disco trade in price

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
P

Paul

Guest
anyone know the trade in price for a tidy N reg 1995 300 tdi manual 95000
miles. no rot in usual places, waxoyled by before'n'after last year. been on
autotrader for 3.5k not one call.

Paul.


 
Paul wrote:
> anyone know the trade in price for a tidy N reg 1995 300 tdi manual 95000
> miles. no rot in usual places, waxoyled by before'n'after last year. been on
> autotrader for 3.5k not one call.


Trade-in - £1500? Depends on what you are trading it in against.

I saw a really really nice condition P-reg up for £2999 in a local
garage the other day. You can get 300's from less than £2k both
private and trade now.

Matt
 
Paul wrote:

|| anyone know the trade in price for a tidy N reg 1995 300 tdi manual
|| 95000 miles. no rot in usual places, waxoyled by before'n'after last
|| year. been on autotrader for 3.5k not one call.
||
|| Paul.

Parkers http://www.parkers.co.uk/ gives around £3700 for a trade-in and
around £4000 for a private sale for the P reg base model (their prices don't
go back beyond that), so I would have thought that £3500 wasn't far out.
Trouble is, there are an awful lot of them about these days, as I found when
I traded mine in at the end of last year. Things to check:

o Autotrader is a national publication - there might be no-one near you
interested, perhaps try a local publication?
o Poor response to ads is usually down to poor wording or unattractive (or
no) photo as long as the price is fair - have you called Autotrader to ask
their advice about improving the ad for next time?

--
Rich
==============================

I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.


 

"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Paul wrote:
>
> || anyone know the trade in price for a tidy N reg 1995 300 tdi manual
> || 95000 miles. no rot in usual places, waxoyled by before'n'after last
> || year. been on autotrader for 3.5k not one call.
> ||
> || Paul.
>


IMHO you should pop it on eBay, take lots of pictures and write a
comprehensive description that indicates you know your car inside and out.
Many people will buy a Land Rover on eBay if the description is right etc
and you will probably get a good price. I have sold a Disco 2, and a V8 90
on eBay and got top money for them.

Good luck

Andy

<Disco 2 TD5 ES Auto>


 
"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> IMHO you should pop it on eBay, take lots of pictures and write a
> comprehensive description that indicates you know your car inside and out.
> Many people will buy a Land Rover on eBay if the description is right etc
> and you will probably get a good price. I have sold a Disco 2, and a V8 90
> on eBay and got top money for them.
>
> Good luck
>
> Andy
>
> <Disco 2 TD5 ES Auto>


We got £1700 for a H reg RRC Turbo D last Sept on a Trade in. Was sorted
though, sills, Inner wings, rear arches, respray (most proffesional if I do
say so myself!) new tyres and new upper ally tailgate. May give a rough
idea, I was well chuffed.

I think the secret was when he said "What sort of price were you thinking of
for yours?". I replied "Ten grand but I'm willing to haggle" When he offered
£1700 I nearly broke his wrist.

Lee D


 
> We got £1700 for a H reg RRC Turbo D last Sept on a Trade in. Was sorted
> though, sills, Inner wings, rear arches, respray (most proffesional if I do
> say so myself!) new tyres and new upper ally tailgate. May give a rough
> idea, I was well chuffed.
>
> I think the secret was when he said "What sort of price were you thinking of
> for yours?". I replied "Ten grand but I'm willing to haggle" When he offered
> £1700 I nearly broke his wrist.
>
> Lee D


Not surprised Lee! Mind you, having seen your latest Disco photos, if
it looked anywhere near as good as that then you will always get top
money as there are so few RRC's in good condition around.

Like I said, it does depend on what you are buying - if you trade a
£1k car in against a £2k car you aren't going to get much, but if
you're trading a £1k car against a £10k car then you are going to
get more as the dealer will have more room for negotiation. Whatever
you do - you are unlikely to get the best price by trading in.

Matt
 
> >
> > Lee D

>
> Not surprised Lee! Mind you, having seen your latest Disco photos, if
> it looked anywhere near as good as that then you will always get top
> money as there are so few RRC's in good condition around.
>
> Like I said, it does depend on what you are buying - if you trade a
> £1k car in against a £2k car you aren't going to get much, but if
> you're trading a £1k car against a £10k car then you are going to
> get more as the dealer will have more room for negotiation. Whatever
> you do - you are unlikely to get the best price by trading in.


Matt's right, spent a weekend making mine look good with touch up paint and
valeting
and sold the J reg 200Tdi Disco with 235000 on the clock for 2k.
Condition is everything. Service history is a must too. Without any of that
they go for peanuts.
On the other hand I was happy to give 3200 for my P reg Disco Tdi ES with
205000 on the clock because it has full service history from new and I know
both of the two previous owners. And it happens to be in great condition....

