop. But it doesn't always show it...

Spoke to a mate and we went through the ABS hilarity and he thinks the same as me, the air gap has increased,possibly due to a small build up of surface rust on the axle.
 
The ABS sensors must be pushed in until they touch the reluctor ring. The gap is set as the reluctor ring turns. A wheel bearing with slight wear can cause the gap to increase and give poor readings.
 
The ABS sensors must be pushed in until they touch the reluctor ring. The gap is set as the reluctor ring turns. A wheel bearing with slight wear can cause the gap to increase and give poor readings.

Had them checked at MoT (I asked him to give them a good going over as I wondered if I had bearing wear) but they came out tip top, not a bit of play o_O

So it just remains to check for rust. The plan is to remove the sensor, clean any rust and push it in till it stops. Then do another reading and see if the static figures have altered. I found a new sensor on the bay for 15 quid! Is that right?? :eek:
 
Had them checked at MoT (I asked him to give them a good going over as I wondered if I had bearing wear) but they came out tip top, not a bit of play o_O

So it just remains to check for rust. The plan is to remove the sensor, clean any rust and push it in till it stops. Then do another reading and see if the static figures have altered. I found a new sensor on the bay for 15 quid! Is that right?? :eek:

Good sensors can be had for that price but also some bad ones. So it's a tossup. Check it for continuity as soon as you get it, if it has continuity it should be fine.
 
Good sensors can be had for that price but also some bad ones. So it's a tossup. Check it for continuity as soon as you get it, if it has continuity it should be fine.

I don't want to buy a sensor unnecessarily at any price to be honest.

However, my thoughts are, if the sensor was knackered, surely the ABS lamp would stay lit so I am going with air gap. I'll get it done and report back... Might be a week or so :)
 
Get it done? Just needs pushing in!

I'm kinda stuck at home today because my knee is just howling in pain so I can barely walk, let alone go down 3 flights of stairs and down the path to the car :(

So it's leg up and Netflix for me :p

Funny enough, watching "How It's Made" had a bit about new knee joints... My mate got a titanium one and he said the pain he used to go through was torture, but now it's amazing as he can walk the dogs and whatnot pain free in the knee. He was waiting for a new knee for his other leg last time I spoke to him.

I neeeeed a kneeeeee :confused:
 
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