P38A Diesel Engine Change with Manual Transmission

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tomcat59alan said:
The half that bolts to the gearbox is internal bolted.I remember owning a Vauxhall Cresta and you could unbolt the gearbox from the bellhousing and remove a pressed steel plate from the bottom of the bellhousing to replace the clutch. The gearbox was tiny, 3 speed column change.
Click to expand...

The manual v8 bell-housing has an access plate.
 
tomcat59alan said:
The bellhousing on the manual is in two pieces,one is bolted to the gearbox the other to the engine and they can be separated, couldn't wait until tomorrow to check my memory. :D Handy having spares in the garage.
Click to expand...

That's right because usually you leave the front part containing the clutch attached to the engine and just unbolt and pull the gearbox complete with shaft backwards.
 
Last edited:
kds said:
Leave the box in, getting engine out is the easy bit, getting it back in on to the box and engine mounts is another matter I had to remove the mount from the engine on one side to get every thing to line up but I did do the job by my self no help.
Click to expand...
Make up a couple of long studs & screw these into a couple of the bolt holes at the rear of the engine.
When you refit the engine these go into the appropriate holes on the bellhousing & help line everything up without doing a balancing act on the input shaft.
Once it's together & you've got a couple of bolts in remove the studs & fit the rest of the bolts.
Make life so much easier.
You can either use threaded rod or preferably a long bolt with its head chopped off. The latter are less likely to bend. Cut a slot in the end so you can use a screwdriver to help remove them.
Also made a set for LT230 transfer box removal/refit. Again, makes life easier & reduces the risk of the shaft damaging the seal & cost a lot less than the ones LR sells as a 'special tool'.
 
Thanks guys for all your help, looks like just take the engine out with clutch plate intact and change it, leave gearbox in?
 
Ratae said:
Make up a couple of long studs & screw these into a couple of the bolt holes at the rear of the engine.
When you refit the engine these go into the appropriate holes on the bellhousing & help line everything up without doing a balancing act on the input shaft.
Once it's together & you've got a couple of bolts in remove the studs & fit the rest of the bolts.
Make life so much easier.
You can either use threaded rod or preferably a long bolt with its head chopped off. The latter are less likely to bend. Cut a slot in the end so you can use a screwdriver to help remove them.
Also made a set for LT230 transfer box removal/refit. Again, makes life easier & reduces the risk of the shaft damaging the seal & cost a lot less than the ones LR sells as a 'special tool'.
Click to expand...
Been doing the long studs thing for years @Ratae but it might help @Lukas018 , last time was on a friends little Seat hottest day of the year last year when took box off in his front garden and bleeding freezing about six weeks ago when he found a replacement box !
 
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