Distressing smell

Still a slight smell of petrol coming from the rear of the S3 despite
overhauling carb and checking all pipes. Oh dear. Then I fill up the
petrol tank to 2/3 and smell gets even worse. Oh deary dear. Probably
got a crack in the tank. Better take it into the garage and get it up on
the high-lift so we can have a look.

"What seems to be the problem then?" So I explain and we spend a good 15
mins rummaging around and eventually find a damp patch on top of the
u-bend shaped bit in the middle of the tank.

"Well, I reckon you've got a crack in the tank, then." Genius. "Way I
see it is: you've got 2 choices. You can either replace the tank, or
never fill it over half-way." Had I been paying money for this advice I
would have been less than enamoured with the depth of Dorset insight.
But as it is only costing me a beer I am dutifully grateful for the
dispensed wisdom and trundle off home to look up tanks on Paddocks.

Now I come to the problem. Apparently there are 2 types of tank on LWB
rear-fill S3s. One with a 'six-screw sender' and one with a 'metal-clip
sender'. However, because the bolts holding the tank up are really
rusty, and so is the tank, I will probably damage it in removing it to
have a look. And Paddocks don't stock the six-screw version any more, so
I would like to be really certain before I replace it.

Does anyone know how I can tell which tank I have without taking it off
the vehicle first? Or, does anyone know where you can get the six-screw
version of the tank if I need that one? <Ping Beamends>

TIA

Dan.

There should be ( at least there was on mine ) an inspection hatch type
thingy in the rear floor, to allow access to the sender and the pipework.


"Dan Burdge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Still a slight smell of petrol coming from the rear of the S3 despite
> overhauling carb and checking all pipes. Oh dear. Then I fill up the
> petrol tank to 2/3 and smell gets even worse. Oh deary dear. Probably got
> a crack in the tank. Better take it into the garage and get it up on the
> high-lift so we can have a look.
>
> "What seems to be the problem then?" So I explain and we spend a good 15
> mins rummaging around and eventually find a damp patch on top of the
> u-bend shaped bit in the middle of the tank.
>
> "Well, I reckon you've got a crack in the tank, then." Genius. "Way I see
> it is: you've got 2 choices. You can either replace the tank, or never
> fill it over half-way." Had I been paying money for this advice I would
> have been less than enamoured with the depth of Dorset insight. But as it
> is only costing me a beer I am dutifully grateful for the dispensed wisdom
> and trundle off home to look up tanks on Paddocks.
>
> Now I come to the problem. Apparently there are 2 types of tank on LWB
> rear-fill S3s. One with a 'six-screw sender' and one with a 'metal-clip
> sender'. However, because the bolts holding the tank up are really rusty,
> and so is the tank, I will probably damage it in removing it to have a
> look. And Paddocks don't stock the six-screw version any more, so I would
> like to be really certain before I replace it.
>
> Does anyone know how I can tell which tank I have without taking it off
> the vehicle first? Or, does anyone know where you can get the six-screw
> version of the tank if I need that one? <Ping Beamends>
>
> TIA
>
> Dan.

>
>Now I come to the problem. Apparently there are 2 types of tank on LWB
>rear-fill S3s. One with a 'six-screw sender' and one with a 'metal-clip
>sender'. However, because the bolts holding the tank up are really
>rusty, and so is the tank, I will probably damage it in removing it to
>have a look. And Paddocks don't stock the six-screw version any more, so
>I would like to be really certain before I replace it.
>
>Does anyone know how I can tell which tank I have without taking it off
>the vehicle first? Or, does anyone know where you can get the six-screw
>version of the tank if I need that one? <Ping Beamends>
>

The early tank was fitted on S3 up to Suffix B chassis (about 1975,
IIRC) There should, however, be two small access panels in the load
bed which can be removed to access the sender.

The early tank with screws is still available from Craddocks, but
rekon to shell out about £300+ for it.

It would be easier to get the later tank and the sender to go with it
if you have the early type.

Alex

Fab. I'll pull up the carpet and have a look. You're quite right, new
style tank plus sender is about 120 plus VAT. Now all I need is the
bolts and I'm set. Many thanks.

Alex wrote:
>>Now I come to the problem. Apparently there are 2 types of tank on LWB
>>rear-fill S3s. One with a 'six-screw sender' and one with a 'metal-clip
>>sender'. However, because the bolts holding the tank up are really
>>rusty, and so is the tank, I will probably damage it in removing it to
>>have a look. And Paddocks don't stock the six-screw version any more, so
>>I would like to be really certain before I replace it.
>>
>>Does anyone know how I can tell which tank I have without taking it off
>>the vehicle first? Or, does anyone know where you can get the six-screw
>>version of the tank if I need that one? <Ping Beamends>
>>
>
> The early tank was fitted on S3 up to Suffix B chassis (about 1975,
> IIRC) There should, however, be two small access panels in the load
> bed which can be removed to access the sender.
>
> The early tank with screws is still available from Craddocks, but
> rekon to shell out about £300+ for it.
>
> It would be easier to get the later tank and the sender to go with it
> if you have the early type.
>
> Alex

Dan Burdge wrote:

> Still a slight smell of petrol coming from the rear of the S3 despite
> overhauling carb and checking all pipes. Oh dear. Then I fill up the
> petrol tank to 2/3 and smell gets even worse. Oh deary dear. Probably
> got a crack in the tank. Better take it into the garage and get it up on
> the high-lift so we can have a look.
>
> "What seems to be the problem then?" So I explain and we spend a good 15
> mins rummaging around and eventually find a damp patch on top of the
> u-bend shaped bit in the middle of the tank.
>
> "Well, I reckon you've got a crack in the tank, then." Genius. "Way I
> see it is: you've got 2 choices. You can either replace the tank, or
> never fill it over half-way." Had I been paying money for this advice I
> would have been less than enamoured with the depth of Dorset insight.
> But as it is only costing me a beer I am dutifully grateful for the
> dispensed wisdom and trundle off home to look up tanks on Paddocks.
>
> Now I come to the problem. Apparently there are 2 types of tank on LWB
> rear-fill S3s. One with a 'six-screw sender' and one with a 'metal-clip
> sender'. However, because the bolts holding the tank up are really
> rusty, and so is the tank, I will probably damage it in removing it to
> have a look. And Paddocks don't stock the six-screw version any more, so
> I would like to be really certain before I replace it.
>
> Does anyone know how I can tell which tank I have without taking it off
> the vehicle first? Or, does anyone know where you can get the six-screw
> version of the tank if I need that one? <Ping Beamends>
>
> TIA
>
> Dan.

Consider having your tank repaired. I had a Series I tank repaired a few
years ago when I couldn't locate a suitable replacement. My tank had rotted
at a number of places and was in a very poor condition - holes in the base
and half way up the rear.

Hartlepool Radiator Company use the Re-Nu process and give a "lifetime
warranty".
http://www.fuel-tank-renu.co.uk/pages/tanks.html

They arranged to collect and deliver from/to Surrey and it was all very
prompt and easy.

Edgar