TonyB


 
On or around Thu, 13 Jul 2006 17:52:58 +0100, "Paul" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>anyone know the trade in price for a tidy N reg 1995 300 tdi manual 95000
>miles. no rot in usual places, waxoyled by before'n'after last year. been on
>autotrader for 3.5k not one call.


I go with the eBay suggestion... from personal experience as both buyer and
seller:

[this is turning into "selling your truck on eBay 101" - ignore it if you
want]


Pictures:
take at least 20 photos and select 10-12. Make sure you show all 4 sides,
and 3 interior shots (front, middle, rear) plus under-bonnet and I reckon a
shot of the dash showing the mileage is a good idea. That leaves you 2 or 3
shots left over which you use for detail shots of any problem areas. If
you're stating, for example, "small patch of rust on rear wheel arch" then
take a close-up of it with something in the picture to give scale. By the
same token you can take a shot of anything good, like "recent pro repair to
rust on wheelarch" with a closeup of it all shiny and nice.

Description:
Make sure to include *all* the details. it's not enough to say "good
engine." describe fully, make sure you list any mods or repairs (e.g.
"recently had track rod ends replaced for MOT" or "cambelt changed 3000
miles ago"). Avoid loud showy coloured capitals, I for one am immediately
suspicious of them. List anything you can think of, like "rear fold-up
seats with original lap belts". Don't assume that buyers know *anything*.
It's not too silly to list actual tread depth on tyres, or to list the
approximate mileage they've done.

Pricing and Reserve:
There's a good argument for starting under 100 notes (lower listing fees)
and not putting a reserve on. If you do put a reserve on, don't put a
buy-it-now on as well - it puts people off. They see your listing with BiN
at 5000 quid and reserve not met and assume that the reserve is set at about
4500, so they don't bother. Personally, I do put a reserve on vehicles just
in case, although in recent months I've seen very few really big bargains on
what I've watched, so I reckon there's some truth in the thing that it's
fairly safe not to bother with a reserve, just I lack the nerve to do so...

Setting reserve:
Study the market on eBay for similar vehicles for a few days and see what
the bidding goes to, which ones sell and which ones don't make reserve. Your
reserve price is one of the following: 1) The absolute minimum you'll sell
for, or 2) The amount that similar vehicles have been bid to recently. Which
it is depends on how badly you want the vehicle moved on. If you need it
gone this week, then you choose the latter as that will likely get it sold.
If you've a mind to sell it but aren't bothered if it hangs around for a
month or two, try a higher reserve. But too high a reserve will reduce
bidding: people coming in towards the end of the auction may not bother if
the bidding hasn't hit reserve and has almost reached their personal
maximum.


Here's a recent one of mine to look at:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290003248471

which sold for a reasonably good price based on what other, similar vehicles
had been going for. not long ago 2 similar ones were bid to about 1650 and
didn't make reserve. Mine had a reserve of 1600. Once they hit reserve,
people know they can actually win it, and thet seems to revive the interest.

You can drop the reserve during the auction but there are limitations, so
check first.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Blue: The sky is blue for a reason. Blue light is a source of strength
and harmony in the cosmos. Create a blue light in your life by
telephoning the police
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 09:22:07 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Here's a recent one of mine to look at:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290003248471
>


hey Austin, i notice you have lots of bike hubs on ebay. you dont have
any non-geared sturmey-archer dynohubs (or similar) knocking about
that you want to shift cheaply do you?
(or alternatively any suggestions on how i can reduce the turning
resistance of the magnetic bits slightly on my current hub which was a
geared one till i stripped the gears out to make it straight
through...)
 
Can we please write in English - straight over my head.

Andy


"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 09:22:07 +0100, Austin Shackles
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Here's a recent one of mine to look at:
>>
>>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290003248471
>>

>
> hey Austin, i notice you have lots of bike hubs on ebay. you dont have
> any non-geared sturmey-archer dynohubs (or similar) knocking about
> that you want to shift cheaply do you?
> (or alternatively any suggestions on how i can reduce the turning
> resistance of the magnetic bits slightly on my current hub which was a
> geared one till i stripped the gears out to make it straight
> through...)



 
On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 23:20:12 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Can we please write in English - straight over my head.
>

Austin should understand! :)

I've been trying to build a wind turbine out of a dynamo bike hub,
however there is too much resistance (from the magnetic bits) on my
current prototype and it wont spin up.
I am going to try a different blade design next and hopefully that
will give me more torque and let it spin up.

 
On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 01:01:48 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 23:20:12 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Can we please write in English - straight over my head.
>>

>Austin should understand! :)
>
>I've been trying to build a wind turbine out of a dynamo bike hub,
>however there is too much resistance (from the magnetic bits) on my
>current prototype and it wont spin up.
>I am going to try a different blade design next and hopefully that
>will give me more torque and let it spin up.


