Discs, pads,

Marge threw a shoe yesterday, or, more to the point I think I let one of
the pads wear down to the metal.

Leaving aside the fact I should've realised etc. Paddocks were
excellent. Discs are a whole 8.75 each, so it seemed sensible to order
the lot, rather than just pads. I slipped up though, in asking the fatal
question, "Is there anything else I need?", rather than first checking
the HBOL.

Yikes! HBOL says I need to take the font hub assembly off - makes sense,
obviously, but I'm missing the hub gasket and a new lockwasher for the
nut. I shall have to creep slowly over to Pete at Christian Autos in
Kingswood for those (nice man, Pete), but that's not the *real*
problem...

What's stumping me is the endfloat adjustment on the way back: how do
you persuade the adjuster nut to stay still whilst you torque-up the
locknut? HBOL characteristically says "use a large open-ended spanner",
I guess on my cranium (to relieve the pain), as I can't see how one will
fit past the hub flange itself, especially when there's a box spanner or
huge socket in the way!

This has now become a
'check-it-all-out-thoroughly-before-loosening-anything' operation, wot
it should've been in the first place. So here's the questions (so far):

1. what size is the hub locknut, and do the team prefer box spanner
or socket for this?

2. is the a trick to adjusting the endfloat, or is this the usual Haynes
'hide the nastiness from the punters until they're up to
the armpits' thing?

3. what's the trick with the locknut?

4. who will win the 3.30 at Warwick?

5. Should I give up now, whilst still only a bit behind, and head
for the garage?

Worried of Bristle.

PS: If it helps, I fancy 'Heather Lad' to lay @8:1 in the 2:55 at
Southwell, but, given the way today's going, the others'll probably drop
dead in the starting gate and it'll limp to victory all the way down the
course. SM.

PPS. For anyone else reading this: don't get hooked -
disc changing's a mug's game...

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:
> Marge threw a shoe yesterday, or, more to the point I think I let one of
> the pads wear down to the metal.
>
> Leaving aside the fact I should've realised etc. Paddocks were
> excellent. Discs are a whole 8.75 each, so it seemed sensible to order
> the lot, rather than just pads. I slipped up though, in asking the fatal
> question, "Is there anything else I need?", rather than first checking
> the HBOL.
>
> Yikes! HBOL says I need to take the font hub assembly off - makes sense,
> obviously, but I'm missing the hub gasket and a new lockwasher for the
> nut. I shall have to creep slowly over to Pete at Christian Autos in
> Kingswood for those (nice man, Pete), but that's not the *real* problem...
>
> What's stumping me is the endfloat adjustment on the way back: how do
> you persuade the adjuster nut to stay still whilst you torque-up the
> locknut? HBOL characteristically says "use a large open-ended spanner",
> I guess on my cranium (to relieve the pain), as I can't see how one will
> fit past the hub flange itself, especially when there's a box spanner or
> huge socket in the way!
>
> This has now become a
> 'check-it-all-out-thoroughly-before-loosening-anything' operation, wot
> it should've been in the first place. So here's the questions (so far):
>
> 1. what size is the hub locknut, and do the team prefer box spanner
> or socket for this?
>
> 2. is the a trick to adjusting the endfloat, or is this the usual Haynes
> 'hide the nastiness from the punters until they're up to
> the armpits' thing?
>
> 3. what's the trick with the locknut?
>
> 4. who will win the 3.30 at Warwick?
>
> 5. Should I give up now, whilst still only a bit behind, and head
> for the garage?
>
> Worried of Bristle.
>
> PS: If it helps, I fancy 'Heather Lad' to lay @8:1 in the 2:55 at
> Southwell, but, given the way today's going, the others'll probably drop
> dead in the starting gate and it'll limp to victory all the way down the
> course. SM.
>
> PPS. For anyone else reading this: don't get hooked -
> disc changing's a mug's game...
>
Sorry can't answer you questions, but I got a laugh out of ya post..

S

In article <[email protected]>, Silas
<[email protected]> writes
>Sorry can't answer you questions, but I got a laugh out of ya post..

Well, you have to try. But, in the case of those discs...


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

I am not too sure if this is correct but I did it last week and have done
about 2000km since.

