EAS/Battery fault

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

ljs1701

New Member
Posts
18
Hi,

I'm posting on behalf of my dad.

He went out in the car today and everything was fine. Drove all the way to Leicester from Coventry and EAS fault flashed up while driving. Pulled over and turned the car off to try and reset the computer but it didn't work. The car refused to start under it's own power. Turning the key just gave symptoms of a flat battery and with a jump starter it was fine although there was still the EAS fault.

Drove off and after a while ABS fault appeared followed by 35MPH MAX appearing on the computer coupled with reduced power but managed to make it home. The car did not drop to the bumpstops.

When I got home and tried to turn it on there was only clicking and lots of faults on the screen(EAS, ABS, Traction - traction failure had not appeared until now) but with a jump start it starts fine but still with the 35MPH limit and EAS fault.

I removed the battery and took it to work to be tested. The test came back saying it needed to be recharged and retested (the tester read just over 11v). I have't been able to test the alternator yet.

I have moved some wires about on my OBDII reader cable so that it will read the EAS faults using EASunlock Suite (from RSWsolutions) on my laptop. However, something seems to be wrong as in the received column I keep getting 80 when it should be reading FF. The connection works as I can read the sensor heights etc but I cannot clear the faults that appear and I'm not even sure they are true faults because the 80 readings. We tried to start the car again but just got clicking so jumped it again. The car ran with the same faults but when we turned it off and tried to start it again straight away it didn't even turn over and the dash electrics faded and died in seconds.

Has anybody used this software before and know how to fix the readings or know another method to read and clear the suspension faults?

The pictures I have included show the readings I got. The first one shows the supposed fault codes.

The second picture shows the height sensor settings the computer seems to have stored for each height level (something seems wrong here as the settings for some of the sensors are the same for more than one level and low profile seems to be set higher than standard).

The third picture shows the current height sensor readings (our driveway slopes down on the drivers side).
 

Attachments

  • Fault Reader 1.jpg
    Fault Reader 1.jpg
    135.6 KB · Views: 301
  • Height Sensor Settings.jpg
    Height Sensor Settings.jpg
    143.9 KB · Views: 583
  • Current Sensor Heights.jpg
    Current Sensor Heights.jpg
    140.5 KB · Views: 355
A similar list of faults was posted on here a few days ago .......Think it turned out be a dead battery cell & need a new battery...............

So No1 thing to do is buy a new battery!!! ... Then sort the faults (which will probs clear easily enough when you get the correct voltage to the EAS Module)
 
Forget the faults until you have sorted the battery and the alternator, the faults may not actually be there, just symptoms of low voltage upsetting the ECU's.
 
Yes a good battery seems essential starting point. But don`t economise on size. The electronics seem sensitive to voltage variations, the wiring/earth points are aging and both v8s and 6pot diesels take a lot to turn `em over.
 
Hi,

I'm posting on behalf of my dad.

He went out in the car today and everything was fine. Drove all the way to Leicester from Coventry and EAS fault flashed up while driving. Pulled over and turned the car off to try and reset the computer but it didn't work. The car refused to start under it's own power. Turning the key just gave symptoms of a flat battery and with a jump starter it was fine although there was still the EAS fault.

Drove off and after a while ABS fault appeared followed by 35MPH MAX appearing on the computer coupled with reduced power but managed to make it home. The car did not drop to the bumpstops.

When I got home and tried to turn it on there was only clicking and lots of faults on the screen(EAS, ABS, Traction - traction failure had not appeared until now) but with a jump start it starts fine but still with the 35MPH limit and EAS fault.

I removed the battery and took it to work to be tested. The test came back saying it needed to be recharged and retested (the tester read just over 11v). I have't been able to test the alternator yet.

I have moved some wires about on my OBDII reader cable so that it will read the EAS faults using EASunlock Suite (from RSWsolutions) on my laptop. However, something seems to be wrong as in the received column I keep getting 80 when it should be reading FF. The connection works as I can read the sensor heights etc but I cannot clear the faults that appear and I'm not even sure they are true faults because the 80 readings. We tried to start the car again but just got clicking so jumped it again. The car ran with the same faults but when we turned it off and tried to start it again straight away it didn't even turn over and the dash electrics faded and died in seconds.

Has anybody used this software before and know how to fix the readings or know another method to read and clear the suspension faults?

The pictures I have included show the readings I got. The first one shows the supposed fault codes.

The second picture shows the height sensor settings the computer seems to have stored for each height level (something seems wrong here as the settings for some of the sensors are the same for more than one level and low profile seems to be set higher than standard).

The third picture shows the current height sensor readings (our driveway slopes down on the drivers side).


The software is reading nothing, your photo's show the Status = Red, unless you get Status = Green you are reading nothing.
Suggest you read the how to use it info on the RSW site and check your cable is correct. If you are using a USB to serial adaptor and your computer is on Vista you may have a problem. Someone has suggested a Cardbus RS232 port works better on Vista.
 
Managed to get the alternator tested and it was reading low voltage so I have just been out to buy a new one.

Just had a quick look at it but can't seem to see where the tensioner is. Any one able to tell me where it is or do I not need to hold it in place while I change it over?

I am indeed using a USB to serial adapter on Vista, it's the one that came with the cable and works fine on a normal OBDII car but I guess with the RR using a slightly different system it might not be working properly. I have a friend bringing an old laptop round that has a built in serial port. I'll also check over my cable modifications.
 
Last edited:
Found this info on a BMW forum:

TDS belts are a bit more involved. On a petrol car, you just insert an allen key into the adjuster wheel and force against the tension and pull the belt off. On the TDS (and all M51 units) the belt goes through a swivelling steel bracket with a trensioner wheel. I did one last week on a 325td. rad shroud off, followed by the viscous fan (32mm spanner, reverse thread and a good sharp clout with a steel hammer). You need to unbolt the actual damper which looks like a miniature shock absorber and then remove the through bolt on the wheel. The wheel comes out along with the belt.

Before I begin taking the whole fan off, does any one know if Land Rover changed the design of the tensioner or if it's the same as the engines used in the BMW diesels?

Edit: never mind, all sorted now. Did it a slightly different and more unorthodox way
 
Last edited:
Back
Top