You've got at least three choices haven't you? Put more blades in,
increases torque but lowers wind capture efficiency, make blades
longer or change pitch but that changes rotation speed or do it
electrically by leaving the output either shorted or open circuit till
it has spun up. Or is the "cogging" related to the iron in the
armature?

AJH

 
On or around Fri, 14 Jul 2006 14:33:37 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 09:22:07 +0100, Austin Shackles
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Here's a recent one of mine to look at:
>>
>>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290003248471
>>

>
>hey Austin, i notice you have lots of bike hubs on ebay. you dont have
>any non-geared sturmey-archer dynohubs (or similar) knocking about
>that you want to shift cheaply do you?
>(or alternatively any suggestions on how i can reduce the turning
>resistance of the magnetic bits slightly on my current hub which was a
>geared one till i stripped the gears out to make it straight
>through...)


Do you still want it to generate? if not, you can strip the stator out of
it.

less resistance when it's not generating, so if it's not required to
generate, make sure there's no electrical connection.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"It is a characteristic of the human mind to hate the man one has injured"
Tacitus (c.55 - c.117) Agricola, 45
 
On or around Sat, 15 Jul 2006 01:01:48 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 23:20:12 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Can we please write in English - straight over my head.
>>

>Austin should understand! :)
>
>I've been trying to build a wind turbine out of a dynamo bike hub,
>however there is too much resistance (from the magnetic bits) on my
>current prototype and it wont spin up.
>I am going to try a different blade design next and hopefully that
>will give me more torque and let it spin up.


yeah, bigger blades or better blades. The generator only makes 6W...

will it spin if not connected electrically?

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"It is a characteristic of the human mind to hate the man one has injured"
Tacitus (c.55 - c.117) Agricola, 45
 
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:34:19 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Do you still want it to generate? if not, you can strip the stator out of
>it.


yeah, the generation is the point of it! :)

a new prop made out of bits of landrover and 101 off cuts is now under
construction!


 
On or around Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:38:50 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:34:19 +0100, Austin Shackles
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Do you still want it to generate? if not, you can strip the stator out of
>>it.

>
>yeah, the generation is the point of it! :)
>
>a new prop made out of bits of landrover and 101 off cuts is now under
>construction!


ah, I see.

frankly, I've never thought the dynohub would be worth the effort - although
being a simple alternator, you ought to be able to get 12V from it and maybe
use it as a trickle charger.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"For millions of years, mankind lived just like the animals. Then
something happened which unleashed the power of our imagination -
we learned to talk." Pink Floyd (1994)
 
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 19:46:58 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On or around Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:38:50 +0100, Tom Woods
><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:34:19 +0100, Austin Shackles
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Do you still want it to generate? if not, you can strip the stator out of
>>>it.

>>
>>yeah, the generation is the point of it! :)
>>
>>a new prop made out of bits of landrover and 101 off cuts is now under
>>construction!

>
>ah, I see.
>
>frankly, I've never thought the dynohub would be worth the effort - although
>being a simple alternator, you ought to be able to get 12V from it and maybe
>use it as a trickle charger.


apparently it will easily make more than 12v, hence why it has a
reputation for blowing bulbs when on a bike! (i can get 60v ac
spinning it off an electric motor!)

Im only using it cos i already have one. My wind turbine has so far
cost me £3 for a bike hub (to mount the whole thing on), £3 for a
length of drainpipe for prop number one, and 18p for the AC-DC
conversion jobber from maplins. :)
 
On or around Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:14:33 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 19:46:58 +0100, Austin Shackles
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On or around Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:38:50 +0100, Tom Woods
>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>>On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:34:19 +0100, Austin Shackles
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Do you still want it to generate? if not, you can strip the stator out of
>>>>it.
>>>
>>>yeah, the generation is the point of it! :)
>>>
>>>a new prop made out of bits of landrover and 101 off cuts is now under
>>>construction!

>>
>>ah, I see.
>>
>>frankly, I've never thought the dynohub would be worth the effort - although
>>being a simple alternator, you ought to be able to get 12V from it and maybe
>>use it as a trickle charger.

>
>apparently it will easily make more than 12v, hence why it has a
>reputation for blowing bulbs when on a bike! (i can get 60v ac
>spinning it off an electric motor!)
>
>Im only using it cos i already have one. My wind turbine has so far
>cost me £3 for a bike hub (to mount the whole thing on), £3 for a
>length of drainpipe for prop number one, and 18p for the AC-DC
>conversion jobber from maplins. :)


fair enough. but the design output of the dynohub is 3W, remember. so
although you get increased voltage, you won't much actual power.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Brevis esse laboro, Obscurus fio" (it is when I struggle to be
brief that I become obscure) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Ars Poetica, 25
 
Back
Top