I only replacd the read discs mind (300Tdi Disco). Removed all the bits you
mentioned. (You will need a old style socket to remove the calipers - by
this I mean not a hex drive, and not one of these jobbies that drives on the
flat part of the nut - have a look at the nuts) I needed to buy a 13mm
socket to remove the calipers and a 14mm to remove the discs from the hub
thingys.

From there it is pretty straight forward but you will also want some
threadlock (locktite) to put on the caliper and hub bolts as it seems to
have this on when they come out. I just used a gas pliers to tighten the
stuffing big hub bolt - I think this is around a 56mm or thereabouts. Once I
have it reasonably tight, I spin the wheel around a few times and shake the
whole thing to make sure it is seated. I then just loosen it a smidgen, slip
on the lock washer (which I reused) and then add the second big nut and
tighten -with gas pliers - and make sure the whole thing feels tight but
still spins freely.

I used a silicone gasket to seal the hub flanges back on.

As said, this has done a few long trips since then with no problems.

If you want to get the correct socket to do this you are probably looking at
3/4 inch drive sockets which are not cheap.

regards
Stephen

"SpamTrapSeeSig" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Silas
> <[email protected]> writes
>>Sorry can't answer you questions, but I got a laugh out of ya post..
>
> Well, you have to try. But, in the case of those discs...
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Simonm.
>
> --
> simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
> SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
> EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
> GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

In article <[email protected]>, Fanie
<[email protected]> writes
[snip]
>If you want to get the correct socket to do this you are probably looking at
>3/4 inch drive sockets which are not cheap.

Many, many thanks for that! It's great to hear from someone who's been
there - I was just about to head out to the spares place. I think I'll
see how it goes using the process you describe - have instant gasket,
etc., so shouldn't be too bad.

Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:

> Marge threw a shoe yesterday, or, more to the point I think I let one of
> the pads wear down to the metal.
>
> Leaving aside the fact I should've realised etc. Paddocks were
> excellent. Discs are a whole 8.75 each, so it seemed sensible to order
> the lot, rather than just pads. I slipped up though, in asking the fatal
> question, "Is there anything else I need?", rather than first checking
> the HBOL.
>
> Yikes! HBOL says I need to take the font hub assembly off - makes sense,
> obviously, but I'm missing the hub gasket and a new lockwasher for the
> nut. I shall have to creep slowly over to Pete at Christian Autos in
> Kingswood for those (nice man, Pete), but that's not the *real* problem...
>
> What's stumping me is the endfloat adjustment on the way back: how do
> you persuade the adjuster nut to stay still whilst you torque-up the
> locknut? HBOL characteristically says "use a large open-ended spanner",
> I guess on my cranium (to relieve the pain), as I can't see how one will
> fit past the hub flange itself, especially when there's a box spanner or
> huge socket in the way!
>
> This has now become a
> 'check-it-all-out-thoroughly-before-loosening-anything' operation, wot
> it should've been in the first place. So here's the questions (so far):
>
> 1. what size is the hub locknut, and do the team prefer box spanner
> or socket for this?

Box spanner 52mm - they're fairly easy to come by and relatively cheap.
Don't waste your money on sockets of this size.

> 2. is the a trick to adjusting the endfloat, or is this the usual Haynes
> 'hide the nastiness from the punters until they're up to
> the armpits' thing?

Trial and error, largely, I'm afraid. You want to aim for minimum but
definite end play when the lock nut is tight. See also 3 below.

> 3. what's the trick with the locknut?

The lockwasher goes between the lock and adjusting nuts and having an
internal tang largely prevents the lock nut turning the adjusting nut.
As a result of clerance in the threads etc. it's not quite that simple
and the adjustment will change a bit as you tighten the lock nut - hence
'trial and error' as mentioned above. Don't bend the lock washer until
you are satisfied with the end play setting.

> 5. Should I give up now, whilst still only a bit behind, and head
> for the garage?

No! They won't do any better than you. It's a valuable learning
experience. If you take your time you might actually end up enjoying the
task.

> Worried of Bristle.
>

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:56:22 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig
<[email protected]> wrote:

>1. what size is the hub locknut, and do the team prefer box spanner
> or socket for this?

Paddocks or any other landrover parts shop should sell the proper
socket/box spanner for the job. One for a series is only about a fiver
i think.
Worth buying as its easier than a hammer and chisel and you save money
by not having the replace the nuts too after you chew them up with the
chisel!

