Do I need to pull the slave cylinder out????? [SOLVED]

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xpuser8334

xpuser8334

Active Member
Posts
471
Location
Nottinghamshire
Ok... I have a full clutch pedal (TD4 GETRAG Box)
Clutch was replaced at the same time the idiots put the engine in (badly)
I have just got it running AFTER 3YRS being parked up.
I cant engage ANY gears when the engine is running.
Have I got to strip the flaming thing out again??
new slave cylinder and clutch fitted at the same time as the engine.
also has a reletively new genuine master cylinder too.
(probably still air in there somewhere)

Any advice please.
Thanks in adv.
Wayne
 
OK.. I have bled this normally.
bled it backwards under pressure
still got a full pedal, but the car "wants" to move when i try engaging gear, but wont let me fully engage.
I wouldnt be surprised if my completely useless nephews put the bl00dy clutch plate the wrong way around!!! - gear box off job - I can see it coming!!!!
 
Its easier to drop the whole engine, gearbox and IRD out the bottom in one unit. All the stuff that needs disconnected / removed to drop the gearbox alone is 95% of whats holding the whole engine in place, so ten more minutes work drops the whole lot out. The advantage is it is MUCH easier to refit the gearbox and IRD when the whole lot is on the floor rather than trying to lift the gearbox up into place and get the splines to engage in situ.
 
OH.... unfortunately, I will be doing this on my back, because I don't have a ramp... I do have a 3.5ton trolley jack, So I can get the car up as high as possible I guess.
I think I might take it to A1 Clutches or somewhere like that - I have arthritis in my spine, and struggle with doing this kind a stuff now :-(
 
I did it without ramps, but you will need a proper engine hoist, axle stands and various blocks of wood.

The Getrag box weighs a hell of a lot and there was no way I was going to be able to lift it in and out on my own. Lying under the car with a gearbox on my chest and bench-pressing it up into place and wiggling it onto the splines is fine for a Ford Escort, but the Landy box is about twice that weight.
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dave21478 said:
I did it without ramps, but you will need a proper engine hoist, axle stands and various blocks of wood.

The Getrag box weighs a hell of a lot and there was no way I was going to be able to lift it in and out on my own. Lying under the car with a gearbox on my chest and bench-pressing it up into place and wiggling it onto the splines is fine for a Ford Escort, but the Landy box is about twice that weight.
View attachment 89449 View attachment 89450
Click to expand...
Dave21478,
whats the minimum height I would need to lift it up??? (looking at yours there)
 
Dunno.
The height of the engine plus anything you put under the engine.

I would take a wild guess and say the bottom of the bumper was about the height of my nuts, and Im not a very tall person.


I had the front up on axle stands as normal, undid everything, took the weight of the engine on my engine hoist, undid the engine mounts and lowered the engine to the dollys. I then wrapped a lifting sling around the chassis rails and used the hoist to lift the empty shell (its not all that heavy) up higher to clear the motor. You can see the final position is the axle stands at their highest setting plus a couple of hefty blocks of wood under each one.

If you are going to remove just the gearbox, you really need to remove the subframe and IRD first anyway. With that off and all the other shart around the gearbox, the only stuff left holding the rest of the engine in is the exhaust (unbolt from turbo and shove out the way) the fuel lines (undo the push-fit connectors) some wiring to the injectors and MAF (Easiest to undo it all at the ECU end) and the power steering pipes. If you have aircon then either undo the pipes if its buggered anyway or if it still works unbolt the compressor and tie it up out of the way leaving the pipework intact. Its really not a lot of extra work and the ease of separating and refitting the gearbox on the ground makes it well worthwhile. Sometimes gearboxes can be a right nightmare to refit due to the splines not lining up perfectly and I REALLY didnt want to be wrestling the weight of the gearbox up in the air above me.
Also while the engine is out it would be madness not to replace the thermostat as thats a nightmare job with the engine in place.
 
dave21478 said:
Dunno.
The height of the engine plus anything you put under the engine.

I would take a wild guess and say the bottom of the bumper was about the height of my nuts, and Im not a very tall person.


I had the front up on axle stands as normal, undid everything, took the weight of the engine on my engine hoist, undid the engine mounts and lowered the engine to the dollys. I then wrapped a lifting sling around the chassis rails and used the hoist to lift the empty shell (its not all that heavy) up higher to clear the motor. You can see the final position is the axle stands at their highest setting plus a couple of hefty blocks of wood under each one.

If you are going to remove just the gearbox, you really need to remove the subframe and IRD first anyway. With that off and all the other shart around the gearbox, the only stuff left holding the rest of the engine in is the exhaust (unbolt from turbo and shove out the way) the fuel lines (undo the push-fit connectors) some wiring to the injectors and MAF (Easiest to undo it all at the ECU end) and the power steering pipes. If you have aircon then either undo the pipes if its buggered anyway or if it still works unbolt the compressor and tie it up out of the way leaving the pipework intact. Its really not a lot of extra work and the ease of separating and refitting the gearbox on the ground makes it well worthwhile. Sometimes gearboxes can be a right nightmare to refit due to the splines not lining up perfectly and I REALLY didnt want to be wrestling the weight of the gearbox up in the air above me.
Also while the engine is out it would be madness not to replace the thermostat as thats a nightmare job with the engine in place.
Click to expand...

STOP !!!!!!!!!!!! Before stripping out it may be after 3 years the clutch plate and driven plate have stuck together. If you can engage 2nd with the engine off and if there is space in front of you !!!!! Depress the clutch and turn the starter and drive it off. Keep the clutch pressed and there may be a bang as the clutch frees. Good luck !!!!!!
 
o.k... well.. engine and box on the floor. good job i had the mini digger....
There was rust on the flywheel and on the pressure plate, but I'm glad I took the engine out.
The IRD was held on with two bolts.... the top two, and they were loose.
the rear engine mounting bracket (onto the IRD) had one bolt holding it to the engine.
I did try to free the clutch, but it didn't free off - but after 3hrs of taking the engine out,.. for some reason, I feel quite satisfied that I have the opportunity to fix what others had c0cked up..
anyway... I will post my findings... but i think a new slave cylinder is on the cards.
 
Eventually.... it wasn't the clutch at all.
the monkeys who dropped the engine initially must have fecked the selector shaft in the gearbox... new box in it now.... all sorted.
 
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