Defender TD5 Door Hinge Bolt Size?

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bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
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South London/North Kent
Afternoon,

My mirror brackets are looking rather tatty + I'd like to repair some rust/sound proof the doors. Anyone know what size the door hinge bolts are? Ideally would like to use either stainless Torx or Allen Hex Heads.

Thanks :)
 
You need counter sunk bolts.
These were available in stainless steel when I rebuilt my tratter 14 yrs ago but were pricey.
I got some SS countersunk Allen key bolts from a local fixings supplier which worked out much cheaper. The heads wouldn't fit inside the hinge recess though:rolleyes:.
Didn't take long to reduce the head size on the bench grinder though, so all was well.
1486991587863-25515206.jpg
 
Cheers! I just realised that... I found some nice looking black countersunk torx heads but only in M8x50 or M8x60 :confused: So going to pull a bolt out this eve and see which would fit better. Only local fixings place here is bloody Toolstation, so bag of 100 or nothing, I tend to buy bits like this off ebay.
 
I had to get mine special order iirc.
I just got the correct amount of the longest hinge bolt and cut the others to suit. I also seem to recall that I couldn't get bolts the correct length of the longest hinge bolt so they were all too long and all needed cutting down.
Memory is foggy though!
Have you priced up a proper SS kit to compare? Prices might have come down? I remember wanting to use SS caliper pistons 14yrs ago as well but they were very expensive so used normal ones
Just replaced all the pistons again but with SS ones cos they are cheap as chips now.
 
10 SS Torx for £7.50
20 12.9 Black Socket Heads £4.55

I'll double check tonight as I only want to pull the door off from the door side, not the bulkhead side. The idea being to attempt to keep the door in its original position! They all close 8/10 times on the first try!
 
I used generic 8mm countersunk Allen screws on mine, but as above I had to reduce the diameter of the heads to fit the recesses in the hinges. The ones into the A post can be a bit longer as there's plenty of room inside. The ones in the door need to be sized quite precisely or they'll tend to push the door trim panel off if they're too long. Might be a good idea to get some new M8 clip-on captive nuts for the A post at the same time. Oh, and squirt some Dinitrol or the rustproofer of your choice inside the A post whilst the hinges are off.
 
They're just M8 nuts on the inside of the door, so you need to have the door open to get at them with a spanner. So it's easier to wedge the door in position with a bit of cardboard between it and the sill and then screw the hinge to the A post.
 
ahhhh just saw YRM have all the sizes listed on their website! SS torx. Also just realised me being the donut that I am if I just replace the door - hinge bolts I wont have matching bolts! Which isnt acceptable!

So new plan, remove the hinges from the doors and leave the hinges on the bulkhead/pillar. Remove one hinge/bulkhead bolt at a time, so there's always one bolt fitted, swing hinge out the way and spray rust agent in there, replace bolts. Hopefully that should keep all the doors aligned... but then I can't replace the captives! :confused::confused::confused:

May have to save some more cash as I will want to strip the doors, clean em up, repair if required, seal and soundproof.
 
Last edited:
If it's anything like mine the captive nuts will liberate themselves anyway. So it might turn into a longer and more involved job anyway. Just wedge a bit of cardboard under the door while you do the hinge screws up, it'll be fine.
 
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