On or around Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:56:22 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Yikes! HBOL says I need to take the font hub assembly off - makes sense,
>obviously, but I'm missing the hub gasket and a new lockwasher

cornflake packet.

and the lockwasher has at least 2 uses in it, maybe 3 - after you straighten
it out, you've got 2 places where it's been used and shouldn't be used
again, totalling a bit more than 1/3 of the circumference. hammer the
washer flat, and then, on re-assembly, bend an unused bit of washer up to
hold the flat on the nut.

'course, if someone's already done that...


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

In article <[email protected]>, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> writes
>On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:56:22 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>1. what size is the hub locknut, and do the team prefer box spanner
>> or socket for this?
>
>Paddocks or any other landrover parts shop should sell the proper
>socket/box spanner for the job. One for a series is only about a fiver
>i think.
>Worth buying as its easier than a hammer and chisel and you save money
>by not having the replace the nuts too after you chew them up with the
>chisel!

That does sound like a good idea.

The plot thickens though: The original problem was ticking at certain
steering wheel positions, then lots of squealing + loss of braking
efficiency for a while (sounded like a Routemaster for a bit). It went
away though and the braking came back a bit. It never pulled to one
side, but all the noise came from the left.

Now I look, the disks are worn less than 1.5mm overall from their new
thickness, and the pads only about 1/3-1/2 way through the acceptable
range. ?There's no sign of a leak, there's no apparent play in the stub
axle, although there's a lot of slop in the transmission (about 20-30deg
play with t'other wheel on the graound and centre diff-lock engaged.

Next stop the rear drums + shoes, unless anyone's got a better idea?

This is definitely becoming a 'Doh!' moment.

Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

In article <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> writes
>On or around Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:56:22 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig
><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Yikes! HBOL says I need to take the font hub assembly off - makes sense,
>>obviously, but I'm missing the hub gasket and a new lockwasher
>
>cornflake packet.
>
>and the lockwasher has at least 2 uses in it, maybe 3 - after you straighten
>it out, you've got 2 places where it's been used and shouldn't be used
>again, totalling a bit more than 1/3 of the circumference. hammer the
>washer flat, and then, on re-assembly, bend an unused bit of washer up to
>hold the flat on the nut.
>
>'course, if someone's already done that...

Points well taken

Meanwhile...

Just taken the drum off on that side. OK, the shoes need doing within
2000 miles or so, but no sign of damage or break-up or anything really.
Bearings at the back feel OK too. There is a bit of a weep from the
swivel I guess (supposed to be EP-whatsit once and forever grease), but
not abnormal. It's getting too dark tonight, but I'll clean the swivel
housing off and check it over carefully, although goodness knows how you
check if it's got *enough* grease (compared to just *some* grease). So I
suppose it could be the CVJ, but it wasn't a CVJ noise originally...

The old girl's just playing with me again, I know it...

Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

In article <[email protected]>,
DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk (Dougal) wrote:

> Box spanner 52mm - they're fairly easy to come by and relatively cheap.
> Don't waste your money on sockets of this size.

I disagree, a socket enables a torque wrench to be used.

--
Niamh
4x4 Cymru
http://www.4x4cymru.co.uk

On or around Mon, 8 Aug 2005 02:19 +0100 (BST),
[email protected] (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk (Dougal) wrote:
>
>> Box spanner 52mm - they're fairly easy to come by and relatively cheap.
>> Don't waste your money on sockets of this size.
>
>I disagree, a socket enables a torque wrench to be used.

True - however, I think I'd be inclined to weld a plate on the top of the
box spanner with a 1/2" square hole in it, if I needed to use the torque
wrench. Not found the torque for wheel bearings to be that critical, I must
say.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"My centre is giving way, my right is in retreat; situation excellent.
I shall attack. - Marshal Foch (1851 - 1929)

My box spanner allows a 1/2" socket to be fitted...

john

On Mon, 8 Aug 2005 02:19 +0100 (BST), [email protected]
(Niamh Holding) wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk (Dougal) wrote:
>
>> Box spanner 52mm - they're fairly easy to come by and relatively cheap.
>> Don't waste your money on sockets of this size.
>
>I disagree, a socket enables a torque wrench to be used.